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Rurrenabaque, Bolivia

Rurrenabaque and the rio Beni from a nearby hill.

Rurrenabaque (or simply Rurre) is a small town (population 15.000) in the Beni Department on the banks of the Río Beni in the Bolivian Amazon Basin.

Get in

To get to Rurrenabaque across the Río Beni take one of the water taxis at Calle Santa Cruz for Bs1.5.

By bus. There are daily buses to and from La Paz. The journey takes 14-16 hours in the dry season and cost Bs80. The fastest and most convenient buses to La Paz leave at 21:00 and arrive before lunch. You can break the trip in Coroico, which is only 10-12 hours away, by getting off at Yosolita and continuing by shared minivan.

On a part of the road from La Paz to Coroico a new highway has been opened at the end of 2006, and the old 'death road' is now only for bikers. The new road only avoids a part of the 'death road' or Yungas Road. From Coroico (Yolosita) to Caranavi is another two to three hours on the death road, with the roadside canyon just a few hundred feet deep instead of a few hundred metres.

There are also daily buses to Riberalta and Guayará-Mirim. Inquire about departure times at the bus terminal; they vary wildly. During the rainy season, this road is virtually impassable, and trips may take up to six days. When the road's in good condition, Rurrenabaque-Riberalta should take about 20 hours, and Guayará another four.

The bus station is located a 25 min walk outside the city, take a motorbike for Bs7.

There are two offices on Avaroa offering jeep services to nearby towns and even La Paz (US$25 and only 12 hours).

By plane. A tarmac strip outside town is the main airport. In case it's flooded companies use the landing strip at Reyes, about 45 mins. away. There are daily connections to La Paz, but cancellations are common, especially in the rainy season. Amaszonas, +591 3 8922472. Santa Cruz s/n, is slightly pricier with Bs664, but has several flights daily.

A nearby airport can also be used, Reyes Airport, which is 32 kilometres (20 mi) and about one hour by bus.

If you're going east or north from Rurrenabaque there's a flight with TAM from Reyes to the cities of San Borja, Trinidad, Riberalta and Guayará-Mirim (on the border with Brazil).

What to See and Do in Rurrenabaque

• Butterfly Pool Mirador, entrance Bs. 30.

• Climb up to La Cruz, the cross southeast of town for a rewarding view of Rurre and Río Beni.

• Balneario El Ambiabo. For Bs20 you can cool down in the swimmingpool.

• Zipline / Canopy tour. For 20 USD You can speed through the canopy on a steel cable. Longest run is 620 meters.

• El Chocolatal Golf Eco-Resort. Half day activities for about 20USD. Jungle horse back riding, 9 hole golf course, disc golf. A paradise only 15 minutes outside of town.

Tours

There are about 20 tour companies offering jungle and pampas trips. The official price which every visitor has to pay now is 600 BOB (around 80 US-$, April 2009). Nevertheless it's possible to bargain, either in a travel agency in La Paz or directly in Rurre. The best time to visit is in the dry (and high) season when most wildlife is attracted to the river for water, the walking trails are less muddy and there are fewer mosquitoes.

• Jungle Tours. It's possible to stay between one and 30 days in the jungle. Mostly tours have lodging facilities along the Beni and Tuichi Rivers, but you can also go for a trekking and camp in the jungle. Good guides can tell you about the properties of the different plants and trees and let you taste some of the fruits. To spot wildlife you have to be lucky, most of the animals prefer to stay hidden in the dense forest. A night walk to reveal the nocturnal life is the best chance to see some.

Tour prices usually don't include park entrance (Bs80) and a fee to stay in a community (Bs50). For a perfect combination of culture and nature stay in one of the community based Eco-Lodges, such as Berraco del Madidi (Quechua-Tacanas), San Miguel del Bala (Tacanas), Chalalán (Quechua-Tacanas) or Mapajo (Tsiman-Mosetén).

La Magdalena Ecolodge is another option to take contact with nature in a private ranch with a comfortable hostal in the middle of jungle. Tucan Ecolodge is another option to take contact with nature in a tours in the Tuichi Rivers.

Pampas Tours. For watching wildlife opt for a pampas tour. Among animals you might see are six different species of Crocodilian (more species than any other region in the world is home to), including the giant black caiman. There are turtles, all three species of anaconda, pink dolphins, capybaras, monkeys, giant ant-eaters, porcupines, toucans, blue and yellow macaws, and even jaguars.

A number of native guides in the Pampas region are known for their snake-wrangling skills, and will catch poisonous snakes barehanded while on an excursion. Bird watchers are attracted equally to the Pampas and the Jungle, whereas entomologists tend to prefer the jungle tours, which offer a better selection of insect life, most notably butterflies. One of the unique experiences to be had in the Pampas region is swimming with pink river dolphins.

The dolphins are very sociable, and will often approach the sound of a motorboat, eager to interact with the people. Because the water is darkly stained and impenetrable by sight, many people experience anxiety when touched by the dolphins, because they can't be seen underwater. For most, however, it is a thrilling experience.

The dolphins greatly enjoy interacting with humans, and will each behave according to its own unique personality. Some are very gentle, and others enjoy the reactions they elicit by gently nipping a toe, or forcefully splashing the water directly behind a person.

Tour operators

• Berraco del Madidi Multi-day Tour Operator in the heart of The Madidi National Park. Calle Comercio esq. Vaca Diez (Rurrenabaque).

• Indigena Tours, Avaroa y Aniceto. Phone: 3892- 2091 (Rurrenabaque). Sagarnaga No 380 of. 3 near illampu Street, phone 22110749 (La Paz). high quality, good service.

• Mapajo, Santa Cruz s/n. Junglelodge run by an indigenous community.

• Chalalan, C Comercio Rurrenabaque. Ecolodge in Madidi national park, supports the community of San Jose. 6-8hrs by boat from Rurrenabaque. Expensive (USD 370/person for 4 days) but top quality accommodation, guides and food.

• Madidi Travel. Madidi Travel is a high quality, flexible and ecologically responsible operator. It offers tours to Serere Sanctuary, a stunning private reserve located two hours by boat from Rurrenabaque. The schedule of activities is decided with the group upon arrival in order to best serve each individual’s interest, if necessary, providing different guides for separate activities. Activities include - Hikes, canoeing, fishing, bird watching, jewellery making classes, and local cooking classes.

The guides who are all local people are very friendly and knowledgeable. Cabins are comfortable, including their own private bathroom and have been designed so that you can observe the jungle from your bed. The minimum tour is 3 days, and prices start from $70 USD per day. All profits from Madidi Travel’s tours go towards supporting its conservations work in the Madidi Mosaic. Madidi travel also has a volunteer program, accepting volunteers for short or long term stays. Madidi Travel has offices in La Paz and Rurrenabaque.

• Bala Tours & Ecolodges. Avenida Santa Cruz (between Calle comercio and Avaroa) in Rurrenabaque. Tours in the rain forest of the National Park Madidi, and in the Pampas of the Yacuma River. Where have the Tacuarales Eco-lodge, reached only by boat, 3 hours by boat up stream from Rurrenabaque. The Eco-lodges are owned and private, comfortable bedrooms , bathrooms with illuminations with Solars Panels.

Guides native responsables and friendly of differents indigenus communities and speak english. Caracoles ecó-lodge in Pampas has a restaurant, comfortable bedrooms, privates debrooms, hamacs, showers and bathrooms, too illumination with solars panels. It is possible to arrange a trip with 2 people how minimum - Company what offer eco-tourism in each trip.

• Inca Land Tours Travel Agency Eco-Tourism, Sagarnaga Street 213 Of. 10, +591 2316760. Avaroa y Aniceto Arce or book in La Paz. Friendly service and very knowledgeable they have accommodation. The Eco-lodge is owned and operated by Pampas and Jungle (Madidi National Park) top quality accommodation, guides and food.

• Mashaquipe. Eco / sustainable tourism to the jungle and pampas. Private eco lodge, local very knowledge guides, great food. Calle Abaroa entre Avenida Aniceto Arce y calle pando, Telf. 0591—3892—2704, Celulares: 71900773—76882250 - 71504007.

Buy

There are at least 2 ATMs accepting foreign cards: Banco Unio and Banco Fie, both on Comercio. But like everywhere, don´t count to much on the machines because they sometimes run out of money or only give out small amounts. Prodem (commercio s/n) gives cash advances on Visa and Mastercard credit cards with 5% commission.

There are several places to change dollars or cash travellers checks. Moskkito also change euros and claim they have the best rates in town.

Eat

• In the Mercado Municipal (Avaroa) there are severl comedors and jugerias for cheap food and fruitjuices.

• Restaurant Tacuara, Avaroa y Santa Cruz, has good deal dishes. The menu includes pizza, pasta, meat dishes and fastfood. It serves big portions of lasagna and it's also a good place for breakfast.

• Restaurant Camila's, Santa Cruz s/n, serves pastas, pizzas, Mexican food meat dishes and fastfood, mainly to foreigners.

• Restaurant La Cabaña, Santa Cruz s/n, has tasty meat and fish dishes with sunset views over the Río Beni.

• Sala de fiesta, Cl. Beni (San Buenaventura), for cheap lunches. It's popular with the locals, television and loud music is included in the price.

• Butterfly Restaurant, Gourmet national and international food in the jungle, complete menu and bar, healthy and freshest ingredients, bilingual and friendly attention, now attending in the swimming pool Butterfly Mirador.

• Juliano's, central Rurrabaque. Great restaurant with really friendly staff, and high quality food for good prices. You can get a discount ticket from Aerolineas Amazonas. Highly recommended steak.

• Panaderia Paris, Avaroa, between Santa Cruz and Vaca Diez. 06:00-11:00. Fresh bread, pastries, juices and coffee. Packed with locals and tourists. Open Monday to Saturday.

Drink

• Junglebar Moskkito, In a new location on Calle vaca diez, with bar, food, three pool tables, two dart boards and a large cd collection. Happy hour from 7PM-9PM. Is open every day from 3PM, 45" TV set connected to cable TV for all sports and others at request. Accepts credit cards, travelers' checks, US dollars, euros, pounds. Rather expensive.

• Butterfly Pub, calle Comercio. Five stars service and great deal like happy hour every night from 7PM-8PM, complete bar menu, bilingual and friendly attention.

• Restaurant Stephani and Juliano at Hotel Swimmingpool Ambaibo. French, Italian and Arab cuisine. Main courses round 50-70 Bol.

• Monkey´s Bar, Avaroa s/n.. 12PM-Late. This restaurant/Bar was originally called Pizzaria Italiana. They serve great Pizzas as well as a wide selection of fish, meat, pasta, and vegetarian dishes. There is also pool tables, dart boards and satellite tv, showing all major sporting events and more. Bilingual staff with happy hour from 7-9PM every day.

Sleep

• Hostal Oriental, on the main plaza. Rates (Bs100 single, 150 double as at Apr 2012) include breakfast, rooms are comfortable and very clean, showers hot, and there's a nice central area to relax on a hammock while you wait to see if your plane will ever actually leave town. Free wifi, also in the rooms.

• Hostal Touristico Santa Ana, Avaroa s/n. Clean rooms, friendly service and some lofty courtyard. There is also a pleasant hammocking area. Bathrooms (some with hot showers) are shared. All for only Bs40 (Feb 2012).

• Los Tucanes de Rurre Hotel, +591 -3-8922039, e-mail: info@hotel-tucanes.com. Rooms with private bathroom and hot shower, and rooms with common bathroom. Hammocks, breakfast, garage.

• Isla de Los Tucanes, +591 -3-8922127, e-mail: info@islatucanes.com. A tourist complex with bungalows that provide utmost in confort and privacy. Bugalows with 1,2,3 or 4 bedroom with terrace, cable TV and minibar. Bungalows are finely finished with Amazon details, where your mind and body find peace.

Stay safe

Be aware of the guides - there have been many incidents of theft and physical abuse on the pampas and jungle tours. Some of them are professinoal thiefs and liars. Do not lend or give anyone money - there will be no way of getting it back. They usually invent a story about ill family members that need medication or something similar to make the Gringos feel guilty. Single girls beware of "nice" guides - they spend one night with you and find a way of sqeezing out the money. (Wikivoyage, Wikipedia)

Street in the city center of Rurrenabaque.

Rio Benie in Rurrenabaque.