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Prince Edward Island, Canada

Charlottetown.

Prince Edward Island (or PEI) is located in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, west of Cape Breton Island, north of the Nova Scotia peninsula, and east of New Brunswick. Its southern shore bounds the Northumberland Strait. The island has two urban areas. The largest surrounds Charlottetown Harbour, situated centrally on the island's southern shore, and consists of the capital city Charlottetown, and suburban towns Cornwall and Stratford and a developing urban fringe.

A much smaller urban area surrounds Summerside Harbour, situated on the southern shore 40 km (25 mi) west of Charlottetown Harbour, and consists primarily of the city of Summerside. As with all natural harbours on the island, Charlottetown and Summerside harbours are created by rias.

The island's landscape is pastoral. Rolling hills, woods, reddish white sand beaches, ocean coves and the famous red soil have given Prince Edward Island a reputation as a province of outstanding natural beauty.

The coastline has a combination of long beaches, dunes, red sandstone cliffs, salt water marshes, and numerous bays and harbours. The beaches, dunes and sandstone cliffs consist of sedimentary rock and other material with a high iron concentration, which oxidises upon exposure to the air.

Large dune fields on the north shore can be found on barrier islands at the entrances to various bays and harbours. The magnificent sand dunes at Greenwich are of particular significance. The shifting, parabolic dune system is home to a variety of birds and rare plants; it is also a site of significant archeological interest.

PEI has three counties:

• Prince, the western third of the province
• Queens, the central third of the province
• Kings, the eastern third of the province

Cities

• Charlottetown - capital city of province and county seat of Queens County
• Summerside - county seat of Prince County

Towns

• Cavendish
• Souris
• Montague
• Georgetown - county seat of Kings County

Climate

The climate of the island is considered to be moderate and strongly influenced by the surrounding seas.

During July and August, the average daytime high in PEI is 23 °C (73 °F); however, the temperature can sometimes exceed 30 °C (86 °F) during these months. In the winter months of January and February, the average daytime high is −3.3 °C (26 °F). The Island receives an average yearly rainfall of 855 millimetres (33.7 in) and an average yearly snowfall of 285 centimetres (112 in).

Winters are moderately cold and long but are milder than inland locations, with clashes of cold Arctic air and milder Atlantic air causing frequent temperature swings.

Summers are moderately warm, but rarely uncomfortable, with the daily maximum temperature only occasionally reaching as high as 30 °C (86 °F). Autumn is a pleasant season, as the moderating Gulf waters delay the onset of frost, although storm activity increases compared to the summer. There is ample precipitation throughout the year, although it is heaviest in the late autumn, early winter and mid spring.

Flora and fauna

Prince Edward Island used to have native moose, bear, caribou, wolf, and other larger species. Due to hunting and habitat disruption these species are no longer found on the island. Some species common to P.E.I. are red foxes, coyote, blue jays, and robins. Skunks and raccoons are common non-native species. Species at risk in P.E.I. include piping plovers, american eel, bobolinks, little brown bat, and beach pinweed.

Some species are unique to the province.

Get in

By car

Being an island, PEI has limited access by car.

• The monumental Confederation Bridge, almost a visitor attraction in and of itself (viewing stations on the New Brunswick side offer good photo opportunities), crosses the Northumberland Strait between New Brunswick and PEI. It's reached from the mainland on TCH Route 16 near Aulac, and stretches 13 km across open water to the island. The toll of $47.00 toll for a car, $18.75 for a motorcycle (2018 rates, 2-axle vehicle), is collected on the PEI side when returning to the mainland.

• PEI Express Shuttle, +1-877-877-1771, offers van service between PEI and Halifax. 3 days advance reservation is recommended.

By boat

There are a number of car ferries to PEI:

• Northumberland Ferries Limited, +1-888-249-7245, crosses from Caribou, Nova Scotia to Woods Islands about once every hour and a half, from 6:30AM to 7:00PM (a return trip is $19 per passenger or $72 per car or camper up to 20 ft (6.1 m), in fact, similarly to the toll bridge, only the way out from PEI is charged). The ferries do not operate during the winter months.

• CTMA, +1-418-986-3278, runs ferries from Cap-aux-Meules on Îles-de-la-Madeleine, Quebec, to Souris about once a day ($40 per passenger or $75 per car).

Throughout the summer months, cruise liners stop in Charlottetown for one-day visits.

By plane

Prince Edward Island is served by a single airport in Charlottetown (YYG). The following airlines operate passenger flights into the airport:

• Air Canada/Air Canada Express (Halifax (Nova Scotia), Montreal, Toronto)
• WestJet (Toronto)
• Sunwing Vacations (Toronto)
• Delta Air Lines (New York City)

Get around

Non-metered taxi service is available within the city limits of Charlottetown and Summerside, as well as in most large communities. Most taxi companies are willing to provide transportation to rural areas of the island as well, but be prepared to pay a higher rate for this service.

The city of Charlottetown operates a public transit system that provides bus transportation at a cost of $2.25 to various locations around the city. Although the service does not extend very far beyond city limits, it does provide fast, reliable transportation to most locations within them. There is little intercity public transport: T3 on line Charlottetown-Kensigton-Hunter River-Charlottetown.

In the summer cycling is popular. Although most roads do not have wide shoulders or designated bike lanes, drivers tend to be quite courteous to cyclists. The landscape consists mostly of rolling hills; there are few steep hills to climb. Additionally, the Confederation Trail stretches from one end of the island to the other. Built on a disused rail bed, the trail has low grades and is reserved for cyclists and pedestrians. Cycling maps, sample itineraries and other cycling resources are available from Tourism PEI, MacQueen's Island Tours (based in Charlottetown), and Atlantic Canada Cycling.

Outside of walking, hitchhiking or cycling, a vehicle is almost mandatory to travel the island, especially in winter.

What to See in Prince Edward Island

Tourism in PEI often focuses on beach, seafood, music and the Anne of Green Gables House.

• Cape Bear. Formed from high cliffs that offer a good location for photography and viewing seals. During World War II, the lighthouse at Cape Bear was used to spot German U-Boats. Cape Bear was also the first land station in Canada to receive an SOS from the Titanic in 1912.

• The Ghost Ship of the Northumberland Strait. A legendary ghost ship believed to sail the Northumberland Strait by nightfall engulfed in flames. Many ships ventured out on rescue missions to this burning ship. Reportedly, the ship always receded from view. Witnesses across the island will testify to sightings of this phantom ship.

• High Bank (In Kings County in eastern PEI). The cliffs surrounding High Bank provide sweeping views along the Northumberland Strait of Nova Scotia and Pictou Island.

• Malpeque Harbour. A bay in Prince County. It is the source of not just the famous oysters but many postcards and posters of the picturesque fishing boats, colourful barn-shaped boat houses, and neatly stacked lobster traps. Arrive in late afternoon or early morning for the best light on the water.

• Murray Harbour (In southern Kings County). In the 1700s the harbour became an important Canadian port for the fishing trade. Today, Murray Harbour is still a fishing community. Local fishermen cast around the harbour for lobsters and scallops.

• St Peter's Bay. Bordered by the 360 ha (900 acre) Greenwich Dunes on one side, and is full of row upon row of buoys used for mussel farming.

What to Do in Prince Edward Island

• Victoria Playhouse. In picturesque Victoria by the Sea presents up to 85 live theatre and performance events each season. The playbill includes a mix of established classics and new plays by young playwrights.

• Prince Edward Island bike tours. The tour starts in Cape North and winds its way through Malpeque Bay, along the Bay of St. Lawrence, to the most easterly point of the island, passing through many lovely villages, including Cavendish, North Rustico, Brackley Beach,and Stanhope.

• Basin Head is a popular beach which also has a bridge that you can go and have some fun jumping off of.

• The Dunes Gallery & Cafe, RR9 Brackley Beach, +1 902 672-2586. 11:30AM-10:00PM. Cafe (open from the beginning of June) and gallery (open 9AM-6PM from the beginning of May) that features a number of local artists, furniture, and some imported crafts. There are also water gardens on the grounds.

• PEI Scenic Drives, Covers the Island. Anytime. One of the best ways to experience island life is to meander along the various back roads and highways, adding your own diversions here and there. Tourism PEI promotes three scenic drives: North Cape Coastal Drive, Blue Heron, and Points East Coastal Drive. All are unique and shed a glimpse of different aspects of Island life. Cycling is also a great way to see PEI and the areas covered by the scenic drives. A good first stop for cycling information and resources is Tourism PEI.

• Experience PEI, 274 Salutation Cove Rd, +1 902 887-3222. M-Su 8AM-5PM. Experience PEI provides exciting and unique experiential tourist activities for visitors to the island. They take you and your group on these activities so you can get a real sense of what it's like to be an islander and a taste of the Island culture. $30-200.

• PEI Confederation Trail. Prince Edward Island's Confederation Trail is 470 km, travelling almost all the island. It is part of the Trans Canada Trail.

Buy

During winter and early spring (January-May) most stores remain closed on Sundays although all essential services are available. Between the end of May and December, stores are open on Sunday. Given the island's large tourism industry, there are many, varied souvenir shops all over. Some of the more impressive are Prince Edwards Island Preserves in New Glasgow, Vessy's Seeds in York and The Dunes in Brackley. These shops carry locally produced art work, food and clothing items.

• The Magik Dragon, 9389 N Murray River, +1 902 962-2839, e-mail: info@bestofpei.com. Sells an abundance of unique and colourful gifts including shark tooth necklaces, crystals, stones, and wooden carvings. The Magik Dragon is a one-of-a-kind store with gifts for the curious and mystical person.

Eat

Prince Edward Island has seen a tremendous improvement in the quality of its restaurants. The traditional tourist restaurants serving boiled lobsters with all-you-can-eat coleslaw still exist, and can be a lot of fun, but those looking for a more refined or exotic meal now have several options.

Budget

• Malpeque oysters are known around the world for their large size, soft flesh and sweet, mild flavour. Eat the freshest possible Malpeque oysters at the Malpeque Oyster Barn, Malpeque Harbour, +1 902 836-3999. Oysters are a bargain at $18/dozen. They also serve chowder, mussels, beer and sodas. Open until 8PM.

• Brehauts Restaurant, Murray Harbour, +1 902 962-3141. A modest family-owned restaurant since 1976. A must-visit in Murray Harbour, well-known for their fresh and local seafood. A restaurant for all ages, customers can dine inside or outside on picnic tables.

Mid-range

• The Café on the Clyde (located in the Prince Edward Island Preserve Company store, in New Glasgow at the junction of routes 224 and 258), toll-free: +1-800-565-5267. Has a selection of breakfast items served until 11AM, and lunch and dinner items served after that. The potato and bacon pie is excellent, as is the lobster croissant. The fish cakes are made the traditional way with salt cod and potatoes; an authentic Maritime experience, but most customers don't order them twice. A wide selection of black and herbal teas are available either hot or iced. The dining room has a beautiful view over the idyllic Clyde River. It's a great place to stop for breakfast, lunch, a light dinner, or just a cup of tea and a piece of home-made cake.

• Lobster suppers are a highly popular dining experience and ubiquitous on the island. These meals are built around a main course of locally-caught lobster and usually include appetizers, soups, salads and desserts. Look for a large, red lobster claw on the front lawn of a church or social club, or a hand painted sign at a crossroad.

• New Glasgow Lobster Suppers, Rte 258 (off Hwy 13). One of the most widely advertised restaurants for the lobster dining experience. In the village of New Glasgow near the heart of Anne of Green Gables country. You can choose from 1, 1½ and 2 lb lobsters. Prices, though high for the island, are very reasonable compared to elsewhere.

• St. Ann's Parish (Off Route 224 in New Hope), +1 902 621-0635. Offers a huge amount of food — all home cooked — for a reasonable price. The traditional lobster dinner includes soup, a heaping bowl of local mussels, salad, cole slaw, au gratin potatoes, vegetables, lobster, and homemade dessert. They also serve other entrees, as well as wine and beer. Children's menu available. Be sure to arrive hungry.

Splurge

• Widely recognized as the best dining on PEI is the Inn at Bay Fortune, Bay Fortune, +1 902 687-3745 (winter +1 860 563-6090). The menu was developed by chef Michael Smith, and his Food Network series The Inn Chef was filmed at the Inn. Smith has left to focus on his television programme, but the quality of the food has not decreased. Chef Warren Barr offers a daily tasting menu. The restaurant has been awarded three stars (the maximum) by the Where to Eat in Canada dining guide.

Groceries

If you choose to cook your own meals at a rental cottage or a camp site there are a number of large grocery stores located around the island. Atlantic Superstore (locations in Charlottetown, Summerside, and Montague) and Sobeys (locations in Charlottetown, Summerside, Montague, Stratford, and West Royalty) are the largest grocery stores in the province, and both carry a wide selection of staples as well as international imports. Sunday shopping is permitted during the summer season. Also, there are two Walmarts in the province, in Charlottetown and Summerside.

Drink

The legal drinking age in Prince Edward Island is 19. Bars, clubs and liquor stores will typically ask for a government-issued ID from anyone who looks under 25. Retail alcohol sale on the island is restricted to the government-controlled PEI Liquor Commission. Their stores carry a reasonable selection of wine, beer and liquor.

Sleep

• Briarcliffe Inn, 274 Salutation Cove Rd, +1 902 887-2333. The Briarcliffe Inn is a bed and breakfast in Salutation Cove with a beautiful view overlooking the Confederation Bridge. $130-200.

• Northumberland Provincial Park Campground, 12547 Shore Rd, Rte 4 (3 km from the Wood Islands Ferry), +1 902 962-7418. Open from 27 May-17 Sep. The Northumberland Provincial Campground provides a gentle camping experience. The park has a lovely view of a family friendly island beach with lifeguards on duty through the summer. $25-45.

Go next

• The ferries to the Îles-de-la-Madeleine and Nova Scotia: the one to Nova Scotia could be a shorter route if you go to Cape Breton Island. However, Confederation Bridge remains open year-round and is the fastest, cheapest and most convenient way back to the mainland.

• There are daily flights between Charlottetown and Montreal, Toronto, and Halifax. (Wikivoyage, Wikipedia)