The World at Your Fingertips

Jaipur, India

Albert Hall (Museum).

Jaipur, also known as the Pink City, is the capital of Indian state of Rajasthan and its largest city. The city was built in the 18th century by Sawai Jai Singh as India's first planned city, and today it's a major tourist attraction for Indians and for international visitors.

It is a very picturesque city with splendid palaces, forts and historical monuments and belongs to the tourist Golden Triangle along with Delhi and Agra. It hosts several attractions including the City Palace, Govind Dev ji Temple, Vidhan Sabha, Birla Temple and several massive Rajput forts. It also serves as a stepping stone for those heading to the desert cities of Jodhpur and Jaisalmer.

Climate

Jaipur's climate is characterised as semiarid, with just a few rainy days per month for most of the year. The exception is the monsoon period from June to September, when heavy rain and thunderstorms are commonplace.

Expect daytime highs of above +20°C throughout the year, and prepare for scorching heat in May and June. During the winter temperatures are mild, and while nighttime temperatures seldom drop much below +10°C, Jaipur has experienced temperatures below freezing.

Get in

By plane

Jaipur Airport (JAI) is in the satellite town of Sanganer and offers sporadic (chartered) service to London and Dublin. Direct flights to Singapore, Bangkok, Abu Dhabi, Sharjah, Muscat and Dubai are also available.

Jaipur also has daily domestic air links with many Indian cities such as Jodhpur, Udaipur, Aurangabad, Delhi, Hyderabad, Kolkata, Goa, Chennai, Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Mumbai, Pune and Indore.

By train

Indian Railways connects Jaipur from all over the country and is one of the cheapest options. A number of daily trains connect Jaipur to Delhi, Ahmedabad, Agra, Mumbai, Jodhpur, Kota, Alwar and Ajmer. Daily connections are also available for Udaipur, Chittorgarh, Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Barmer, Kolkata, Jammu, Pathankot, Ludhiana, Kanpur, Roorkee, Haridwar, Gwalior, Indore, Jabalpur and Bhopal.

Long-distance trains arrive from many other major cities including Lucknow, Allahabad, Varanasi, Vadodara, Surat, Nagpur, Bilaspur, Raipur, Patna, Ranchi, Bhubaneswar, Puri, Chennai, Bangalore, Mysore, Hyderabad, Goa, Mangalore, Kozhikode and Kochi.

The most popular option from Delhi is the Shatabdi express which departs New Delhi station at 06:05 and reaches Jaipur at 10:30.

There are three major railway stations: Jaipur Junction (main station), Durgapura and Gandhinagar (Jaipur) — which is not to be confused with the Gandhinagar that is the capital city of the state of Gujarat. All trains stop at Jaipur Junction and a few trains stop at Durgapura and Gandhinagar stations also.

By bus

There is an excellent bus service between Jaipur to Delhi by Rajasthan State Road Transport Corporation (RSRTC) with buses approximately every half an hour in both directions. From Delhi you can board the bus from Bikaner House on Pandara Road next to India Gate. From Jaipur you can board the bus from Narayan Singh Circle or the main Sindhi Camp bus stand. You can also book tickets up to 6 days in advance from both these places.

These buses typically take 6 hours for the Volvo and 6-7 hours for the others. There are also some private bus operators from Dhaula Kuan in Delhi and outside of Sindhi camp in Jaipur. No need to make advance reservations. The buses journey along bumpy backroads to avoid toll roads, and their shock absorbers are not good.

If you plan to leave from Delhi airport, you can get off the bus at Dhaula Kuan and get an autorickshaw (to the bus stand) or perhaps a taxi from there. You do not need to enter congested Delhi.

Express buses to several cities and towns within Rajasthan, such as Kota and Bundi, are also available.

By car

This is the most popular way of reaching from Delhi. The journey by car from Delhi to Jaipur takes less than 4 hr. National Highway no. 8 connects Delhi to Jaipur via the industrial township of Gurgaon. The road is excellent.

There are also many car rental services in Delhi which can provide chauffeur-driven cars to Jaipur.

Get around

It is the best and cheaper way to visit the Jaipur Local Sights by RTDC (Rajasthan Tourism Dept. Corp.) There will be one guide with each bus to give you brief info about all sights. There are three type of tours:

— full day tour (April 2015 price: INR350),
— half-day tour (April 2015 price: INR300; there are 3 different routes to choose from) and
— Pink city by night tour (April 2015 price: INR450).

By metro

Jaipur Metro provides a fast, reliable and inexpensive way to get around the city. The Pink Line runs from Mansarovar to Chandpole station, which is around 1 km from the walled old town (a.k.a the Pink City), and passes by the Jaipur Junction Railway Station and Sindhi Camp (the interstate bus stand).

Construction work is on full swing to extend the line and take passengers right into the heart of the Pink City, with two stations - Badi Chaupar and Chhoti Chaupar. The stations are supposed start running by 2018. Fares range between INR5 and INR25.

In Phase 2, a second line, the Orange Line, will connect the Jaipur Airport with the Pink City by 2021.

By autorickshaw

By and large, autorickshaw is the best way to travel around the city. Hiring an autorickshaw for a whole day with a trip to Amber Fort might have cost INR385 prepaid in April 2013.

Prepaid autos are available at the Jaipur railway station and the Sindhi Camp bus stand, although prices are a little inflated and often the same as you get with minimal bargaining.

At a certain point, the rates were revised to around INR350-400. The autorickshaw wallas will tell you to take the slip from the police booths. You can also go directly without the slip, but don't forget to bargain over the price in that case; it could be much cheaper. It'll be best if you start your sightseeing by 10:00 in the morning as some of the major spots close by 16:30 and each spot takes a lot of time, especially the forts.

Take along some of your own information about the eating and shopping places as the drivers have their fixed commissions at shops and eating outlets, so you might end up paying more for an item or eating at an undesirable place.

Autorickshaw drivers have been known to work together with the gem scammers. If you hire an autorickshaw for the day, he may suggest that you 'go for a beer' afterwards, and if you accept you will be introduced to the main man on the scam attempt, usually a very charismatic person who is clearly much wealthier than his rickshaw-driving 'friend'. Politely decline these invitations as they are invariably more trouble than they are worth.

By local bus

City bus #5 connects directly Amber Fort, Hawa Mahal, New Gate and the intersection of MI Road and Railway Rd every 10 minutes until 21:00.

City bus #2 runs from the train station up Station Road to the City Palace, Minar, Observatory, etc. The bus driver will try to charge you more. They also sometimes ask you if you need change, or say they don't have change, despite it being obvious they do.

The buses are generally overcrowded and are in a poor condition. You can view this link to learn about the bus routes in Jaipur. Fares are by distance, as show on these charts.

By cycle-rickshaw

Cycle-rickshaws are cheaper, but the amount of time it takes quickly makes it worth paying a few extra rupees and going by autorickshaw, bus or taxi. The advantage of traveling by cycle-rickshaw is that you can cover some great places in the narrow lanes of Jaipur which can not be seen if you hire some other mode of transport.

On foot

Jaipur's planned, but beautiful Old Town has wide multi-lane roads and footpaths, which also means that it is much bigger in area than its counterparts that are generally full of alleyways and small streets. Even so, the Pink City's staggering architecture and endless colorful bazaars make walking around a treat, and many points of interest, like the Hawa Mahal, City Palace and Jantar Mantar are close by each other.

By taxi

The taxis in Jaipur are very convenient and comfortable. Most of the vehicles are Maruti Omni Vans or Tata Indica cars, which are much safer than Auto rickshaws, and the drivers are polite. If you are alone or going to an unknown destination, you are strongly advised to choose this option, even though the rates will be double that of an autorickshaw. You must call for a taxi, as it is nearly impossible to hail one unless you are at a major point like the airport.

When you call, you should negotiate a fare (or agree on using the meter) and get the taxi's 'number'. The taxi will come pick you up, and call you when they are close. Taxis generally have yellow license plates with black letters. Some taxis are yellow & black, which helps to differentiate them from the private cars.

You can also try the Uber Supercabz or Ola Apps for taxi services which are not as expensive as hiring regular taxis.

By car

Car rental is one of the effective alternatives for wandering around in Jaipur. Almost all of the car rental services in India including Zoomcar, Myles and Avis offer services in Jaipur.

What to See in Jaipur

Tickets

It's possible to see the ticket price for each point of interest on the Rajasthan Tourist Government Office website

Composite tickets

There was a substantial fee increase in 2016 for the composite ticket. It now includes Amber Fort, Jantar-Mantar, Hawa Mahal, Albert Hall (Central Museum), Nahargarh Fort, Sisodia Rani Palace/Garden, Vidyadhar Garden, and Isarlat tower (Swargasuli). The Composite Ticket is for sale at all archaeological monuments and costs INR300/40 Indian adult/student and INR1000/200 foreign adult/student. The ticket is valid for two days.

Forts

• Amber Fort (11 km North of central Jaipur, local bus #5 from Hawa Mahal or New Gate), +91 14 1253 0293. 08:00-18:00. This massive fort-palace complex built in hybrid Hindu-Muslim style dates back to Raja Man Singh and was the royal palace of the Kachwahas from c. 1600-1727. It's one of six world heritage forts in Rajasthan. The name has nothing to do with the rather pretty pastel yellow colour; instead, the fort is named after the town of Amber, in turn named after the goddess Amba.

The main sights within the fort include the Sheesh Mahal, adorned with thousands on thousands of mirror tiles on the walls and ceiling. The fort/palace grounds are sprawling and the information panels (Hindi/English) are somewhat limited, so it might be worth getting an audio guide or a real guide. It's a bit of a hike up from the town, and the touristy thing to do is to ride on an elephant to the top (in order to get an elephant it is better to arrive there in the morning, otherwise at midday the elephants are done working; however, the road that the elephants walk on is not so long).

If you hire a genuine guide, you will be taken not only to the Amber Fort but also to the Rajasthan Kala Mandir (a government operated shop) to buy souvenirs. Guides get a 2% commission on the items you buy there. Also see the Amber Light Show below. The site has come under scrutiny as tourists claim to have witnessed the elephants being beaten by handlers. INR100/20 for Indian adult/student and INR500/100 for foreign adult/student. Included in the Composite Ticket.

There is a special evening viewing from 06:30-09:00, INR100 for all, Composite Ticket not valid. Camera: free. Audioguides INR150. Elephant rides: INR900. Consider not taking Elephant rides as there have been many reports of these animals not being kept and cared for in humane ways.

• Jaigarh Fort (A 1 km walk uphill from Amber Fort, or INR 100/200 for motorbike/auto-rickshaw), +91 14 1267 1848. 09:00-16:30. Never conquered in battle, this was considered the strongest of the three forts in the area. It is best known as the site of the world's largest cannon, the Jaivana, which was test-fired only once — according to legend, despite using only the half the design amount of gunpowder, the cannonball flew 35 km.

A better reason to visit the fort, though, are the scenic gardens at the other end and the spectacular views over the Amber Fort and the hills around. The remains of the foundry where the Jaivana (and many more) were cast are also in the fort grounds. There are multiple boards with "no tips allowed," in case someone is bothering you. INR35/85 for Indian/foreigner.

Camera INR50 (if you do not disclose that you have a camera and later the police/their person sees you talking a photo (e.g. with your mobile) they may ask you to show your ticket, and if you don't have one, will either ask you to buy the INR50 ticket or penalize you). Video INR200. Automobile INR50.

• Nahargarh Fort, Krishna Nagar, Brahampuri, +91 14 1518 2957. 10:00-18:00. The smallest of the three forts, notable primarily for excellent views over Man Sagar lake and the vast sprawl of Jaipur. Built in 1734 by the Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II in a mix of Indian and European styles, the fort also houses the (relatively) compact Madhavendra Bhawan palace, although its former splendour is fading under layers of graffiti and pigeon droppings. Some of the film Rang De Basanti were shot at this fort. To get to the area where the "Pathshala" song was shot, take a left turn as soon as you enter the fort.

An autorickshaw can be taken from the stand in front of the Amber fort. The fort also houses the Jaipur's Wax Museum and Sheesh Mahal, although tickets for these have to be bought separately and are ridiculously expensive. Beware if buying the Wax Museum and Sheesh Mahal combo ticket, you'll be paraded through the largely unimpressive museum and then be told to queue for the Sheesh Mahal which can last from 30 minutes to 2 hours. INR50/200 for Indians/foreigners. Included in the 5-monument Composite Ticket. INR400/INR700 (Indian/foreigners) for the tour of the Wax Museum and the Sheesh Mahal.

Palaces

• City Palace, Jaleb Chowk (Inside the old city, close to New Gate and Hawa Mahal), +91-141-4088888, +91-141-4088855. An imposing blend of traditional Rajput and Mughal architecture. It is a vast palace complex occupying nearly one-seventh of the Pink City. It was originally built by Maharaja Jai Singh II.

The complex is divided into a series of courtyards, sprawling gardens and buildings. It is home to several palatial structures like the Chandra Mahal, (home to present Maharajah of Jaipur), Mubarak Mahal (housing a textile museum), Diwan-e-Khas (or Hall of Private audience housing the two largest silver vessels in the world, the Diwan-e-Aam ( or Hall of Public Audience) and the gateway Ridhi Sidhi Pol (with four small doorways decorated with motifs depicting the four seasons). Be warned that although they sell tickets for taking photos with a camera inside, most exhibits inside have a "no photography" sign. INR75/INR300 for Indians/foreigners.

• Hawa Mahal (Palace of Breeze). 09:00-17:00. Built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Singh as part of City Palace, it was an extension of the Zenana (women's) chamber. Its purpose was to allow royal ladies to observe everyday life in the street below without being seen. It is a five storey high red sandstone structure complete with over 950 windows. The breeze (or hawa in Hindi) circulates through these windows, giving the palace its name. The iconic facade is best seen from the street, which is free. INR10/50 for Indians/foreigners. Included in the 5-monument Composite Ticket. Camera free, free on 18 May.

• Jal Mahal (Water Palace), Jal Mahal Amer Road (On the way to Amer Road). This beautiful Jal Mahal or water palace was made by the King of Amber in the middle of the Man Sagar Lake. The Jal Mahal represents the use of Mughal and Rajput architecture style. Free to view and photograph, but as of 2015, it is private property, so you probably won't be allowed to enter.

Temples

• Akshardham Temple, Vaishali Nagar.

• Birla Mandir (aka The Marble Temple) (Lakshmi Narayan Temple) (Below the well-known Moti Dungri Fort), +91 98295 95467. This is a relatively new temple made of white marble with beautiful carvings. It covers a vast area in Jaipur city and is built in a contemporary manner. Birla Temple is completely constructed with finest high quality white marbles. In addition to having statues and paintings of Hindu deities, the temple has pictures of famous philosophers from around the world including Socrates, Confucius and Zoroaster.

• Galtaji (Shree Galta Ji), 10 km from Jaipur on Jaipur-Agra highway near Sisodia Rani Garden. This temple is an ancient Hindu pilgrimage site. The main temple, Galtaji, is constructed in pink stone. The temple has a number of pavilions with rounded roofs, exquisitely carved pillars and painted walls. The temple is surrounded by natural springs and reservoirs that are considered holy. There are also seven tanks or kunds here.

• Galwar Bagh (The Monkey Temple), Eastern edge of the city (adjacent to Suriya Mandir (aka The Sun Temple)). Locals and tourists come here to feed the surprisingly tame monkeys, use the temples, and enjoy the views. You can climb to the top of the hill and then down into the valley to see the Monkey Temple, while enjoying the company of countless monkeys, goats and other animals. At the top of the hill, you turn right to reach the Sun Temple for one of the best views of the city, especially at sunset. Monkey food is available for purchase at the bottom of the hill. Entrance to the temples are free, but local religious people may ask for donations and there is a INR 50 charge for using a camera.

• Govind Devji Temple. For Vaishnavites, particularly followers of Lord Krishna, this is the most important temple in the world after Vrindavan. Lord Krishna presiding in the temple were brought to Jaipur from Vrindavan during Mughal rein. According to popular legend, Lord Krishna's idol in the temple looks exactly like Krishna's form while his incarnation of Earth. It is at Jainiwas Gardens, Jalebi Chowk, in the same campus as City Palace. The temple was constructed in 1590. Free.

• Jain Mandir (Shivdas Pura) (15-16 km from Jaipur). Jain temple in Shivdaspura, well known as “Bara Padampura”, famous in north India for its very beautiful statue of God Padamprabhu (The 6th Teerthankar for Jains). God is sitting in a crossed leg seating posture. The statue is 0.7 m high and made of pure white stone. It was found while digging for foundation of a house.

• Moti Dungri Mandir (Pearl Hill), JLN Road (City centre). Always open. This temple, dedicated to Lord Ganesha, is the main centre of religion for Jaipur people. Moti Dungri, meaning Pearl Hill, is a small hill that hosts a temple and a palace. It is said that this temple was built before construction of the rest of the city was begun, so as to protect the city.

Monuments

• Gaitore (Gatore) (In the walled city area named Brahmpuri, the foothills of Nahargarh Fort). A royal cremation site of the rulers of Jaipur.

• Iswari Minar Swarga Sal, Chandpol Bazaar near City Palace (Look for the big tall tower near Tripolia Gate. The entrance is not from the main street, but is around the back of the shops. You can get there from the alley that’s 50 m west of the minaret along Chandpol Bazaar, there's also an entrance near the City Palace, which is 50m west of Tripolia Gate and 200 m east of the minaret). A minar (minaret) with great views of Jaipur. There is an alternative to the minar that's open 24/7. Just across the other side of the road (Chandpol Bazaar) from the minaret is a shopping complex with stairs up to a rooftop area where you can get basically the same view as from the minar.

To get there, go through the arched gateway almost opposite the minar, then as soon as you get to the courtyard, look to the left for a metal spiral staircase and keep climbing until you reach the roof, walk around the corridor to the next set of stair and go up another floor until you know you can't go any higher. Indian/foreigner: INR5/10, camera/video: INR10/20.

• Jantar Mantar (very close to the City Palace), +91 141-261-0494. 9:00-17:00. This UNESCO world heritage site is the largest of five astronomical observatories build by Maharaja Jai Singh during the period 1727-1734 in north India. The observatory consists of fourteen major geometric devices (or yantras in Hindi) for measuring time, predicting eclipses, tracking stars in their orbits, ascertaining the declinations of planets and determining the celestial altitudes etc.

There is signage providing elaborate explanations for the use of each device, and guides can be hired to provide much the same information in a more digestible format. The audio guide at the observatory isn't great and doesn't tell you very much more information than the already existent signs. The observatory, the water and the wind palace are free on 18 May. INR40 for Indians, INR200 for foreigners.

• Panna Meena Ka Kund Stepwell (Near Anokhi Museum and Amber Fort). People come here to get water, swim or hang out with their loved ones.

Gardens

• Ram Niwas Garden (Albert Hall), exact city centre. Built in 1868 by Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh of Jaipur, this garden contains a bird park, zoo, Ravindra Rang Manch Theatre, art gallery, exhibition ground, gymnasium and several cafes and picnic spots.

• Sisodia Rani Palace and Garden. 08:00-20:00. This palace was established by Sawai Jai Singh for his queen Sisodia, rulers of one of the oldest kingdoms of India. There are tiered multi-level gardens with fountains, watercourses and painted pavilions. A double-storeyed palace occupies the top terrace of the garden. The palace has many galleries, pavilions and beautiful murals depicting scenes from the life of lord Krishna. INR20/50 for Indians/foreigners.

• Vidyadhar Garden. 09:00-17:00. The garden is a real treat for those who want to see a fusion of Mughal and Hindu culture. INR20/50 for Indians/foreigners.

• Zoological Garden (inside Ram Niwas Bagh). 09:00-17:00. In the serene environment of Ram Niwas Bagh, this garden is prized for its rich flora and fauna. INR10/100 for Indians/foreigners.

Museums

• Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing (Kheri Gate, Amber), +91 141 2530226. Tu-Sa 10:30-17:00; Su 11:00-16:30. A beautiful clean museum dedicated to the traditional art of hand block printing textiles, this museum is housed in a restored heritage haveli tucked into the back streets of old Amber. Small cafe (see "Eat"), clean toilets, small shop selling hand printed contemporary wearable clothes and textiles, friendly staff and a printer and block carver demonstrating their crafts every day.

• Central Museum (Albert Hall), Ramniwas Bag, Adarsh Nagar (Inside Ram Nivas Garden). 09:00-17:30. A fine example of Indo-Saracenic architecture, this building was designed by Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob and was opened as public museum in 1887. Maharaja Ram Singh wanted this building to be a town hall, but his successor, Madho Singh II, decided it should be a museum for the art of Jaipur and included as part of the new Ram Nivas Garden.

The museum has a rich collection of artefacts like paintings, carpets, ivory, stone, metal sculptures and colourful crystal works. It is named after King Edward VII (Albert Edward), during whose visit to the city as the Prince of Wales, its foundation stone was laid on 6 February 1876. INR20/150 for Indians/foreigners. Included in the 5-monument Composite Ticket.

Other

• Statue Circle, C-Scheme, Ashok Nagar (Intersection of Bhagwan Das Rd and Prithviraj Rd). Statue Circle is exactly what it sounds like: a roundabout that contains a statue that is beautifully lit up at night.

What to Do in Jaipur

• Amber Fort Sound and Light Show, Lower Amber Fort, +91 14 1270 9162, e-mail: sel.amber@ids.co.in. 19:00-20:00. Experience the history, culture and life of Amber through this spectacular show. Amitabh Bachhan narrates the story of Rajasthani kings with a script written by Gulzar. Don't forget the mosquito repellent. The light show can be watched from outside the fort, but the sound won't be audible from there. There is also a sound and light show at Jantar Mantar for INR100. INR200.

• B.M. Birla Auditorium and Conference Hall, Birla Institute of Scientific Research, Statue Circle, +91-141-2385224, fax: +91-141-2385121, e-mail: seemachopra25@yahoo.com. These are at the heart of Jaipur. This auditorium is spread over 9.8 acres and includes a computer centre, interactive science museum, an information processing centre, library, a processing planetarium, eight research divisions, a dissemination cell and an auditorium. The auditorium has a seating capacity of 1,350 and is among the largest in India. This auditorium is built up to international conference standards. However, people visiting Jaipur for leisure are likely to be most interested in the Planetarium (all shows in Hindi) or Science Museum (under renovation as of November 2015) that are part of the complex.

• Rajmandir Cinema, C-16, Panch Batti, Bhagwan Das Rd, C-Scheme, +91-141-2374694, +91-141-2379372. An experience in itself, and another "don't miss". Once known as the best cinema India, and still the best in Rajasthan, it offers an overwhelming experience. From the pushing, shoving, and general chaos in the ticket queue, to an audience that laughs, cries, cheers, claps, and consistently talks through the entire film, the Rajmandir provides an insight into Rajasthani culture.

The films can be interesting; Masala movies are action, drama, mystery, suspense, and epics all wrapped into one single film, teeming with dances and obligatory wet sari scenes, and unabashedly lifting generous amounts of plot devices from Western films. The theatre-goers are very friendly and genuinely curious about overseas visitors who come to the Raj.

Don't be put off by "House Full" notices at the entrance. The box office opens again a nominal 45 minutes before the next performance, and there are usually tickets available. Box seats at INR 120 go first, so its worth going early to avoid disappointment. Shows at 12:30, 15:30, 18:30 and 21:30. A great place to meet locals, with the nearby McDonald's as a central congregation spot.

• Heiwa Heaven The Resort (Heiwa Heaven), Jaisinghpura Khor, Jamdoli Chauraha, Agra Road, Jaipur, Rajasthan (Jaisinghpura Khor, Jamdoli Chauraha, Agra Road), +91 9828844474, e-mail: info@heiwaheaven.com. Heiwa Heaven is a Jaipur-based luxury resort that hosts parties and destination weddings.

Nearby

• Chokhi Dhani, 12 Miles Tonk Road, Via Vatika, +91-141-516 5000, +91-141-516 5015, +91-9667222203, e-mail: cdrajasthani@chokhidhani.com. The restaurants are open from 17:00-23:00. Around 18 km from Central Jaipur on the Jaipur-Tonk highway, Chokhi Dhani (Fine Hamlet in Rajasthani dialect) is a kind of virtual village and also a 5-star resort. There are lodging facilities available, but the real attraction is the evening fun-fairs.

There are two excellent places to enjoy Rajasthani food served in the traditional mode at their resort. Chokhi Dhani a.k.a. Lalten Restaurant is a more popular place because it is on the main road near the airport and also has other attractions, such as horseback riding, camel riding, bullock cart rides, a maze, boating and kathputli (puppet) shows.

One can also watch live folk dances and listen to live folk music for free. It gives you a glimpse of culture from different parts of Rajasthan, and could be nice if you will not have time to see much of Rajasthan yourself. It opens at 17:00, and be sure to get here early as many of the sites are difficult to see when it gets dark. It's a 30-min rickshaw ride from Central Jaipur, or you can go there by bus or taxi, but you are best off making sure you have a ride back.

Consider buying the pass for AC hall. This is because the outdoor seating is a self-served buffet, while in the AC Dining you'll be served food. This makes a massive difference when there's too many people at the restaurant as tons of people start burgeoning over the buffet stalls and the restaurant is unable to keep up the order and the demand.

If you would prefer to sleep at the resort, have a look at their accommodation. Avoid going there during the rainy season. Traditional Rajasthani dining: Adult: INR700; Kids up to 3.5 feet high: INR350; AC Royal Rajasthani Dining: Adult: INR900; Kids up to 3.5 feet high: INR500; Multicuisine buffet: Adult: INR950; Children up to 1 m tall: INR650. Rooms: INR5999-34999/night per double room.

Festivals

• The Gangaur Festival of Jaipur is well known in India. It starts on the day after Holi (March or April) and lasts for 18 days. In Jaipur, a sweet dish called a ghewar is characteristic of the Gangaur festival. People buy ghewar to eat and distribute among their friends and relatives.

The celebration is dedicated to the God Shiva and his consort, the Goddess Parvati. A procession with the image of Gauri commences from the Zanani-Deodhi of the City Palace. It then passes through Tripolia Bazaar, Chhoti Chaupar, Gangauri Bazaar, Chaugan stadium and finally converges near the Talkatora.

Buy

Nothing is 'fixed price' in Jaipur, even in the self advertised government (RTDC) approved shops & emporiums. There are a few RTDC approved shops along "Amer Road" claiming to be government-owned and 'fixed price', but beware: they are frequently overpriced by as much as three times. Almost everything, from food to transportation to handicrafts, even accommodation can be bargained down to as much as a 60% discount off the quoted price.

The lowest rates will be found in the bazaars of Bapu & Johari. Even here, keep inquiring in several shops as each one will have a different price for the same item. Don't be ashamed to spend an hour or more in each shop with the friendly shop owners sharing stories over masala chai as you look at their goods. While they are doing their best to run a business, do not overlook the genuinely hospitable culture of Rajasthani people.

Jaipur has tens of bazaars of different sizes and specializing in different products. Expect a brilliant, colourful explosion of flowers, elephants, ox carts, and wares; a complete assault on the senses. The traveller will smell the deep aroma of spices in canvas bags, the fetid smell of animals and open sewers, the sweet waft of tea, and the crusty acrid burn of dust and exhaust. There are different specialist zones, whether it's food, flowers, textiles, carved statues or plumbing. It is chaotic and noisy, people may stare if you are a Westerner, and anybody who has something to sell will try to sell it to you, repeatedly.

Watch cobras dance out of their wicker baskets, and don't be too surprised if the snake charmer slaps his cobra for having a wayward eye. Be prepared to be asked for money if you plan to take photographs of snake-charmers and beggars. While you should always be wary, be sure not to completely close yourself out to the locals as one of the highlights of Rajasthan is the chance to interact with the friendly people.

Bapu Bazaar and Nehru bazaar. Bapu and Nehru bazaars are for budget and traditional shoppers. They are popular and chaotic bazaars selling many different items ranging from handicrafts to western outfits.

Johari Bazaar and Chameliwala Market. Johari bazaar and Chameliwala Market both best known as jewellery bazaars. There are hundreds of shops lined up in each bazaar selling jewellery of all types. Local jewellery along with authentic gems and stones can also be purchased.

Jaipur also has other markets like Civil Lines Market and MI Road and nearby markets. It also has a few malls like Crystal Palm Shopping Mall, Gaurav Towers, MGF Metropolitan Mall, Pink Square Mall, Triton Mall and World Trade Park.

Jewels

Jaipur is famous for its many jewel merchants where you can get great deals on semi-precious gems such as turquoise, lapiz, tiger eye and the star ruby (a gem found only in India that is distinctive for the 6-pointed star it shines under natural light).

Rajais

Jaipur is famous for its 'rajais', a type of light quilt stuffed with cotton. You can get colourful & soft `Shaneel ki Rajai' in a velvet finish. These are quiet warm, soft and long lasting. You can shop in the main market area. But remember to bargain. To be confident of quality, and are willing to pay a little more, visit government stores for rajais.

Eat

Budget

Sweet

• Gangaur Sweets, J-32, Subash Marg, C-Scheme, +91-141-382-835. Sweets for chamcham, also baked sweets and crispy samosas. INR180-580 per order.

• Jal Mahal, 85, MI Road (Near Panch Batti), +91-141-2373520, e-mail: info@jalmahalicecreamparlour.com. A popular ice-cream parlor on MI Rd. An assortment of ice cream shakes, and some very indigenous ice cream flavors. Excellent after a hearty meal at one of the MI Rd restaurants.

• Zolocrust, (Hotel Clarks Amer, Jawaharlal Nehru Marg, Near Malviya Nagar). The gourmet bakery and italian restraunt is operated by chefs of Hotel Clarks Amer and serves exquisite bakery items, it also serves vegan and vegetarian food.

Savoury

• Anokhi Cafe, 2nd Floor, KK Square, C-11 Prithviraj Road, +91 141 400 7245. Mostly organic non-Indian-style ("international flavour") home-style cakes, freshly prepared sandwiches, pastries, savoury snacks plus organic coffee and a selection of good teas. Quiet, relaxing, good value for money, situated outside the Anokhi shop (see Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing listing in "See"). Salads: INR120-200; sandwiches and savoury dishes: INR150-300; desserts: INR80-230; beverages: INR25-250.

• Ambrosia, In the Hotel Ramsingh Palace, B 2, Hathi Babau Ka Bagh, Kanti Nagar, Banipark (Right next to Statue Circle), +91 141 3153900. Open 24 hours. Serving vegetarian and vegan, Chinese food and barbecue atop a 100-foot-high building providing a breathtaking view of the city.

• Old Take Away, 146, Subhash Corner, MI Roa, +91 9828101014. Various chicken and mutton dishes for take-away. INR130-400 for main dishes.

• Peacock Rooftop Restaurant, 51, Hari Kishan Somani Marg (at Hotel Pearl Palace), +91 94 14 236323. Daily 07:30-23:30. A rooftop restaurant serving Indian, Western and Chinese food. Fast service and good value. Soups and salads: INR95-195; Tandoori starters: INR245-495; Vegetarian mains: INR185-325; Non-veg mains: INR295-615; Continental cuisine: INR295-395; etc.

• Rawat Mishthan Bhandar, Opposite Polo Victory Cinema, Station Road, Sindhi Camp (Very close to railway station and bus stand), +91-141-236-7460. Do not miss the famous Pyaz ki Kachori, a spicy onion dish. Nothing on the menu costs more than INR250, including thalis, except for a special INR450 tasting menu.

Mid-range

• Apno Gaon, 14, New Loha Mandi, Sikar Road, Vishwakarma Industrial Area, +91 941 334 3477. 11:00-23:00. Vegetarian food, including fresh vegetables and fruits. Slightly away from the main city: One has to go on a bumpy ride to reach there. INR330 for lunch or dinner thali.

• Four Seasons Restaurant, D-43A, Subhash Marg, C Scheme, +91 141 237 5221. 11:00-22:30. Indian and Chinese food, among the most popular vegetarian restaurants in Jaipur. Most main dishes cost INR100-200; Thalis: INR250-300.

• Handi Restaurant, Maya Mansion, Opp GPO, MI Rd, +91 141 237 2275. 12:00-15:30, 19:00-23:00. Specialising in meat dishes; chicken, mutton, kebab, tandoori and the super spicy Rajasthani speciality lal maas. INR171-562 for mains dishes.

• Little Italy, C/11, K.K. Square, Prithviraj Marg, C-Scheme, +91 141 402 3444. 12:00-22:30. Part of a chain with restaurants around India and some other Asian countries, as the name reveals, this is a place to go to for Italian food. Wide selection of pizza, pasta and other typical Italian food, also some Mexican dishes. Large range of wines. pizzas and pastas are mostly in the INR300-500 range.

• LMB, LMB Hotel & Restaurant, 100 Johari Bazaar. 08:00-23:00. Good mid-range north Indian vegetarian restaurant. The restaurant sells good sweets and chat, Indian sweet and savory snacks, and is most famous for its Aloo ki Tikiya and Paneer Ghewar. Snacks, sandwiches, pizza: INR50-310; breakfasts are mostly INR130-280; lunch and dinner mains: INR190-430; sweets: INR60-200.

• Loharu House, +91-141-222-5251, +91-141-222-5945. This is the house of a Royal Family in Civil Lines. Primarily a hotel, but they also serve food. You can call in advance and request a special dinner. Otherwise, dinners are served for in-house guests.

• Mamu's Infusion (Mamu's Cafe), 101, 1st Floor, Mangalam Ambition Tower, Subhash Marg, C Scheme, +91 141 5108290. 11:00-23:00. Serves Indian, Italian, Mexican, Chinese, Thai and Middle Eastern dishes. Quirky decor, large servings and friendly staff. Starters: INR180-425; soup: INR170-190; salad: INR210-295; pizza: INR370-450; pasta: INR350-475; risotto: INR320-430; Mexican items: INR190-350.

• Natraj, Panch Batti, M.I. Road, +91 141-237-5804, e-mail: natrajrestaurant@rediffmail.com. Vegetarian, speciality is the Rajasthani thali. Credit cards are accepted and they do not serve alcohol. They also have a mithai (sweets) shop. Thalis are INR200-450.

• Okra, Ashram Marg, Jawahar Circle (at Jaipur Marriott Hotel), +91 141 4567777. Both a large buffet and a la carte. Reservations are required. Appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches, pasta, pizza, risotto: INR225-535; Western mains: INR575-1675; Indian and other Asian mains: INR210-695.

• Zodiac, Fortune Park Bella Casa, Cityplex, 1, Ashram Marg, Tonk Road (in the MGF Metropolitan Mall), +91 141 2720532. 24 hr. A buffet restaurant with North Indian dishes. Mains: INR225-450.

Splurge

• 1135 AD Amber, Amer Road (Amber Fort), +91 98290 37170, e-mail: headoperations1135ad@gmail.com. 11:00-23:00. Upscale restaurant in the Amber Fort complex. They serve traditional Rajasthani cuisine in royally decorated dining rooms. Mains: INR425-1,500.

• Chandravanshi Pavillion, Palace Road (At the ITC Rajputana hotel), +91 141 5100100. 24 hr. Fine dining, western cuisine. Approximately INR1,800 for 2 people.

• Cinnamon, Jacob Road, Civil Lines, (at Jai Mahal Palace), +91 141 222 3636. 12:30-15:00, 19:00-23:00. Northern Indian cuisine in a romantic setting, however they are reportedly a bit overpriced. Approximately INR3,000 for 2 people.

• Niros, MI Rd, +91-141-237-4493, fax: +91-141-2371746, e-mail: restaurant@nirosindia.com. Niros is a 60-year-old restaurant serving mostly Indian and Indo-Chinese dishes. Opinions are divided between those who laud the restaurant and others who consider it overpriced and more hype than quality. Mains: INR260-770.

• Steam (at Taj Rambagh palace), +91 141 2211919. 19:00-23:45. A train turned into an Italian restaurant, on the grounds of the Taj Rambagh palace. Popular among the upper class of Jaipur, they are also famous for their pizzas. INR1,400 per person.

Drink

Bars & Pubs

• Amigos Bar & Discoteque, Church Road, MI Road (at Hotel OM Tower), +91 141 404 6666. 12:00-16:30, 19:00-00:00. Mexico-themed bar at the 9th floor of the OM Tower hotel, in the adjoining room there's a dance floor. Apparently a wider range of beverages and cocktails than at restaurants.

• Colorbar, Radisson Blu, Plot 5 & 6, Airport Plaza,Tonk Road, Durgapura, +91 141 5198845, e-mail: colorbar@rdjaipur.com. 20:00-23:00. On the top of the roof of Radission Blu Airport hotel, with nice views of the planes landing and taking off. Barbecue, pool and interesting luminescent chairs and tables.

• The Courtyard, SB-59, 4th & 5th Floor, UDB Tower, University Marg, Tonk Road, +91 141 3319405. 11:00-23:00. Beer, cocktails and wine; however their food has got some very negative reviews. The rooftop section is popular among younger patrons, while the indoor restaurant is good for families too.

• District 9 Lounge, E-20, Prem Plaza, Girdhar Marg, Opposite Reliance Fresh, +91 141 2553903. 12:00-23:00. Rooftop and indoor seating. More of a restaurant than a bar, with dishes from all over the world ranging from spring rolls to pizzas and fajitas to burritos. INR100-200 for a pint, food INR150-250.

• Drop Zone Lounge Bar, 14/82 & 83, Niti Nagar, Opposite Capt Amit Bhardwaj Petrol Pump, Malviya Nagar, +91 141 2723594, +91 141 3155220. 11:00 to 23:00. A bar with a pleasant rooftop seating with fantastic views, and they serve food as well. Approx INR600 for two (without alcohol), VAT extra.

• Henry’s – The Pub, Park Prime Hotel, Prithviraj road, Near Statue Circle, +91 141 236 0202, e-mail: ppj@parkprime.in. 12:00-23:30. Cozy pub in the basement of the Prime Park Hotel, reportedly great for an evening out with your friends. Many different snacks and cocktails. On the downside some guests find the service is a bit slow.

• Hightz, Hotel Man Singh, Sansar Chandra Rd, +91 141 236 0382. More of an upscale restaurant, serving Rajasthani and Chinese food. Meals and drinks for two INR1700.

• Replay, SB-57, Riddhi Tower, 5th Floor , Opposite SMS Stadium, +91 141 403 1026. 11:00-00:00. Bar, restaurant and lounge with Mexican and Italian cuisine. Different sitting areas, which makes it a good place for private events.

Night clubs

• 3D's Restro Lounge, A2 Corporate Tower, Near Jawahar Circle, +91 9166048000, e-mail: 3drestrolounge@gmail.com. 11:00-23:00. A lounge bar with two restaurants (fine dining and casual). A good place to hang out with your friends, and fairly popular among students.

• Blackout, 9th floor, Golden Oak Hotel, Landmark Building, Ahinsa Circle, C Scheme (at Golden Oak Hotel), +91 96801 67016. 11:00-00:00. Bar and nightclub popular with the party crowd, though their food is apparently not very good. Great views of the city from the rooftop lounge.

• Club Seven, The Byke Grassfield Resort, Kishan Nagar , Near Bansal Hospital, +91 9549876525. A nightclub with electronic music and different events every few weeks at the Byke Grassfield Resort, some 6-7 km southwest of the city centre.

• Duplay, MI Road (Country Inn & Suites By Carlson Hotel, Ground Floor), +91 141 4033300. W 21:00-14:00, F Sa 21:00-03:00. Popular nightclub with two dance floors for Bollywood and electronic dance music. Wide choice of drinks, though less so with non-alcoholic.

• Waves (Wavs), Hotel Maharani Palace, Station Rd, +91 141 220 4702. 13:00-00:00. Bar and nightclub, the place to go if you want to party. They have a selection of food too. Special events during times like New Year or Valentine's Day. drinks from INR135.

• House of People (HOP), Hotel Las Vegas, A1, Sehkar Marg, Bais Godam, +91 141 3391479. 11:00-13:00. House of People is a nightclub offering a wide variety of drinks and an amazing lounge to hang out. A pint of beer would cost about INR250. It also attracts good gentry in general.

Sleep

Budget

Jaipur being a prime destination for the tourists of all ages, both international and domestic, has a plethora of budget accommodation options. Almost all of the pan-Indian hostel chains are present in the city, including Zostel, Moustache, Backpacker Panda, Roadhouse and others.

• Atithi Guest House, 1 Park House Scheme (Opposite All India Radio, 2 blocks from M.I. Road), +91 141 237-8679, +91 141 237-9496, e-mail: atithijaipur@hotmail.com. Check-out: 12:00. A nice, modern and very clean hotel a few minutes from the Pink City. Has a simple restaurant, laundry service, Wi-Fi (check on current rates, which are not posted on their site).

Be careful of rickshaw/taxi drivers as they don't get a commission here so may try to bring you somewhere else. Standard Room: INR1,000 single occupancy; INR1,100 double occupancy; Large Room: INR1,100 - 1,200 single; INR1,200 - 1,300 double; Air-Conditioned Room: INR1,400 single; INR1,600 double; Extra bed: INR350.

• Bhim Vilas, 1 Gopinath Marg (Behind G.P.O.). Family-run guesthouse in the heart of the city, with 8 A/C rooms. The service is friendly and it is also excellent value for money. Standard Room: INR1800 single; INR2000 double; Deluxe Room: INR2000 single; INR2500 double; Super Deluxe Room: INR2500 single; INR2999 double; Suite: INR2850 single; INR2850 double; Extra Bed: INR500.

• Chit Chat Palace, D-160 Kabir Marg, Bani Park, +91-141-2201-899, +91-141-2202-843, e-mail: chitchat07@hotmail.com. Airport/rail station/bus station pick up available, nice restaurant. Standard double with fan and hot/cold shower: INR1,500; Family room: INR2,000.

• Explorer's Nest, +91-99-285-17801, e-mail: jaipurtravel@yahoo.com. Bed & breakfast by a couple fond of visitors, and of guiding them about their city. The house has ethnic decor and is in a quiet place 5 min walk from the centre. The rooms have air-conditioning and wifi. Rooms INR600-800/night.

• Hotel Kalyan, Hathroi Fort, Ajmer Rd (1 km from railway station), +91-141-2368355, +91-9314501591, fax: +91-141-4015919, e-mail: hotelkalyan@yahoo.co.in. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. 2-star hotel with a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. Free parking and pickup is available from the train station and central bus stand. Tasty restaurant and good service. INR850-950 for non-air-con double room; INR1200-2595 for air-con double room; bigger rooms are available for up to 4 guests.

• Hotel Malak Mahal, 54, Near Jal Mahal, Amer Rd, +91 8890825040, +91 88908 25040, e-mail: hotelmalakmahal@yahoo.com. 45 rooms, an in-house restaurant and reserved parking spaces. Free Wi-Fi, air-con rooms with attached washrooms and a nice guest service system. Their reservation phone number is covered 24/7. Heritage Deluxe: INR1500 (double occupancy)/Negotiable; Heritage Suite: INR2000 (double occupancy)/Negotiable; both tariffs include taxes and breakfast.

• Hotel Ramsingh Palace, B-2, Hathi Babu Ka Bagh, Kanti Nagar, +91 141 4005191 (Mr. Mahendra Singh), e-mail: info@hotelramsinghpalace.com. Check-out: 12:00 noon. Comfortable beds, each room comes with LCDTV with multiple channels. Walking distance to the train station and central bus stand. Airport/rail station/bus station pick up available, multi-cuisine restaurant. Deluxe room: INR1700-2200; Super Deluxe room: INR2000-2500; Family Suite: INR2800-3800; Extra bed: INR250-500.

• Hotel Sangam, 17 Motilal Atal Rd, +91 141 237179192, e-mail: hotelsangam@rediffmail.com. Good mattress, TV, restaurant, includes breakfast toast. INR1,000 for non-air-con room; air-con rooms starting at INR1,500.

• Hotel Shikha (Hotel Shikha Jaipur), R-14, Yudhishthir Marg, C-Scheme, Jaipur-302001 (2.3 km from railway station (10 minute drive), 2.8 km from sindhi camp bus stand (10 minute drive) and 10 kms from Jaipur airport (25 minute drive)), +91 141 4031212, +91 9582221212, e-mail: info@hotelshikha.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. The only hotel in Jaipur that is opposite to the deer park in c-scheme. Cafe Coffee Day lounge on the premises with Rock Pub and discotheque. Special offers on website. INR1899 "best deal" as of summer, 2016.

• Jaipur Inn, B-17, Shiv Marg, Bani Park, +91-141-2201121, e-mail: info@jaipurinn.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Hot water, air-con, TV, heater, and telephone in every room. The hotel also has a backup power generator and a lift. Nice rooftop bar with great views over the city. All room rates include rooftop Wi-Fi and free cancellation. They can also serve food. During low season (April/May/June), 50% discount if you stay 2 days or more. Standard Room (non-air-con): INR1250; Deluxe Room: INR1500; Super Deluxe Room: INR2000; Luxury Room: INR2950; Service Apartment (3 rooms): INR5000.

• Karni Niwas, C-5 Motilal Atal Road (Behind Neelam Hotel), +91 141 2365433, e-mail: enquiry@hotelkarniniwas.com. Good budget hotel. Very clean with hot water, quiet room. Restaurant, includes continental breakfast. INR650-1,000.

• Krishna Palace, E-26, Durga Marg, Bani Park, +91 141 2201395, +91 94 14311252, e-mail: info@krishnapalace.com. Heritage property which looks like a palace. Nice garden, quiet and very clean. Traditional-style spacious rooms with private bath and hot shower. 24-hr service. Comfortable beds, each room comes with colour TV with all channels. Roof top and garden restaurant available. Walking distance to the train station. Managed by a friendly family. Very quiet and relaxing neighbourhood surrounded by greenery. Pickup service from the train and central bus station is free of charge. Standard (non-air-con): INR850 single/INR950 double; Deluxe air-con: INR1350 single/INR1450 double; Superior air-con: INR1500 single/INR1750 double.

• Moon Light Palace, S-34, Shanti Nagar, Near Labour Court, Opp. NBC, +91 141-2450753, +91 141 6508059, e-mail: hotelmoonlightpalace@gmail.com. It's clean with solid Wi-Fi. Free pick up from station. Restaurant has a wide range of food. From INR2100/day.

• Pink City Guest House, 18 Motilal Atal Rd, +91 141-5106184. Clean rooms and good value with reliable hot water, TV and Wi-Fi - just ask the guy at the reception. Steps away from bus station and few min walk from old town and/or rail station. Female manager speaks great English, her number is 9829 804048. Five stores down the road south on that side of the street is an amazing vegetarian restaurant Mohal's which does great cheapish food. Make sure you get one of the rooms facing the quiet backstreet. The hotel lacks its own website, and current tariffs seem to be impossible to find online. As of 2012 or so, they charged INR400-700 for a double room, with off season rates of INR250 for a very basic room without attached bathroom.

• Satkar Hotel, 187, Barodia Scheme, Banipark (Near railway station and bus stand), +91 94 14255755, +91 14 12202020. Check-in: 11:00., check-out: 12:00. Family run budget hotel, free pick up from railway station, bus stand, free Wi-Fi. Air-con and non-air-con rooms with attached bathrooms and TV. Hot shower, food, travel desk, laundry, 5 min walk from railway station. Not especially clean, ceiling fan noisy. Laundry is available for a charge. Walking distance to the bus station in a seedy neighbourhood. A/C Single: INR900; A/C Double: INR1250.

• Sunder Palace Guest House, No. 46, Sanjay Marg, Near Hathroi Fort, +91 141 2360178, e-mail: sunderpalace@hotmail.com. Clean rooms, great service, convenient location, a rooftop restaurant, a lovely garden area and a terrace. Tiled double room with cable TV, big bathroom with hot water and a Persian carpet area with a small table where you can sip tea and read. Internet available, but there was a charge for this service a few years ago, so enquire. Starting at INR1,450 for air-con double room. Zostel, First Floor, 85-A, Rajamal Ka Talab, Icici Bank Building, Chandi ki Taksal, Opposite Tourist Police Station, +91 11 3958 9005, e-mail: reservations@zostel.com. Backpacker hostel.

Mid-range

In Jaipur

• Anuraag Villa, D-249, Near Collectorate Circle, +91-141-2201679, fax: +91-141-4025096, e-mail: info@anuraagvilla.com. 3-star hotel situated 15min by rickshaw from the city centre. Peaceful place to relax with clean, comfortable rooms and free Wi-Fi Onsite restaurant offers very good vegetarian options Rajasthani style. Starting at INR1650 for air-con doubles; INR2050 for double with garden view.

• Arya Niwas, Sansar Chandra Rd (behind Amber Towers), +91 141 237 2456, +91 141 237 1773, +91 141 510 6010, fax: +91 141 236 1871, e-mail: tarun@aryaniwas.com. A feudal lord's mansion converted into a hotel with the ambience of a stately home. Centrally located, family managed, cafeteria serving decent vegetarian food and a garden to relax in during the evenings. Starting at INR1445 for an air-con double room, taxes not included. Buffet breakfast: INR190 per person every day; buffet dinner, available only on weekends: INR225/person.

• Colonel's Homestead Jaipur, 10 & 11 Cosmo Colony, Ram Marg, Amrapali Rd, Vaishali Nagar (near Vaibav Inox Multiplex), +91 99 8379 6656, e-mail: colonelshomesteadjaipur@gmail.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Run by a retired army colonel and his wife, who hails from a royal family of Rajasthan, a peaceful place to stay adjoining 50 acres of bird-filled nature. Home-cooked meals available, and good advice on attractions and shopping. INR1500/night for a double room; all rooms are air conditioned.

• Hotel Classic Holidays, A-79, Shyam Nagar, Sodala, Ajmer Rd, +91 141 229 3890, fax: +91 141 229 3999, e-mail: hotelclassicholidays@gmail.com. In a residential area with peaceful, clean, green surroundings. Starting at INR1200/night for double rooms.

• Hotel Mandakini Castle, Sansar Chandra Rd, +91 141 2371779. 3-star hotel. 12 superior rooms and 26 suites. All are fitted with a private bath with hot & cold water, cable/sat TV, and broadband internet connection. The travel desk, 50-capacity conference area, complimentary transfer services. It is not easy to find current room rates, but the hotel gets mixed reviews from guests. Double room prices as of June 2012 were INR1,990-3,390 plus taxes. Breakfast included.

• Hotel Meghniwas, C-9, Sawai Jai Singh Highway, Bani Park, +91 141 2202034, e-mail: email@meghniwas.com. It also has a garden and a swimming pool, which is free for guests and open to non-guests for a charge. Doubles starting at INR3,800.

• Hotel Sarang Palace, A- 40, Subhash Nagar Rd, Near Peetal Factory, +91 141 2281199, e-mail: reservation@hotelsarangpalace.com. 3-star heritage hotel, offers free pick up from train and bus station. Starting at INR1,650 for doubles without breakfast and INR1,950 including breakfast.

• Loharu House, Civil Lines, +91 141 222 5251, +91 141 222 5945. This property belongs to the Royal Family of Loharu and they rent out a few rooms. The place is quaint and beautiful and the rooms are well appointed. The service also has the touch of personal care and warmth. A plus side is the cooks are excellent and put together some fine dinners. Doubles INR4,580-5,150/night including tax and "sumptuous meals".

• Milestone 251, Near Collectorate Circle, D-251, Devi Marg, Bani Park, +91 96107 1000, e-mail: reservations@milestone251.com. Near the railway station in Bani Park area. Double rooms start at INR2,100.

• Sumati Villa, 7, Shubham Enclave, Jamnalal Bajaj Marg (near Civil Line Crossing), +91 141 5140965, +91 141 5125176, +91 98 29055772. A budget guest house in the heart of the city. INR1,500-3,500.

• Umaid Bhawan, D1-2A, Behari Marg, Bani Park, +91 141 2206426, fax: +91 141 2207445, e-mail: reservation@umaidbhawan.com. A nicely restored heritage hotel with clean, comfortable rooms, many with balconies. Beautifully decorated, it looks like a mini-palace. It has a roof-top restaurant with views of the rising sun in the morning and the setting sun in the evening. The swimming pool is on the ground floor, and it's cold in the off-season. The friendly and helpful staff will arrange airport/train station pickup. Great value, a great place. Doubles start at INR2,199.

• Umaid Mahal, C-20 / B-2, Bihari Marg, Sawai Jai Singh Highway, Opp. Lane of K.P. Automotives, Bani Park, +91 141 220 1952. A very nice heritage house hotel with 3-star facilities and also offers free pick up from train and bus station. Doubles start at INR2,199.

• Pride hotel in Jaipur (Pride Amber Vilas), Pride Jaipur (Tonk Road), +91-141-2777077, e-mail: centralreservations@pridehotel.com. INR 4000.

In Amber

• Mosaics Guest House, Siyaram ki Doongri, Amber, Jaipur, +91-141-2530031, +91-9950457218, e-mail: mosaicsguest.house@gmail.com. INR3800 double, INR3300 single.

Splurge

• Lohagarh Fort Resort Jaipur, Kachera Wala, Kukas (NH-8) (Via Delhi-Jaipur National Highway), +91 8003395955, e-mail: sales@lohagarhfortresort.com. Lohagarh Fort Resort Jaipur is situated in 13 acres of green lush mountain area in Kukas, a 50-minute drive from Jaipur. They have cottages with private pool, tree houses and a Swiss tent. Apart from accommodation they offer spa & massage and their pool is one of the biggest in the city. The in-house restaurant is as big as a normal hotel and it has entertained celebrities like Jonty Rhodes and IPL cheerleaders. From INR5,787; Airport shuttle fee: INR2,500 per vehicle (round trip).

• Naila Bagh Palace (Heritage home hotel), Moti Doongari Road (Landmark), +91 141 260 7492, e-mail: reservation@nailabaghpalace.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Heritage home built in 1872 by the Prime Minister of Jaipur (Late Thakur Fateh Singh ji of Naila), currently owned and managed by his 7th-generation descendants. It is surrounded with sprawling gardens and open spaces on all sides; the large front courtyard provides ample seating space for our visitors along with providing a calm and serine ambience.

One of Jaipur's oldest heritage buildings and home the erstwhile Prime Minister, Thakur Fateh Singh Ji. Surrounded with gardens and open spaces on all sides, large front courtyard provides ample seating, antique chandeliers, original frescos, colonial furniture and a heritage of family history on display. Swimming pool, modest gym, Wi-Fi in some areas. From INR4,200 including breakfast, taxes excluded.

• Oberoi Rajvilas Palace Hotel, Goner Rd, +91 141 268 0101, fax: +91 141 268 0202, e-mail: gm@oberoi-rajvilas.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. If you have money to blow and you want to stay in the lap of luxury, this is the place for you. The only problem is that it is nearly impossible to get a booking. Room prices: From INR22,000 for a double room up to INR500,000-750,000 for a villa with private pool. Breakfast & taxes excluded.

• Taj Rambagh Palace Hotel. A former palace and an excellent place to stay. INR19,000-128,000. To include breakfast, INR2,000 additional. Rate includes Wi-Fi.

• The Trident Jaipur, Amber Fort Rd (opp Jal Mahal), +91 141 267 0101. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Surprisingly intimate low-rise hotel built like a glittering white Mughal palace, renovated and well maintained. Small pool. It's worth it to pay extra for a lake view room. Advance purchase rates starting at INR5,000; otherwise, starting at INR25,500; INR21,000 additional for breakfast.

Stay safe

As a general rule, do not accept tea from strangers, but in addition be wary of any who invite you to talk in secluded areas. The easiest is a simple and polite refusal of any offer, even if just a drink and chat. You may need to firm in your refusal, and walk away.

If you are a Westerner and a person outside your hotel accosts you, then it's likely the person is scheming to acquire your money. There have been reports of smugglers trying to entice foreigners to assist in smuggling items. Under no circumstances accept: smuggling is a serious offence.

Go next

If you are booking train tickets out of Jaipur, make sure to ask for Tatkal tickets at the reservation office, as tickets to just about everywhere sell out weeks in advance. Tatkal (last minute) tickets only open for sale the day before the train leaves, and are not always offered voluntarily by the staff, who will simply tell you the train is full.

• Abhaneri — you can arrange transport to this village, which contains an impressive ancient stepwell and a beautiful 9th-century temple.

• Bikaner — a city in the Thar Desert; though less visited than Jaisalmer, it is home to several important sites such as Bikaner Fort (Junagarh Fort), Laxmi Niwas Palace and Shivbari Temple.

• Bhandarej — a little-known town 62 km from Jaipur off the Jaipur-Agra Highway, which dates from the times of the Mahabharata and features 11th-century monuments and temples.

• Jaisalmer — the Golden City in the Thar Desert.

• Jodhpur — the stunning Blue City, with its awe-inspiring Mehrangarh Fort.

• Udaipur — train #2965, Gwalior Udaipur Superfast Express (via Agra), is the best option for this beautiful City of Lakes. (Wikivoyage)