The World at Your Fingertips

Split, Croatia

Split, Croatia.

Because of its ideal climate, with 2,800 hours of sunlight each year, local people have a few nicknames for Split: "The most beautiful city in the world" and "Mediterranean flower".

Besides the bell tower of St. Duje, the symbols of city are the Dalmatian dog and a donkey. Locals have a high regard for the donkey because of its past indispensable place in field work and transport across the Dalmatian mountains.

Winters in Split are generally mild, with temperatures above 0°C, but despite the popular saying that the city experiences snowfall once every 30 years, there is actually at least one snowy day nearly every winter, usually in January or early February. If you find yourself in Split on a day with significant snowfall, expect serious traffic disruption.

Tourist information

• TIC Riva (Tourist Information Centre), Obala Hrv. narodnog preporoda 9.

• TIC Peristil (Tourist Information Centre), Peristil bb (at a tiny former chapel).

Get in

By plane

• Zračna luka Split (Split Airport SPU) (approx. 25 km west of Split, 5 km east of Trogir). It is, after Zagreb Airport, the most important in Croatia. Scheduled services fly to major European cities, with summer charter flights from more. The airport is about 25 km west from Split, near the city of Trogir. It has free WiFi internet.

Several airlines operate between Split and Belgrade, for example Croatia Airlines or Air Serbia (former Jat Airways). If you are seated next to the window, you can catch a magnificent glimpse of Sarajevo from 6,500 m (21,000 feet).

Ground transportation

• Pleso prijevoz (Shuttle bus to Split) (from the terminal exit follow to the left – to the bus stop; from the city departures are from the main bus station AK Split, platform No.1), +385 21 203-119. The service run by the Pleso prijevoz. A journey lasts approx 1/2 hour. Bus departures from Split are scheduled (check for Airport shuttle bus) between 05:00-19:00 with interval 30-60 min. From the airport departures are scheduled to 20-30 min. after arrival of a regular flight (even if a plane is delayed). So beware if you're flying by a charter flight! 30 kn or 5 euros.

• Shuttle to Trogir and Marine Kaštela. Pleso prijevoz also provides shuttle services to Trogir and Marine Kaštela. 20 kn.

• Prijevoz putnika Žele. Apr-Sep. Seasonal shuttles to/from Split main bus station. 30 kn.

• Bus #37 (the stop is just outside of the airport – walk through the parking lot straight south. The nearest stop is for direction towards Trogir. The stop towards Split is at the other side of the road). This bus runs between Split and Trogir mostly every 30 min. In Split the line terminates at the bus hub Sukoišan, which is a bit out of the centre and the port. So, here you'd change to bus 9 or 10, or just walk about a kilometre along the major road that runs by the bus stop (stops for buses 9 and 10 are also by this road). You can download a printable schedule . It takes 50 min to reach Split and 10 min. -- Trogir. Single to Split 17 kn; to Trogir 13 kn (tickets are bought from the bus driver).

• Taxi (Just turn left when you exit the terminal and you're on the taxi stand). If the taxi does not have a meter or the driver wishes to negotiate the price it's best to take the next car. The price to Split is about 350 kn, a ride takes less than 30 minutes; to Trogir 100 kn.

There are also plenty of options for pre-booked transfers. A ride to the city centre could cost about €32.

By bus

Split main bus station is located at the eastern end of Riva, close to the port:

• Autobusni kolodvor Split (AK Split). Frequent buses run to and from Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Sibenik, Zadar, Rijeka etc. There are also regular buses to and from Mostar and Sarajevo (Bosnia and Herzegovina) (210 kn), Belgrade (Serbia), Trieste (Italy) and major cities of Germany and Austria and even Hungary.

In the summer season there are more lines than off-season, for example in June–July-August, daily night buses to Banja Luka and Gradiska, north of Bosnia, as well as buses to Niš, Serbia twice a week.

On most intercity buses you pay a fee for luggage. This fee of about €0.5-1 per piece of luggage is paid to the driver upon boarding. Some drivers are rather picky about being paid in exact change in the correct currency (sometimes a local currency, at other instances requesting to be paid in euros) and sometimes also refuse to be paid in too small coins. So keep some change ready.

For destinations around Split-Dalmatia County (Splitsko-dalmatinska županija) like Trogir and Solin check the bus hub Sukoišan.

Eurobusways runs daily buses from door to door to Split from Budapest.

By boat

Long distance ferries run three times a week across the Adriatic to and from Ancona and Pescara (Italy) with terminals at the Passenger port. There is also a large ferry that runs twice a week up and down the coast between Dubrovnik and Rijeka, stopping off at a couple of islands along the way. Split is the main hub for local boats and hydrofoils in Central Dalmatia. Several a day run to and from Brac, Hvar, Solta, Vis, Korčula and Lastovo.

The major operators here are:

• Jadrolinija. State-owned sea shipping company. They have regular lines connecting the Croatian shore to its islands and with Italy.

• SNAV. Italian sea shipping company with ferries from Ancona to and from Split. Tickets starting at €30 for a single crossing without cabin.

• Blue Line International. Sea shipping company that operates between Croatia and Italy.

By train

• Kolodvor Split (Railway station), Domagojeva obala 9 (at the port, 400 m from the city centre). 06:15-22:15. Trains run between Split and Zagreb, Split and Perković (where you can change for Šibenik). Timetables can be found from Croatian Railways website. Trains are generally slower than buses in Croatia, the price is approximately similar. Left luggage lockers are available at the station.

Split train station is right in the city centre, it is a few minutes walk from the port and from the old town. Expect very friendly grannies to be waiting with signs saying "Sobe" (rooms) at all arrivals and they will jump on anyone with a backpack. The train station is rather basic, because train travel is not much used to Split.

Trains to Perković run through a picturesque valley/village of Primorski Dolac depart 5 times a day and stop in every station taking 1 hr to do the journey. This is a very picturesque journey to make, and although Perković is simply a collection of houses you could get off and have a coffee or go for a walk in the hills before returning to Split. Connecting Trains leave Perković for Šibenik several times a day, and should be marked on the timetable in Split station.

Get around

Central Split is quite compact and most sights can be easily seen and best experienced on foot, but there are frequent local buses to outlying attractions and the airport.

By bus

Public transit is organized by Promet. Most of the city buses in Split are new, but some are very old and dilapidated.

• Kolodvor Sukoišan. It is the main hub for local buses as well as for destinations around Split-Dalmatia county (Splitsko-dalmatinska županija) like Trogir and Solin.

Tickets: single – 9 kn (from a bus driver – 11 kn), double journey ticket (Pojedinačna karta za dva putovanja) - 18 kn, Set of double journey ticket starting from 5 - 17 kn each ticket; Monthly ticket ('mjesečna pokazna karta') - 290 kn. Available at kiosks across the city or from a bus driver (only single-journey), tickets must be validated on board by a yellow machine or given to the driver for validation.

By bike

Rent a bike and enjoy beautiful biking along Split's waterfront (Riva), continue to Marjan hill (approximately 7 km), climb to the top of the hill for great view on the Split town and surrounding islands. You can bike to the east side, along the coast to nearby village of Stobrec. Another great option from Split is to take a day tour to nearby islands of Solta, Brac, Hvar or Vis. You can take the bike on a regular ferry (they leave approximately every couple of hours in the summer season) and bike along quite roads and charming villages, explore great beaches and restaurants and return in the evening to Split!

Older but rideable mountain bikes are available for 15 kn/hour (March 2012) at the northern entrance to Marjan hill (near Mandalinski put).

By boat

Speed taxi boat is an excellent solution for fast transportation of passengers on whole Adriatic. Said service is available trough Dalmatia-express for direct transportation from airport Split to Split Riva or from Split Riva to Dalmatia islands.

If you don't know how to sail, there are a few companies that offer skippered charters in the area. If you are seeking something affordable, Antlos enables you to book boat holidays with local Skippers that offer trips around Split's coastline and visits to the neighbouring islands and if you're looking for something upmarket, there are many superyacht charter agencies such as Burgess Yachts, Navis Yacht Charter and Camper and Nicholsons.

By train

Tthere is a local suburban railway service between Split and Kaštel Stari at the shore of Kaštelanski Zaljev (Kastelanski bay).

What to See in Split

Diocletian's Palace

The historic centre of Split is built around the remains of this Roman palace. You only need to wander around to experience it but you can also pay to visit the excavated remains of the basement of the palace. The palace has well preserved main streets cardo and decumanus. Roman palace is enriched with some gothic and reinassance buildings which makes a perfect match. Palace has 4 monumental gates Porta Aurea (Zlatna vrata, Golden gate), Porta Argenta (Srebrna vrata, Silver gate), Porta Ferrea (Željezna vrata, Iron gate) and Porta Aenea (Mjedena vrata). It is probably the best preserved Roman palace in the world.

Diocletian's Palace, Split, Croatia.

• Peristylium (Peristil square). Main square of Diocletian's palace with well preserved Roman architecture.

Peristil square.

• Katedrala sv. Duje (St. Duje's cathedral). Built around 305 AD as a mausoleum of Roman emperor Diocletian's (the oldest cathedral building in the world). The cathedral is also a very beautiful mixture of Roman temple and Catholic church. It also has a beautiful belltower which provides you a great panoramic view of Split, nearby islands and Marjan hill.

• Jupiter temple (Cathedral's baptistry). Ancient Roman temple which became St. John's church. 5 kn.

• Getski vrtal, Ul. Dominisova. is the smallest park in Split, situated in the Diocletian's palace at the Dominisova street (Marko Antonio De Dominis street). In that park are beautiful traditional Dalmatian tiramolas. During the summer these are full of clothes drying in the sunshine. In every guidebook about Split you have pictures from the Getski vrtal. It is the location of a 500-year-old stone house which was destroyed during World War II.

• Two original Egyptian sphinxes - One is located on Peristil square, and the other in front of Jupiter's temple or St. John's church. They were brought from Egypt by Roman emperor Diocletian.

Egyptian sphinx.

Beyond the Diocletian's Palace

• Riva is the main city promenade. Since 2007, Riva has a new, modern appearance, which isn't up to the taste of some who used to it's authentic look.

• Marjan - a hill situated on the west of Split. Marjan is an oasis for many people who look for a natural stress relief, a great place for long walks, jogging, and bike rides. Marjan's peak, Telegrin is 174 m high and gives a wonderful panoramic view of Split. South cliffs are popular within alpine climbers. St. Nicholas church is situated on the east of Marjan, on its south side are beautiful St. Jeronimus church and "Gospe od Betlema" church (Madonna of Betlehem). House building is strictly forbidden in order to save Marjan - the lungs of Split.

• Varoš - one of the oldest parts of town. A place where most of the city peasants and fishermen lived. Charming streets and beautiful small houses.

• Galerija Meštrović. The gallery contains works of Ivan Meštrović, famous Croatian sculptor.

Galerija Meštrović.

• Archaeological Museum. The oldest museum in Croatia (1820), about 20 min walk north of the old town (entry 20 kn). Many artifacts and monuments from Roman colonies Salona and Narona.

Archaeological Museum.

• Old graveyards. Sustipan and old Jewish cemetery.

What to Do in Split

• Split city beach (Continue south past the busstation, follow the road which goes by the tracks, and from the bridge over the tracks you can take a stairs down to the beach). If you have a longer stop-over in Split, 5 mins south of the passenger terminal and the train and bus stations lies Split's city beach where you can take a plunge in the Adriatic. free.

• Sunbathe and swim on the beach at Bačvice. To reach this beach walk south along the waterfront from the bus station and then follow the road that crosses the railway line. There are many cafes and places to eat ice cream. This is certainly not the best beach in Croatia (it is packed solid most of summer), but it will give you a feeling of 'real' Croatia as the vast majority of people who go there are from Split. There are also beaches around hill Marjan. Most popular are Kaštelet, Kašjuni and beautiful pine forest beach Bene. On Bene beach there is a restaurant and a recreation centre. Bus No. 12 travels there.

• Climb the campanile bell tower next to the palace mausoleum. The stairs cling to the inside of the tower, and in places the steps cross the large open window spaces. The ascent is certainly not for those with vertigo, but the views from the top are marvelous. It costs 10 kn to go up the bell tower.

• The historic core of Split with Diocletian palace is among the first urban complexes to enter the list of the UNESCO world heritage in year 1979. Most probably this one of a kind Imperial Palace was built from 298-305 AD and is one of the most significant original structures of the period mostly because so much of it has been preserved. Later this Palace contributed to the broadening of the town because as the city evolved beyond its walls. The unique substructure halls were newley explored and each year more of them are opened to the public. Some have fascinating artefacts on display. May - Oct 10:00-19:00. Nov-Apr, opens at 11:00, duration 90 min. In English language. Starts in front of the tourist info centre, please arrive 15 min before tour is due to commence.

• Green Market (Pazar). Split's Pazar is the place to go for a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds and ends. Lots of local colour and excitement.

• Picigin, Bačvice. Traditional beach game with a small ball (Bačvice beach). In summer every year there is a world championship in picigin.

• Grgur Ninski. It is said that if you touch the big toe of the statue and make a wish your wish will come true.

• Poljud stadium. Poljud stadium known to locals as "Poljudska Ljepotica" (Poljud Beauty")is a second largest stadium in Croatia and has a capacity of 36,000 people. The stadium was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterranean Games and was oficially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was avowed fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud HNK Hajduk Split. By far the most important and revered sports team in Dalmatia, a dedicated fanbase around the world has followed Hajduk throughout the team's history.

There are numerous anecdotes about Hajduk never played without at least some of their loyal fans in the stands, the Torcida. It is the oldest supporters group in Europe. If you are going to visit some match do not go on north part, which is the cheapest one, that part is reserved for Torcida.

• Seabob. Explore some beaches above or below water with a SEABOB.

Sailing

There are lots of companies running boats, such as Busabout, Topdeck and Contiki.

The majority of sailing charters start from the city of Split. There are many charter agencies where you can charter a sailing or motor yacht which are based in Split. Most of them operate from ACI marina Split, marina Zenta or marina Spinut. There are also many charter agencies based in marina Kastela which is based in the vicinity of Split.

When you charter a yacht through a charter agency and arrive to the designated marina there are a few things that need to be done.

The most important thing is the yacht check in (usually Saturday around 16:00). Take your time doing yacht check in. Familiarise yourself with the chartered yacht and with the yacht equipment. The rule of thumb is the more time you take for the yacht check in, the less time you will need for the yacht check out.

After that you have to do the shopping for the charter vacation. Don't neglect the groceries shopping because the sea is unpredictable and you don't want to get stuck on the boat without sufficient provisions of food and drink.

You can do the shopping in a marina although the prices are usually much higher there, or you can order from yacht provisioning services who usually deliver the products to the marina at no extra fee. In Jam Yacht Supply offer an online provisioning catalogue and you can order from a large selection of groceries and other products months in advance, everything you order awaits for you at the marina.

• Daily boat tours, +385 95 6129 500. Daily boat tours from Split to Hvar, Brac and other attractions such as Blue Cave, and Green Cave.

• Daily sailing tours, +385 21 717 813, e-mail: info@hvar-adventure.com. Daily sailing tours from Split to Brac, Hvar and other nearby destinations.

• Yacht charter Split, Rogač, +385 1 4882 209, e-mail: info@sailingeurope.com. 08:00-19:00. One of the most popular yacht charter spots, Split is considered by many to be the starting point to any exploration route of the central Dalmatian coast.

• Catamaran charter Split, +385 95 869 6420 , e-mail: info@catamaran-charter-split.com . Most popular way to explore islands in the Split area.

• Speed boat tours from Split, Obala Lazareta 1, +3859777447417, e-mail: info@bluecavetour.com. 07:00-23:00. Best way to visit more than 1 island in a day. Starting from the strict city center- waterfront promenade "Riva"- Right in front of the Diocletian Palace’s southern basements entrance. Day speed boat tour to the Blue cave, Hvar island, Brač island & Vis island.

• Yachting ACI Marina in Split, Uvala Baluni 8 HR-21000 Split, +385 21 398-599, e-mail: splito@aci.hr. 08:00-19:00. ACI Marina in Split is located on the left side of the bay in Split. It is purposed for touristic sailing yachts and motorboats not longer than 20 metres. Bigger boats and gullets are not allowed to anchor there - they should stay in main Split harbour. Marina is equipped with parking places, small market. GPS coordinates for sailors: N 43° 30' 155 E 16° 25' 801.

Buy

• Pazar, Stari Pazar 2. Green market with perfect fruit, vegetables and more. The best time to visit the market is Saturday morning.

• Ribarnica, Obrov 2. Fish market.

• Marmontova. Shopping street in the centre.

• Profil, Algoritam and VBZ. Bookshops with some English-language titles.

Shopping malls

• City Center One, Vukovarska 207. daily 09:00-21:00, cinema and caffe bars 09:00-23:00. Opened in 2010. 3 floors (5 garage levels) and Cineplexx cinema.

• Joker Put Brodarice 6. Opened in 2007. 50 shops on 4 floors with Tommy supermarket, DM, Hervis sports shop, Deichmann and a McDonalds. 15-20 min walk from the city center with buses stopping near the front of the centre. There is a cinema on the first floor. The top floor has fitness club, restaurant and a sky bar with an outdoor swimming pool.

Eat

The most famous local delicates is Soparnik. It originates from nearby Poljica region (formerly known as Poljička Republika or Republic of Poljica in the Middle Ages). It is a dough filled with chard and baked in the fireplace. On top comes olive oil and garlic. You can find it on Pazar (green market).

Italian influences dominate on Croatia's coast, amongst the best are; Risotto with tender white scampi or black calamari, a dish beloved by all Croatians. A wide selection of salumi, magnificent Istrian and Dalmatian hams (Dalmatinski pršut - comparable to Parma or Speck) and cheese from the island of Pag are well worth trying, as are the large varieties of excellent Croatian wines and beers.

Do not miss Dalmatian pašticada s njokama (Gnocchi).

In a world suffocating under the weight of processed foods, Croatia's coastal cuisine is unique in that most of its produce is organic.

Ćevapi or Ćevapčići (diminutive), are small grilled rolls of minced beef, pork, or lamb, or a combination of any of these three. Usually served with chopped onions, Kajmak (similar to clotted cream) or Ajvar (a relish made from bell peppers, aubergines, garlic and chilli). Ćevapi are traditional Bosnian dish and they are popular across the Balkans.

Split's eateries are to be found in a variety of settings, ranging from the romantic to the vibrant. It isn’t difficult to enjoy superb food and wine in a classical environment with good friends and/or family.

Plenty of fast food joints between the Old Town and the bus station.

• Nostromo, Kraj Svete Marije 10 (just off Marmontova). Good seafood and salad in a rather smoky ambience with friendly service. Main dish 60-200 kn.

• Picaferaj, Popovica 2 (a block W from Trg Republike). Varied menu, a couple of outside tables Main dish 55-150 kn.

• Cetina, Radunica 16, +385 21 482 243. Varied menu including local specialities, good value, friendly service (English spoken), no credit cards. Main dish 50-100 kn.

• Kod Joze, Sredmanuska 4, +385 21 347 397. The traditional family-run konoba serves tasty dishes in style. Prices very reasonable considering the quality and atmosphere. Mains 50-120 kn.

• Panchos, Nepotova 3. Good Mexican place in the land of cevapcici. Staff is friendly, the place is nice, but a bit small. Mains 20-40 kn.

• Buffet Picaferaj, popovica 2. Small side street restaurant run by a young married couple, incredible food at a very fair price. Pasta with prawns and mussels is 70 kn.

• Fino Friško, Čulića dvori 2. Because of its proximity to school, this bakery always has fresh and tasty food.

• Mala kuća, Domovinskog rata 27d, Put firula 39. daily 09:00-00:00. Fast food with delicious marinated chicken grill sandwich (20 kn).

• Popaj, Pojišanska b.b., Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića b.b.. M-Th winter 08:00-00:00, summer 08:00-01:00, F-Sa winter 08:00-13:00, summer 08:00-14:00, Su winter 15:00-12 midnight, summer 15:00-01:00. The most popular fast food in Split with great pizzeta (small pizza, 10 kn) and very big ham sandwich (14 kn).

• Hajduk, Matošića 4. Good ice cream in the old town at 8 kn.

• Pizzeria Bakra, Radovanova 2. 10:00-23:00. Definitely one of the best pizza in town, baked on fireplace.

• Biser Orijenta, Bihaćka 2a (top floor of Lavčević building). 11:30-00:00. Good "European Chinese" cuisine. Not too popular among the locals, but the prices are fair and the service is friendly. Mains 50-70 kn, duck and seafood dishes up to 120 kn.

• Konoba Marjan, Senjska, 1, +385 98 9346848. Risottos, pasticada (marinaded veal cooked in sauce), and excellent fish. Prices are very reasonable and the staff very friendly. English spoken.

• Fife, Trumbiceva obala 11 (across the bay from the ferry terminal). Lively and busy restaurant with lots of seating and deliciously large Croatian dishes. Mains 40-80 kn.

• Kod Sfinge Vanevropske Zviri, Ulica Kraj Svetog Ivana 2 (Inside Diocletian's Palace, inbetween Jupiter's temple and Peristil), +385 99 443 8666. A Konoba/Trattoria. Good Dalmatian specialties: Pašticada, Paški sir, etc. Also proposes good seafood catch of the day, but sometimes unavailable. Seems to be operated by a single family: The waiters knows very well the menu! Pašticada for 150 kn.

Drink

Dalmatia is well known for its world class wines, but when in Split it is a must to try soda drinks called Pipi and Orela, produced by local beverage manufacturer Dalmacijavino.

Lots of outdoor cafés are to be found along the Riva seafront.

• St Riva (Riva seafront). Has an upper story that overlooks the promenade. 20 kn a pint.

• Shook, Mihovilova sirina 4 (In the heart of Old Town). Chill out cafe/bar with electronic beat in a busy passageway. 15 kn a pint.

• Gaga Bar (tucked away in a corner, just off Narodni Trg). Cosy atmosphere, long list of cocktails, latin music. Ask for a bill, because one round is 100 kn, and then second one (the same one) may be 150 kn. Atmosphere is nice, but the waiters are not. More tourists than locals. Pint 20 kn, cocktails 20-35 kn.

• Tonik Juice Bar, Ban Mladenova 5 (one block west of Riva's end). Fresh made juices, smoothies and coffee. Smoothie 30 kn.

• Buffet Picaferaj, Popovica 2. A small restaurant on a side street that serves fresh seafood dishes. Run by a young married couple. Pasta with fresh prawns and mussels is 70 kn.

• Na kantunu, Dominisova 9 (within the Diocletian palace). After 3 rounds waiter will bring traditional rakija with honey (medica)-nice and strong. Supporters of Hajduk Split are there, so when there is a match in Split it may become too crowded. It is probable the smallest bar in Split with 8 tables inside in a 15 m² space. Great atmosphere and a cappuccino is 8 kn. In front of the cafe bar there are few tables where you can sit if the weather is nice. Karlovačko beer only 12 kn a pint, Velebitsko beer is 15 kn a pint.

Nightclubs

There are many clubs on Bačvice beach.

• Vanilla Club, Poljudsko šetalište b.b.. Fancy place by the swimming pool with popular domestic and foreign music.

• Hemingway Bar, VIII Mediteranskih igara 5. Extremely fancy club.

• Quasimodo, Gundulićeva 26. Rock and underground music. Mostly full with local alternatives.

Sleep

There is a wide variety of private accommodation available in Split, as well as a few hostels. Some of the best prices can probably be obtained by going to the bus station or ferry terminal and haggling with the many people there offering accommodation - even fairly late at night, there are still many people offering beds.

Budget

Hostels

• Adria Hostel, Bajnice (near the main coastal road between Split and Omis, about 12 km south of Split. Take bus #60 or contact the hostel to arrange pickup), +49 177 7368595, +385 21 873028, e-mail: info@hostel-adria.com. Check-in: 11:00, check-out: 09:30. Right next to the Adriatic Sea. Dorm bed: €15-25; bed in private room: €18-28.

• Al's Place, Petra Kružića 10 (inside the city walls), +385 98 918 2923, e-mail: info@hostelsplit.com. A great hostel (and the first in Split) run by a British expat named Al, a guy who is passionate about travel and wants his guests to get the most from their stay in Split. He even goes out for a beer with guests sometimes. The hostel is in an 800-year old stone house inside the city walls, small and cozy with only 12 beds in 2 en suite rooms. There is also kitchen (for guests), and common area, A/C, and laundry. Dorm bed: 110-130 kn.

• CroParadise Split Hostel, Culica Dvori 31. LCD televisions and computers with free internet access in every room. Dorm bed: from 70 kn.

• Guesthouse Split, Lovretska 1 (next to the archeological museum). Free WiFi, private rooms available dorm bed €13-18.

• Hostel Split Mediterranean House, Vukasoviceva 21, +385 98 987 1312. The hostel has been built into an old stone house just outside of the historical centre. Free wifi. Dorm bed: 80 kn (low season).

• Old Town Hostel, Dominisova 3, +385 91 920 1539, e-mail: info@oldtownsplit.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Free wifi, 1 shared computer, flat screen TV with a collection of movies.

• Pletkovic Hostel, Poljana Kneza Trpmira 1.

• Silver Central Hostel, 1 Kralja Tomislava. Dorm bed: 110-180 kn.

• SilverGate Hostel, Hrvojeva 6 (A 5 min walk from the train/bus/ferry terminals), +385 21 322 857, e-mail: silvergatehostel@gmail.com.

• Situs Hostel, Starčevićeva 3. Dorm bed: 110-150 kn.

Splurge

• Guesthouse Vrlic, Držićeva 7, +385 99 2152 352. US$76-125.

• Hotel Atrium, Domovinskog rata 49a, +385 21 20 0000.

• Hotel Dalmina, Kopilica 5, +385 21 35 00 00.

• Hotel Globo, Lovretska 18, +385 21 481 111. US$140-228.

• Hotel Luxe (Hotel Luxe Split), Kralja Zvonimira 6, +385 21 314 444. US$110-221.

• Hotel Park, Hatzeov perivoj 3, +385 21 406 400.

• Hotel Peristil, Poljana kraljice Jelene 1, +385 21 329 070.

• Hotel San Antonio, Grljevacka 30, Podstrana (7 km towards Dubrovnik, on the right hand side, right on the beach), +385 21 336 111, e-mail: info@hotel-sanantonio.com. 54 rooms and 3 suites. €48-95.

• Hotel Vestibul Palace, Iza vestibula 4, +385 21 329 329. US$175-263.

• Le Méridien Lav, Grljevacka, 2A, Podstrana, +385 21 500 500.

• Marmont, Zadarska 13, +385 21 308 060. US$359.

• Radisson Blu, Put Trstenika 19, +385 21 303 030. €68-171.

• Villa Varos Hotel Split, Miljenka Smoje 1, +385 21 483 469. US$75-114.

• Rva Apartments, Alijesijeva 6, +385 914 45 45 43, e-mail: info@riva-apartments.com. On the 'Riva' waterfront promenade with south-facing views of Split Bay.

Stay safe

Do not go to striptease bars because they are a tourist trap.

Connect

There are internet cafés in the old centre of the city

• Internet club Net Com P. Grgura Ninskog 9. Internet and international calls.

• Smokvina Travel Majstora Jurja 3.

There are several more Internet cafés by the harbour just north of the train station. One provides Ubuntu Linux.

• DenCall internet-Split, +385 21 345 014, e-mail: domagojeva@dencro.net. 08:09-23:00. 17 computers, connection speed: 1.5 Mbit, printing b/w, camera to CD/usb transfer, call centre, international calling cards, rent-a-bike, luggage storage.

There is free internet via WiFi in the People's Square next to the Lacoste store. Search for "Split Hotspot"

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• Salona - ancient Roman colony, one of the biggest towns of Roman Empire. It had a population of nearly 60,000 people. It was a capital of Roman province Dalmatia. Well preserved amphitheater, theater, basilica, cemetery and many other Roman buildings. Situated near town of Solin, 10-20 min bus ride from Split.

• Hvar - A day trip by boat to this island is well worth the effort. Boats leave five times a day in peak season (July–August), three times a day outside this period (a single trip cost about 42 kn to Stari Grad on Hvar). Hvar town is small but extremely attractive, with numerous large yachts moored in the harbour. If using the left luggage service ensure you thoroughly check the prices and conditions of use.

• Brač - An alternative could be the boat to the island of Brač which is just the other side of the water. Boats leave up to 10 times daily and it takes you 1 hr to Supetar. The last ferry back to Split leaves at 22:45. Try renting a bike or scooter for exploring the island. When renting, take into account that the rental service normally closes rather early but when you ask for it, they are quite flexible as most people are in Split. A return ferry ticket should cost about 70 kn and has no time restrictions within the same day.

• Šolta is another gorgeous island easily reachable by ferry from Split within an hour. It's more laid back than Hvar and less touristy than Brač, mostly frequented by Croatian tourists. Great bays, clear water, historic towns and local honey, wine and olives.

• Krka National Park - one of eight national parks in Croatia. Enjoy in beautiful waterfalls and visit old monastery on the island Visovac.

• Omiš - this little town is situated on the mouth of Cetina river and its magnificent canyon. It is ideal place for rafting and canyoning.

• Horse Club - in village called Donje Ogorje you can ride a horse in the nature. It will cost you 100 kn for one hour. There is also an option for riding and sleeping in the nature for several days.

• Makarska - a popular resort town with beautiful beaches, 60 km southeast of Split. Frequent buses (price 40-50 kn one way).

• Bosnia and Herzegovina - possible day trips by regular scheduled bus include Mostar, Međugorje, Livno, Bugojno, Ljubuški, Travnik and even Zenica. (Wikivoyage)