Palenque, Mexico

Palenque, Temple of the Inscriptions. Photo: Ovedc/Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Located in Chiapas, Mexico, Palenque (also anciently known as Lakamha) is famous for the ruins of a Mayan city dating from about 600 to 800 CE. Set amidst thick trees, Palenque still evokes some of the wonder that the early Spanish visitors must have felt when they first came across the ruins. The pre-historic city and the national park have been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Palenque is a medium-sized archaeological site, much smaller than Tikal or Copán, but it contains some of the finest sculpture, architecture, roof combs, and bas-relief carvings of the Mayan era.

Get in

By air. The closest airport is Palenque Airport. You can fly there with Interjet from Mexico city. Another airport is Villahermosa, about two hours away by road. Tuxtla Gutiérrez, the airport for San Cristobal de las Casas is five to six hours away by bus. Both airports are well serviced with flights from Mexico City and other points in Mexico.

By road. The easiest way to get to Palenque is by bus. There are many buses daily from San Cristobal de las Casas (five hours), Tuxtla Gutiérrez (six hours), Villahermosa (2.5 hours), Merida (8 hours), Campeche (5 hours), Cancún (13 hours). Daily (one or two buses) also ply from Mexico City (16 hours), Oaxaca (15 hours), Playa del Carmen (12 hours), and Tulum (12 hours).

It is also possible to get to Palenque from Flores in Guatemala by bus (6h, leaving Flores daily at 5am, US$35).

Get around

The ruins are about 6 km from the town of Palenque and minibuses run between the town and the "Ruinas" every 10 to 15 minutes (M$20) during the day. Flag one on Benito Juárez, on the way back, catch one at the main gate or near the museum.

See

Archeological ruins

• Temple of the Inscriptions. The temple superstructure houses the second longest glyphic text known from the Maya world. The Pyramid measures 60 meters wide, 42.5 meters deep and 27.2 meters high. The Summit temple measures 25.5 meters wide, 10.5 meters deep and 11.4 meters high. The largest stones weigh 12 to 15 tons. These were on top of the Pyramid. The Total volume of pyramid and temple is 32,500 cu. meters.

The temple also has a duct structure that still is not completely understood by archaeologists. It has been suggested that the duct aligns with the winter solstice and that the sun shines down on Pakal's tomb.

• Temples of the Cross group. The Temple of the Cross, Temple of the Sun, and Temple of the Foliated Cross are a set of graceful temples atop step pyramids, each with an elaborately carved relief in the inner chamber depicting two figures presenting ritual objects and effigies to a central icon.

• Palace. The Palace, a complex of several connected and adjacent buildings and courtyards, was built by several generations on a wide artificial terrace during four century period. The Palace was used by the Mayan aristocracy for bureaucratic functions, entertainment, and ritualistic ceremonies. The Palace is located in the center of the ancient city.

Within the Palace there are numerous sculptures and bas-relief carvings that have been conserved. The Palace most unusual and recognizable feature is the four-story tower known as The Observation Tower.

The Palace was equipped with numerous large baths and saunas which were supplied with fresh water by an intricate water system. An aqueduct, constructed of great stone blocks with a three-meter-high vault, diverts the Otulum River to flow underneath the main plaza. It is the largest building complex in Palenque measuring 97 meters by 73 meters at its base.

• The Temple of the Skull has a skull on one of the pillars.

• Temple XIII contained the Tomb of the Red Queen, an unknown noble woman, possibly the wife of Pakal.

• The Temple of The Jaguar (a.k.a. The Temple of the Beautiful Relief) at a distance of some 200 meters south of the main group of temples; its name came from the elaborate bas-relief carving of a king seated on a throne in the form of a jaguar.

• Structure XII with a bas-relief carving of the God of Death.

• Temple of the Count another elegant Classic Palenque temple.

Falls

• Agua Azul . Driving on Highway 199 in the direction of Oscosingo, 60 km away is a turnoff to the Agua Azul waterfalls. The waterfalls are breathtaking, as white foamed water plunges into turquoise-blue pools on several levels. Only in the rainy season are these pools more brown than blue. Bathing is possible here, but not without danger. Depending on the season, the current can be extremely strong, and underwater are stones and tree trunks. At the waterfall there are numerous small stalls that sell souvenirs and small snacks.

• Misol-ha. A waterfall located in the Municipality of Salto de Agua, 20 kilometers from Palenque by the road that leads towards San Cristóbal de las Casas.

Almost every tour operator in Palenque offers a day trip to Misol-ha and Agua Azul.

Do

The village has a lovely, tree-sheltered zocalo where bands will play in the evening. Join the Villagers for a drink on the square.

Buy

You can get some Maya-style artwork from outdoor vendors who set up unobtrusively at the ruins.

Sleep

Sleeping accommodation can be found either in the city of Palenque, or just outside the limits on the road to the national park.

Near ruins

• Mayabell. Very near the ruins and has many options to stay, from hammocks to cabins inside the jungle. Showers, restaurant with live music and shows during the night, a big swimming pool and parking space, also for RV's.

• El Panchan. It is relatively near the ruins and has cabanas and small cabins and common sleeping areas with hammocks. A cabana with access to a common showers and bathrooms facility is M$80. The little Otulum river runs through the location.

• Jungle Palace (In El Panchan). Offers mixed budget accommodation from camping, dorms, and small cabañas all with shared bathroom. Showers have hot water. Dorms M$70, Camping M$30, Cabaña (for 4) from M$200.

• Margarita and Ed Cabañas (In El Panchan). Very friendly, clean, but not super cheap. They have icey cold air-conditioned rooms, a bare necessity after hiking through the ruins at Palenque during rainy (and pretty much all other) seasons. Private with A/C from US$30.

In town

• Posada Na'Chan Ka'an, 2a. Avenida Sur Pte (Av. 20 de Noviembre) (In the city center at the corner where the colectivos for the ruins leave). Check-in: 24h, check-out: by 12.00. Very friendly, clean budget spot in the town of Palenque. Laundry, free internet and WIFI. Hot water (also in dorms). Baggage locker M$10/day. Dorms M$80, single M$250, double M$300, triple M$350.

Eat

Don Muchos is a great restaurant at El Panchan as well. Great stone-oven pizzas and live music. The stone-oven pizzas cost M$60 and are very good.

Go next

Other ruins in the general area are Yaxchilán and Bonampak. These can be arranged by day trip or overnighter with any agency in town. (Wikivoyage, Wikipedia)

Temple of the skull. Photo: Peter Andersen/Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

The Palace at Palenque on the left with the aqueduct on the right. Photo: Ricraider/Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Misol-Ha. Photo: panza-rayada/Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

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