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Sharm el-Sheikh, Egypt

Panorama of Naama Bay, Sharm el-Sheikh, Egypt.

Sharm el-Sheikh (transliterated as Sharm ash Shaykh and popularly known simply as "Sharm") is a well-known port and resort town at the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt, popular with package holiday makers and divers. About 9,000 British tourists are in Sharm on any given day. Numbers have doubled in the last 3 years and seem set to continue to rise despite the worldwide economic situation.

Sharm El Sheikh, Egypt. Sharm el-Sheikh is sometimes called the "City of Peace", referring to the large number of international peace conferences that have been held there.

Sharm el-Sheikh is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Arab world. But there are also some very good reasons to visit it if you are not the common tourist, who likes to lie on the beach all day. It is one of the finest diving spots in the world and a trip into the desert is an unforgettable adventure.

The Sinai Peninsula is a remote desert mountain range. The rocky mountains are parted from the deep-blue sea by a flat desert strip. This combination of desert and sea is an incredible sight and makes you believe you are on a different planet.

Na'ama Bay part of the city is the center of nightlife and dining: most of Sharm's clubs, cafes, restaurants and shops are here. Sharm el Sheikh has grown into three distinct areas now, Nabq is a new area to the North of Na'ama, Old Market and Hadaba to the South of Na'amaa Bay.

Nabq Bay Nabq Bay is on a promontory overlooking the Straits of Tiran at the mouth of the Gulf of Aqaba.

Sharm el-Sheikh city has been subdivided into five areas, namely Nabq Bay, Ras Nasrani, Naama Bay, Umm Sid, and Sharm El Maya. Together with Hay el Nour, Hadaba, Rowaysat, Montazah and Shark's Bay, it forms a metropolitan area of 42 square kilometres.

Climate

Sharm El-Sheikh has an arid climate, generally warm and dry, although summer months can be humid. The best times to go to Sharm el-Sheikh, for swimming and diving, are the month of April, and from mid-October to mid-November.

The summer, from mid-May to September, is actually quite hot, and while the sea is pleasantly warm and you can enjoy long dives, it can be difficult to sunbathe and move outdoors during the day (especially in August and September).

The water temperature is always warm, although cold snaps may affect the region occasionally each winter. In winter the stay can be enjoyable, and the temperature is often sufficient for sunbathing, however, the days are quite short.

Get in

By plane. Sharm el-Sheikh Airport (IATA: SSH) (ICAO: HESH) is the largest in the Sinai and receives planeloads of charter tourists daily in the winter high season. Domestic flights from Cairo are offered by Nile Air and EgyptAir.

For departures: timetable shows only nearest 1-2 hours, makes you watch over the row of check-in desks for your flight number.

By boat. International Fast Ferries run fast boats to Hurghada on the mainland Red Sea Coast, currently running four times weekly. The ride takes 1.5 hours and costs EBP250 one-way, EGP450 return for foreigners. Warning: this ride is notoriously bumpy and prone to cancellations.

Get around

By taxi. In Sharm the taxis are generally modern models, either Hyundai or Chevrolet. Don't bother with the meter in the taxi,it probably does not work any more,they soon break due to the dust,and would work out more than the "fixed" prices anyway. Always note the drivers ID number. Don't assume they have meters. Locals tell you they don't. Make sure you have transportation waiting for you, or better yet take an airport Limo which has a fixed advertised rate inside the arrival hall at the airport.

Sharm el Sheikh airport is the worst part of Egypt for getting a reasonably priced taxi. They will ask for 150-400 LE for the 10 minute ride to Nabq. So, make sure you negotiate a rate lower than the limo advertised rate inside the arrival hall. Make sure you have Egyptian currency to pay the fare and never pay before you reach your destination making sure you only pay the pre-arranged price.

Make sure that the driver knows that you are paying in Egyptian pounds. It is highly recommended that you avoid the haggling and rip-offs by booking an airport transfer in advance with one of the various online providers - price should be around €10 (per taxi, not per person, in Jan 2013)

By bus. There are also a fleet of blue and white micro buses which are used to ferry the locals around the region. These are a most economical method of transport compared to taxis however they are not by law allowed to accept tourists.

By minibus. It can be cheaper and more convenient to hire a private minibus; Sharm-Taba €75, Sharm-Dahab €35 (price are per minibus, not per person, correct as of Jan 2013).

See

• Sharm Old Town. Hail a taxi or local bus to take you to the Sharm Old Town, ask the driver for the old market. This is a much different experience for tourists staying in the Na'ama Bay area. Most of Sharm is less than 25 years old so don't expect a Morrocan style 'Souk' experience! Ignoring the touts outside each shop make a better experience, unless you are serious about buying. Stay strong in you determination of what to pay.

• Na'ama Bay is the tourist center of Sharm El Sheikh, an unusual sight and a bit exotic for a westerner are huge fans pumping fresh air and water to street cafes and terraces near hotels. Na’ama Bay is basically a formation of a large number of hotels and spas, sharing the same beach line.

• Al-Mostafa Mosque, Al Rewaysat Rd. The largest mosque in Sharm el-Sheikh. Has a small shop with Islamic books, tours are offered from time to time.

• Al Sahaba Mosque (In Old market). After years of construction, this large mosque located in old market is now completed. Built in an Ottoman architectural style, it could easily be mistaken for having been there for hundreds of years.

• El-Samaeyeen Cathedral. A Coptic church, beautifully decorated with frescoes depicting bible verses. Most often, there will be a guide that can be a tour.

• A visit to the desert is highly recommended. Various trips to the Bedouins, the beautiful Coloured Canyon, White Canyon , quad bike and buggy safari tours. The more adventurous should try to find a private guide, who takes them for a few days into the mountain desert with a camel. You will walk through hidden valleys, rest at secret oasis and during the night you sleep under a breathtaking firmament.

• Boat and snorkeling trips to the beautiful snorkeling sites in Ras Mohammed National Park and Tiran Island. For non- swimmers, the submarine or glass bottom boat is an ideal alternative to discover the underwater world of the Red Sea .

• Cultural excursions in Sinai like Saint Catherine's Monastery and Mount Sinai, where, according to tradition, the God spoke to the prophet Moses. Excursions from Sharm El Sheikh to Cairo, where the famous three pyramids, the Sphinx and the Egyptian National Museum, or to Luxor, the famous capital of ancient Egypt. As well as excursions to sightseeing in the neighboring countries like Petra or Jerusalem.

• Day visit to Dahab. Lovely relaxing trip - a totally different vibe to Sharm. One hour away through a mountainous road, best not attempted at night. Taxis should be 150le each way or 20le each way from the bus station then a Dahab 'taxi' (pick-up) for 5-10le into town. Take the number of your driver if you want to leave at a different time. The bridge is in the center of Toun with a promenade in each direction.

• Enjoy the sight and sound experience and the live show at Alf Lela w Lela (A thousand and one Nights) everyday. The live show is amazing, with different shows featuring a great male Belly Dancer well known as Mero, and other belly dancers. Also some Egyptians weddings, tanourra dance and shows. A bit down at heel but worth a look around.

• Short trips to Aqua Park, the largest water park in Sharm El Sheikh, Dolphinella where dolphin shows and dolphin swim takes place and crocodile show.

Do

• Diving is the main activity in Sharm el-Sheikh. When you dive into the warm water of the Red Sea and leave the remote desert behind, you will enter a world full of life and colours. Divers, especially photographers, should be confident with their buoyancy to avoid damaging the fragile coral reef system. Note that some hotels in Na'ama Bay have cleared the coral reef from their section of beach for tourists to use the water.

— The reefs of Tiran and Ras Mohammed are known as two of the best diving-spots in the world. They can be reached by boat from Sharm within two hours. Ras Mohammed is the name of the southern most point of the Sinai peninsula. There, the current of the Gulf of Aqaba meets the Gulf of Suez. Due to the increase of plankton in the water the amount of fish is incredible. Huge schools of Barracudas, Sharks and Murrays can be seen there every day.

The disadvantage of its popularity is that you may find up to 20 boats at the same reef. If you take a daily-boat you may enjoy your dive in the company of fifty other dive guides and about 10 divers in each group.

— The wreck of the SS Thistlegorm is generally regarded as one of the finest wreck dives in the world. However, it can also become very crowded with divers and definitely is an advanced dive due to strong currents and part of the dive is usually in an overhead environment.

— Smarter divers book a diving safari. This way you avoid the crowds at the popular spots and have the possibility to dive beautiful reefs way beyond the reach of any daytripping boats. The overall costs of a diving safari does not exceed daily diving and it saves you a lot of stress. Check out your chosen boat online and make sure the photos are current!

• Horseback riding. Stables at Sofitel Hotel. Helpful personnel. Require helmets (provided); several pairs of riding boots available. After the ride, offer you to give showers to your horse. Bambi and Kelly are declared as the fastest horses. Too far from the desert: in 2-hours route, only 40 minutes is actual ride in desert, the remainder time is spent to get there and to return back. For 2 hours, better choose stables at the edge of desert. EUR 45 for 2 hours.

• Quad bikes. There are dozens of operators who seem to use just the same route, length and sequence of stops: when you drive, you meet many groups who follow just the same route as yours. There are several really shaky pieces of the route, very much like a washboard.

Wear a long-sleeved shirt; shoes are safer than sandals. Always wear a helmet and make sure your travel insurance covers this activity. Expect all your wear (and skin) to be covered with grey dust.

2 hours of riding is just enough for a non-professional rider; expect several stops along the way. It's ideal to start your ride at 4pm or later--to catch a sunset and ride back when air is not that hot. At departure point, choose a bike in the beginning of the motorcade: being one of the first allows to drive faster, and results in less dust.

• Tiba Safari / Tiba Trip. Sold by many agencies. Groups are 10-15 bikes; two persons per bike is allowed (although bikes are originally designed for a single person). Tasting Berber tea is very risky for your stomach--proven several times.

Group is accompanied by a car with camcorder--video is not worth buying, and the car generates much extra dust (you can't do much about it unless your whole group ask in advance to not make video at all). $20 single person per bike for 2 hrs; $25 for two people sharing the same bike for 2 hrs. edit

Make sure you stay on the path and follow your guide, as Egypt has one quarter of the world's landmines buried in its deserts, some of them surprisingly close to Sharm el-Sheikh.

• Para sailing. Para sailing is very enjoyable. But, for a less than 5 minutes ride, they charge 260 pounds for 2 persons and 220 pounds for one person.

• Camel trekking. The best place to do this is in the Sinai desert on a tour with the Sinai's on their own bred camels. After this you can look up at the desert stars at midnight after having a homemade meal cooked by the Sinais themselves.

Buy

Water in shops cost around 3-5 LE. Bring your sunscreen, because they cost 80-200 LE anywhere in town, if you are without tan, shopkeeper will sell you one at very bad price - welcome to Egypt.

Na'ama Bay has very forceful sellers and caution should taken by the naive tourist who accepts a "free gift" (nothing in Egypt is free) or falls for the "come and sign my guest book" in a shop, only to be locked in.

When shopping, it is best not to speak to any sellers who engage you unless you are sure that you are going to buy something. This allows you some degree of hassle free walking (as they do not know what language you speak).

Opening hours are variable, but most shops are open in the early to late afternoon and in the evening. If you are looking for a reprieve from the hassle and haggling, there's a Carrefour Express supermarket with fixed prices. Coming from the bay it's hidden behind one of the Malls, at Golden Pyramid Mall – on Peace Road. The selection is limited, but all the staples are available without hassle. You just have to make it through the crowds of vendor touts to get there.

Carrefour Express, Marina, one street west of 'main disco street' (one street off from the main shopping/nagging street in Marina part). one of the classic European shops with price tags, option to pay with credit card without disadvantages, exchange machine and ATM inside. They do have a lot of local spices and even some souvenir items, like small papyrus just for 2 LE.

Eat and Drink

If you need a break from resort food try one of the local places below. If you're looking for a taste of home Il Mercato houses a McDonalds, KFC, Pizza Hut, Costa and a Starbucks. Manchow Wok has nice Chinese food and is opposite Stella, the only place to drink in El Mercato.

Na'ama Bay is amusing, especially at night, where lights of Bedouin-style and modern restaurants, café Shops, and other 'Bazaars' are glittering. Be aware that pork is not sold, even when it is advertised on a menu (it is actually a salted beef). A 10-15% service charge will be added to any bill.

There are 3 Indian restaurants in Sharm. One is Maharaja, on the beach pathway. Other two are India House Restaurants, of Thai Chain hotels. One is the old market and another one, opposite little Buddha, on the road near Taxi stand. Can get Indian menus.

For nightlife Na'ama Bay offers several clubs. The Pacha, Little Buddha and Hard Rock Cafe. (Yes, the latter is one of those chain one.) There are countless bars and the pedestrian walkways offer many coffee houses where you may also enjoy a shisha along with some people watching.

Alcohol (including beer) is available in restaurants and street cafes. Travellers must be aware that taxes are now levied on alcoholic drinks that are purchased in cafes or bars that are not associated with the hotels. Please also be aware of drink prices in general as they can be relatively expensive, compared to other european destinations.

Always ask to see a drinks menu before ordering a drink. Check in the Naama Bay cafes that you will not be charged 'entrance' and to watch the 'floor show' (bad dancing). Tea and coffee is around 15-25le, make sure you are paying sensible prices.

Fresh Guava juice is a must-try, excellent in any cafe, along with Bedouin or Mint tea.

Sleep

Most hotels in Sharm, particularly in the Na'ama Bay area cater for package tourists. There are mostly 3-6 star all-inclusive hotels and there are very few (if any) budget options. Generally it is best to knock a star off the official rating to avoid disappointment. Renting privately owned apartments is economical, but they vary in facilities.

Nabq or Montaza area it is quite a distance to the North (12km) from Na'ama Bay and Old Market, so you either are tied to their all-included ration, or need to pay for taxi for every dinner in Na'ama (although taxi is inexpensive from most of hotels, or take the hotel courtesy bus). You do have Soho Square and the 'Mall Strip' of Nabq area of all inclusive Hotels.

For hotels in Na'ama Bay itself, their territory is frequently crossed by a pedestrian street, so the beach may appear across the street from the hotel building--obviously affecting privacy even when using a hotel's pool. The Zebra crossings on the main roads are best ignored as the drivers have no idea what they are for!

Remember to check your choice out on Google maps to see if it is really near a beach as some are set back from the water some distance, although they do have shuttle buses (some of which incur local fees).

Get out

• Mount Sinai — a holy mountain known for the ancient Monastery of St. Catherine, and thought to be the mountain where Moses received the 10 commandments. A taxi for the days that waits for you can be found for about EGP400 (Jan 2009) if you want to go during the day. If you want to go for the sunset or sunrise you can book a trip through one of the local operators. Mark that the cafeteria in the Monastery does not always have food, but rather chips and snacks. It can be wise to bring some food if it is not set up for you as part of your trip.

• Dahab — a small and relaxing resort town 90km north from Sharm El Sheikh, just over one hour away offers a wide range of wind water sports as well as the famous Blue Hole.

• Taba Heights — a purpose built resort town 225km north, just over 2 hours drive and offers a wide range of wind water sports as well as the opportunity to see frog fish and sea horses. Useful as an overnight stop when catching the early morning ferry to Jordan.

• Ras Muhammad National Park, day trip by boat or half day trip by bus, dive or snorkel amongst the beautiful coral and fish. (passport + visa required, get visa on arrival at airport, visa cost is approximately 15$).

• Ras Abu Galum National Park, another dive/snorkel trip.

• Tiran Island - another boat trip to a popular dive/snorkel site (only passport required, you do not need to get the big visa).

• Cairo, day trip by bus or plane. See the sights of Cairo in one day, visit the three pyramids of Giza, Sphinx and Egyptian National Museum. Involves many hours of travelling by bus, if you can't face doing long travel in one day, do the trip by flight (flight duration is only 50 minutes) or enjoy the 2 days excursion by bus, it is also offered.

• Luxor day trip by plane to “Thebes” the ancient Egyptian royal metropolis. Visit the Karnak Temple, Hatshepsut Temple, Colossi of Memnon and the Valley of the Kings. The trip is also offered as a 2 day (overnight) excursion.

• Quad bikes / buggies in the desert: a number of companies offer a day trip where you are taken by bus to the desert area 20 mins outside Sharm to ride quad bikes or Buggies and enjoy fun.

• Visit the Bedouins in the desert, another popular series of day trips: go on a camel ride, enjoy the delicious Bedouin dinner and drink a special Bedouin tea in a romantic atmosphere in the desert, you can also enjoy stargazing with explanation of the Astronomer.

• Felucca cruise on the Nile - a 3 or 5 day excursion that will take you from Luxor to Aswan.

Warning: The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) and the German Auswärtiges Amt (AA) state that "There is a high threat from terrorism" in Egypt. (Wikivoyage/Wikitravel)

Naama Bay Promenade, Sharm el-Sheikh, Egypt.

Sharm el-Sheikh aerial view. Sharm el-Sheikh, Egypt. Photo: On tour/Wikipedia (CC BY-SA 3.0)