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Ronda, Spain

Bridge Puente Nuevo. Ronda, Spain. Photo: The Boxagon/Wikipedia

Ronda is a town in the province of Málaga in Andalusia, Spain. It is set in and around a deep gorge spanned by an impressive bridge, which brings in many day-trippers from the Costa del Sol and other places to admire the view.

However, Ronda is also a remarkably pretty town with beautiful architecture from the islamic period up to the 19th century, romantic winding streets with white-washed houses, some interesting museums, and lots of good places to eat and drink. It is also a good base to explore the surrounding area, where you will find beautiful mountains and many of the iconic pueblos blancos (white villages) of Andalusia.

The most conspicuous feature of Ronda is its location on a big sandstone hill that is cut in two by the El Tajo gorge, in which the Guadalevín rivers runs some 120 m below. The views of the gorge and the surrounding countryside are breathtaking, and worth the visit in itself.

The town has hosted a number of well-known writers, including Ernest Hemingway, Orson Welles, James Joyce, and the German poet Rainer Maria Rilke.

Ronda is divided into three neighbourhoods: the more modern Mercadillo, with the bus and train stations and other services; La Ciudad, the old Moorish quarter which has been largely preserved; and the Barrio de San Francisco. The town makes a good base for outdoor pursuits, including hiking, canoeing and river kayaking, and mountain biking.

Today, Ronda is a thriving town of some 35,000 people, most of whom live outside the historic centre. It is the capital of the comarca of Serranía de Ronda, which is one the most beautiful areas of Andalusia.

Climate

Ronda is located at an altitude of approx. 750 m a.s.l., so the climate is much more temperate than in the sweltering Guadalquivir plain, making it a good choice if you can't stand the Spanish summer heat. Keep in mind however that the winter season (November-March) is very wet.

Get in

By car. Ronda is not located on any major motorway, but it is easy to drive to from Málaga (1h20), Sevilla (1h45) or Córdoba (2h10).

Parking options are very limited inside the old town centre. Underground parking is found in the Plaza del Socorro (€0.65 per hour). Navigating Spanish town centres can take some nerve because of the narrow streets, but in general people are very polite in traffic.

From Marbella on the Costa del Sol, the scenic road A-376 leads through the mountains north. Plan on 1-1½ hours for the 43km journey, which after many hairpin curves reaches an elevation of 1,125m before descending to Ronda. At the highest point is a monument to the German poet Rainer Maria Rilke, in the form of a stone memorial with a stylized pen nib.

For a scenic route from Seville, head south on A-376 to Utrera, and then take A-375 to Puerta Serrana, and A-384/374 further on to Ronda.

From Jerez de la Frontera, take A-382 west to Arcos de la Frontera, continue on A-384 past the exit to Puerta Serrana and Seville, and pick up A-374 to Ronda.

Distances to/from Ronda: Madrid 612 km, Algecoras 100 km, Cadiz 150 km

Get around

Ronda is a small town, both easily and best navigated on foot.

While driving in by car may be interesting - once within Ronda - park it! Ronda is difficult to navigate by car, especially in the older quarters. In some parts - non-resident cars aren't even allowed to use the streets! There are two reasonably convenient public car parks in the Mercadillo: an underground garage beneath the Plaza del Socorro; and another car park on Avenida Poeta Rilke, north of the bull ring.

See

The town is divided into two parts: La Ciudad is the old town south of the gorge, roughly the area of the walled medieval medina. The north part of town is called El Mercadillo. Both parts are worth exploring on foot, as they have a different atmosphere.

La Ciudad is a maze of small streets with white-washed houses, beautiful churches and remains of old islamic architecture. El Mercadillo is a more classic Spanish town, with broader streets and pleasant buildings predominantly dating from the 18th and 19th century.

• Puente Nuevo (New Bridge), ☎ +34 620 340 148. Museum: Mo-Fr 10AM-6PM, Sa 10AM-1:45PM and 3-6PM, Su 10AM-3PM. The iconic 18th-century stone bridge of Ronda is one the three bridges crossing the El Tajo gorge, but it is by far the best known because the river runs more than 100 m below. It took more than 40 years to build. It seems remarkably inconspicuous when you are on top of it, and the best views of the gorge are not from there. But when you go down into the gorge, it is a magnificent sight. Inside the bridge is a small museum that can be entered via the guardhouse. €2.

• Baños Árabes (Arabic bathhouses), Calle San Miguel, S/N, ☎ +34 656 95 09 37. 10AM-6PM. This medieval spa or hammam was built in the late 13th/early 14th century just outside the city walls, in the old Jewish quarter on the Guadalevín riverside. After the islamic period the baths fell into disuse, were flooded and eventually forgotten. They were partly excavated in the 20th century, and they are supposed to be the best preserved examples of Arabic baths across Spain.

• Plaza de Toros / Real Maestranza de la Caballería de Ronda (Bullring), Calle Virgen de la Paz, 15, ☎ +34 952 874 132 (info@realmaestranza.org), . 10AM-8PM. The lofty name of the Ronda bullring refers to its owners, the Royal School of Cavalry, a society established in 1573 by king Philip II to train his knights in times of peace. Apart from the 1785 bullring, the oldest in Spain, they also operate a classical Spanish riding school. The museum relates the history of the Real Maestranza and Ronda's bullfighting dynasties. The bullring is now only used for corridas during the Pedro Romero festival in September. €7.

• Palacio de Mondragón (Mondragón Palace), Plaza Mondragón, s/n, ☎ +34 952 870 818 (museoarqueologico@ronda.es). Mo-Fr 10AM-6PM. Once the home of Ronda's muslim rulers, it is now a wonderful architectural mixture of islamic, Gothic and Renaissance styles, with a beautiful garden. It now houses Ronda's municipal museum, dedicated to the history of the town and its surroundings. €3.

• Iglesia de Santa María La Mayor (Great Church of St. Mary), Plaza Duquesa de Parcent. Mo-Sa 10AM-7PM, Su 10-12:30AM and 2-7PM. The former mosque of Ronda was converted into a Roman catholic church after the Spanish conquered the city. It took a long time to complete, which is the reason why you can admire Moorish, Gothic, Renaissance and baroque style elements all mixed together. €4.

• Alameda del Tajo. This tree-lined 19th-century avenue is located next to the bullring on the edge of the precipice, offering wonderful panoramas.

• Iglesia de Espíritu Santo (Church of the Holy Spirit). M-Sa 10:00-14:00. Construction of this church began in 1485 and was completed 20 years later. The church has a nave with three vaults, and from the outside has the appearance of a fortification. €1 (adults and children over 10), free (children under 10).

• Puente Viejo (Old Bridge), Calle Molino de Alarcón. This small bridge was the means of crossing the Tajo before the completion of the newer, larger one. This bridge was the entrance to the city in Arab times, and is crowned by a beautiful arch erected during the reign of king Philip V in 1742.

• Arco de Felipe V (Arch of Philip V), Calle Real. A beautiful arch, named for Phillip the Fifth.

• Museo de Peinado (Palacio de Moctezuma), Calle de San Juan Bosco, 78 (Plaza del Gigante), ☎ +34 952 87 15 85, e-mail: museopeinado@obrasocialunicaja.com. M-F 10:00-17:00, Sa and holidays 10:00-15:00; closed 25 Dec, 1 Jan and 6 Jan.

Joaquin Peinade was born in 1898 in Ronda and died in 1975 in Paris. Artistically he was a descendant of Cézanne and spiritual son of Picasso, and he is often described as the most elegant of the painters from the so-called 'Spanish School' of Paris. Paintings from the painter's career, which spanned from 1923-1974 are on display.

The collection includes more than 190 pieces, including some lesser-known works from the painter's private collection. Particularly noteworthy paintings include Still Life with Pears, Figure with Dove, Fruit Basket, and Female Nude.

The museum is housed in a palace named after the last Aztec king, in the center of La Ciudad. The building from the 19th century has mixed architectural influences, and both courtyards are worth looking at. €4 (adults), €2 (seniors/students), free (children under 14); free on Tu afternoons.

• Museo Lara, Calle Armiñán, 29, ☎ +34 952 87 12 63. Nov-May daily 11:00-19:00, Jun-Oct 11:00-20:00. Recently opened following the initiative of Juan Lara Jurado, this museum houses a collection of more than 2000 works of art and antiquities. It is the largest private museum in Andalusia. €4 (adults), €2 (students/seniors/Ronda residents).

• Museo Bandolero (Museum of Bandits), Calle Armiñan, 65, ☎ +34 952 87 77 85. Daily including holidays: autumn/winter 11:00-19:00, spring/summer 11:00-20:30. The only museum in Spain devoted to the history of bandits (bandoleros), which were widespread throughout the region in the 19th century. €3.75 (adults), €2.80 (seniors/students/youth card).

• Puerta de Almocábar. Ronda's primary Moorish gate separates La Ciudad from the Barrio de San Francisco. There are a couple sets of stairs leading to the top of the wall and to the watchtowers, which offer great views of the surrounding area. Free.

• Casa del Gigante (Giant's House), Plaza del Gigante, 5. So-named for the stone figure placed at the corner. The house dates from the 14 and 15th centuries, and has a number of Moorish architectural elements, including horseshoe arches, ornate stucco work, and decorative wooden ceilings. The building has been carefully restored and is open to the public.

• Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra (Palace of the Marquis of Salvatierra), Calle Real, 2. A Renaissance mansion with an unusual façade of four Peruvian Indians. The building is still a private residence and is not open to the public, but can be viewed from the outside.

• Casa de San Juan Bosco (Casa Don Bosco), Calle Tenorio, 20. Built in the early 20th century and accessed via a tiled entryway, the house contains a large collection of regional ceramics as well as 19th-century tapestries.. A landscaoed terrace provides wonderful views of the gorge and the Puente Nuevo. Entry fee.

Outside town

• Acinipo (Old Ronda), (leave Ronda in the direction of Sevilla, and after 10 km take the MA-7402 uphill, following the signs for Acinipo and Ronda la Vieja). Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 9AM-2PM. Some 20km from Ronda, the remains of the old Roman town of Acinipo can be visited, boasting a well-preserved amphitheatre. The site is in the middle of the countryside, which makes it a special experience to visit. Free entrance.

• Cueva de la Pileta (La Pileta Cave), (leave Ronda in the direction of Sevilla, and after 2 km take the MA-7401 in the direction of Benajoan. From there, take the MA-8401 in the direction of Cortes de la Frontera), ☎ +34 687 13 33 38, [3]. 10AM-1PM and 4-6PM. This cave contains the best-preserved cave paintings in Andalusia, some over 20,000 years old. Definitely worth the detour, even when not all the paintings are accessible because of their vulnerability.

There is no illumination inside, so you will be carrying flashlights. The guided tour takes approx. 1 hour, but the timetable is not fixed, depending on the number of visitors tours may be merged. Adults €8, ages 5-10 €5.

Do

• Walking. The walk to the bottom of the gorge is a must-do, and it is the best place for pictures. If there is an extended dry spell, however, the gorge can be smelly because of the sewage released into the river.

• Interpretation Center of Ronda Wine, Calle Gonzalez Campos, 2, ☎ +34 95287 97 35, e-mail: recepcion@bodegaslasangrederonda.es. Daily 10:00-20:00. Old winery and now a museum of wine, offering wine tastings and vineyard tours. €4-10.

• La Casa Del Rey Moro (Palace of the Moorish King), Calle de Santo Domingo, 9 (cross the famous bridge into La Cuidad, take the first proper street to the left. La Casa is on the left.), ☎ +34 952 18 72 00. Pretty gardens and a castle currently undergoing renovation. The main attraction, however, is the water mine – underground steps leading all the way down to the bottom of the gorge.

• Feria de Pedro Romero (Festival of Pedro Romero). Beginning of September. Celebrated with parades and bullfights.

• Hiking. There are a number of hiking trails around Ronda, including eight with trailheads beginning in Ronda itself. The tourist information office carries maps and trail descriptions for €1/trail; alternatively their website has a comprehensive list of routes with GPS coordinates and trail descriptions available for free download.

One of the most popular routes is Route 3 (SL-A 38), which descends to the bottom of the Tajo Gorge passing by several excellent viewpoints of the Puente Nuevo. (A word of caution is advised, though, as if there is an extended dry spell, the gorge can stink because sewage is still released into the river.

Eat and Drink

Avoid the restaurants in the tourist area during the day, as they are overpriced and often only full of other tourists! Look for smaller cafes and bars.

A quick breakfast usually consists of toast (pan tostada) and coffee (cafe con leche – coffee with milk; be sure to add the pack of sugar always served with it for a real treat.) If you are looking for an inexpensive snack or lunch, any bar will be able to make you a sandwich (bocadillo) with your choice of ham, cheese, or tomato. Also, look for bakeries (pastelerias), as Spain has some of the finest pastries around.

Near Ronda, high quality wines are produced in small wineries. Also you can find "Anis del Tajo".

Get out

Ronda is an excellent base of exploration for the pueblos blancos and the Sierra de Grazalema and Sierra de las Nieves Natural Parks, although reaching them by public transport may take some planning.

• Montejaque, good base for hiking and other outdoor activities.

• Zahara de la Sierra, small medieval town with castle, wonderfully located on the eponymous reservoir.

• Grazalema, allegedly the wettest town in Spain, in the middle of the Natural Park. (Wikivoyage/Wikitravel)

The pedestrian shopping street Carretera Espinel. Ronda, Spain. Photo: Olaf Tausch/Wikipedia (CC BY-SA 3.0)