Gangteng Monastery, Bhutan

Nyingma Tradition, 17th century.

Gangteng Monastery, generally known as Gangtey (meaning top of the mountain) Gonpa, is one of the main seats of the religious tradition based on Pema Lingpa's revelations and one of the two main centers of the Nyingma school of Buddhism in Bhutan.

Gangteng Monastery, Bhutan, Photo: Christopher J. Fynn, Wikipedia.

Location

The monastery is in the Wangdue Phodrang District in central Bhutan. Bounded on the west side by the Black Mountains range that reach above 5,000 meters, is located on a spur amidst the Gantey village, overlooking the vast glacial Phobjika Valley, which is at an elevation of about 3,000 meters.

The monastery commands striking views of the Phubjika Valley below. The Black Mountain Region is inhabited by nomadic shepherds and yak-herders.

History

The Gangteng Monastery was established in 1613 by the first Peling Gyalsé Rinpoche or Gangteng Tulku, Rigdzin Pema Tinley (1564–1642), who was the grandson of the great Bhutanese "treasure revealer" Terchen Pema Lingpa (1450–1521).

The earliest historical background relevant to this monastery is traced to establishment of the Vajrayana tradition of Buddhism, by Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche), who was instrumental in making Bhutan a Buddhist nation.

Padmasambhava, during his visits to the country in the 8th and 9th centuries, had hidden many sacred images and scriptures treasures (terma), to avoid their desecration or destruction during troubled times, at various places in Bhutan to be retrieved in later years by treasure finders, to propagate the teachings of Buddha.

These were retrieved at various periods over time and in the 15th century by Pema Lingpa, prompted by dream revelation of 108 treasure coves. He embarked on the treasure hunt in 1476 when he was 25 years of age.

He was successful in locating many treasures of images and scriptures related to Buddhism throughout Bhutan, which resulted in establishing many monasteries throughout Bhutan, and Buddhism took firm roots in the country.

Consequently, Pema Lingpa came to be known as the “King Terton", a revered saint and teacher.

The Terton, came on a visit to the Phobjikha Valley to teach Buddhist precepts to the people and to bless them. During this visit, after looking at the impressive mountains that surrounded the valley, he predicted that one of his descendants would build a monastery there and make it famous as the seat of the Peling tradition.

This prediction came true when a monastery was built by his grandson Gyalse Pema Thinley in 1613, and the spur of the mountain was given the name Gangteng Sang Nga Choling (meaning: “summit for the teaching of the dharma”). He became the first Trulku (spiritual head, or throne holder) of the monastery.

It was initially built as a Lhakhang, a small village monastery, which was later expanded by his son Tenzing Legpai Dhendup (1645–1726), who succeeded him as the second Trulku. It was built like a Dzong (fortress). The present Wangchuk Dynasty, which rules Bhutan, are descendants of Pema Lingpa.

From 2002–2008, the Monastery has been completely restored under the present Gangteng throne holder, H.E. Rigdzin Kunzang Pema Namgyal.¹

Gangteng Sang-ngak Chöling, as now restored, retains its original glory, and is stated to be the resurgence of the Peling Tradition.

In the context of the 1864–1865 battle fought between the British Army and the Bhutanese Army at Deothang in Bhutan, it is mentioned that the hands of the British military officer that was severed in the battle have been “preserved in the sanctum sanctorum of the Gangteng Gonpa.”

Features

The construction of the original Lakhang was done with full community effort. A renowned artisan of the Umze of Lhalung Monastery in Tibet was specially brought from Tibet to guide the team of local craftsmen.

Between 2000 and 2008 the monastery underwent a major refurbishing, organized by the ninth Gangteng Trulku, Kunzang Rigzin Pema Namgyal.

The rebuilt monastery was consecrated by the present incarnation of Pema Lingpa on the October 10, 2008, graced by the fourth King and Queen of Bhutan, the royal family and government members, and all descendants of Pema Lingpa.

The monastery complex has five temples that surround the main central tower. The main hall has been built in Tibetan architectural style. Some of the paintings and frescoes have also been redone. The monastery is now maintained by 100 lay monks.

The detailed layout and the holy images and frescos contained in the various buildings of the Gangteng Gonpa complex are elaborated, starting with the four directions of the gonpa and the sacred and symbolic significance of the surrounding areas.

Located in the central region of Bhutan, the precincts are forested with medicinal plants and trees. The sacred places that are in the region, in the four directions are: On the east – the Gayney Lhakhang in Bumthang; in the south – the Moenyul Namkha Dzong; in the west – the Paro Taktsang; and in the north – Namthang Lu Gi Phu, the meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche.

The gonpa is located on a spur at the highest point, symbolic of the Vajrayana teachings and its practice. It is surrounded by nine large mountain peaks, symbolizing the ninth yāna.²

On the monastery ground floor, images of the Buddhas of the past, present and future, like the ones in Magadha, Vajrasana and Yangpachen are deified. Next to these are the images of four other Buddhas, the eight Noble Sons, and the Great Teacher; wrathful form of Hayagriva, and Vajrapani flank them. The Assembly Hall has Jangchub Tungsha and offering goddesses.

At the sides of the entrance are representations of the Mandala of Cyclic Existence, a layout of Mt. Meru according to the sutras and tantras, Zangdog Pelri and the Pureland of Shambala.

The first floor is where the successive throne holders have lived, with three shrine rooms of the Dharmapalas. On the second floor is the statue of Vajrasattava surrounded by the Peling lineage holders.

The complete Nyingma Gyubum texts³ are located on the eastern side.

The Tshengye Lhakhang is on the southern side where the statues of the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche, canonical texts and eight red sandalwood Desheg Chortens are seen.

The west side has the Amitayus Lhakhang with the statue of Buddha Amitayus and his companions. The Machen Lhakhang is located to the north where the reliquary stupa with embalmed body of the 6th Gangteng Tulku Tenpai Nyima is located. It also houses statues of the 16 Arhats.

The eleven-faced Avalokiteśvara Lhakhang is at the entrance to the main temple. The Shedra's Assembly Hall and the Kezang Lhakhang flank the main temple. The living quarters of the monks are built on all four sides. The monastery also has a unique collection of armory and weapons along with ritual paraphernalia.

At the command of the fourth King, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, a Buddhist college and a meditation center have been established at Gangteng Monastery to propagate the Buddhist Dharma with support from the Royal Government of Bhutan, in 1985.

Festivals

Tsechu, the popular Bhutanese festival that is held all over Bhutan in all major monasteries and in district towns, is held here from the 5th to 10th days of the eighth lunar month, as per the Bhutanese calendar.

The Crane Festival which marks the arrival of Black-necked Cranes from the Tibetan plateau during the winter months and which are held as a religious blessing by the people. It is held on 12 November, every year, which is a day after the celebration of the King's birthday.

Gangteng Crane Festival. Photo: Madan Pore.

Travel

Gangteng Monastery is 130Km from Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, and 167Km from Paro International airport.

Sources

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gangteng_Monastery
• https://treasuryoflives.org/institution/Gangteng-Monastery-
• https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Gangteng_Monastery

Footnotes

1. Kunzang Rigdzin Pema Namgyal, born 1955, is the ninth Tulku of the Gonpa. He has royal lineage; his father belonged to the Bönbi Chöje: while his mother belonged to the Tibetan King Trisong Deutsen's lineage. He is western educated and stated to be the reincarnation of the mind of Pema Lingpa. His specialization and lineage are also in the spiritual orders of the Nyingma and Kargyu traditions.

In addition to Gangteng Monastery, he is in charge of 35 other monasteries, temples, hermitages and universities in Bhutan. A study and meditation center for women and girls, the first of its kind in Bhutan, is also to his credit. He has disciples throughout the Himalayan countries, India, Europe, North America, Asia and Africa.

2. Nine Yānas (Tib. tekpa gu) or nine successive vehicles within the Nyingma tradition, the full spectrum of spiritual paths is divided into nine yānas, a system of practice bringing together all the approaches of the Buddha’s teaching into a single comprehensive path to enlightenment.

The Nine Yānas are: shravaka, pratyekabuddha, bodhisattva, kriya tantra, charya tantra, yoga tantra, mahayoga, anuyoga, and atiyoga yāna. The first two are part of Theravada, the third is part of Mahāyāna and the last six are Vajrayāna (Tantrayāna).

3. literally “The Hundred Thousand Tantras of the Nyingma school” are the Mahayoga, Anuyoga and Atiyoga Tantras of the Nyingma lineage.