The World at Your Fingertips

Dubrovnik, Croatia

The Old Harbour at Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik is an old city on the Adriatic Sea coast in the extreme south of Croatia. It is one of the most prominent tourist resorts of the Mediterranean, a seaport and the centre of the Dubrovnik-Neretva County. Dubrovnik is nicknamed "Pearl of the Adriatic" and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Dubrovnik is steeped in stunning architecture and sculptural detail, and boasts spectacular churches, monasteries, museums, and fountains. A multitude of typical towns and excursions include: the Elaphiti Islands, the attractive town of Cavtat,the Konavle valley, Mljet Island, Korčula Island, Ston and Peljesac Peninsula. The neighbouring towns of Kotor and Perast in Montenegro or Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina also make for intriguing day trips.

Get in

By plane.

Dubrovnik airport (DBV) is about 20 km (12 mi) to the south of the city. The exact list of destinations and airlines, especially the low-cost ones, changes each year, but there is always a year-round service to/from Zagreb and seasonal scheduled and charter flights to/from many other airports in Europe.

Airport bus transfers.

Croatia Airlines operates buses between the airport and the main bus station in Kantafig (45 kn, 45 min), which is 2.5 km northwest of the Old Town. Taxis from the airport to the centre will cost 320 kn. Going to the airport a bus aims to leave the main bus station 2 hr before each international flight, and costs 35 kn.

Departure times are also displayed in the tourist information office at Pile Gate. The bus passes close to the Old Town en route to the airport and you can board this bus at the bus stop on Petra Kresimira 4 just above the Old Town, by the lower cable car station. Make sure you wave furiously otherwise the driver may not stop.

By train.

There is no train to Dubrovnik. The closest rail station is at Ploče, less than 2 hr by bus from Dubrovnik. From there, you can connect to trains to Mostar and Sarajevo. Trains to points north can be boarded at Split, a 4 hr bus ride from Dubrovnik.

By car.

The trip from Split along the coastal road (Jadranska magistrala or D8) is a beautiful scenic journey through small, quaint villages and other tourist destinations. Just know that in the summer months the trip is likely to take several hours longer than anticipated. What looks like a short trip on a map can take 6 hr.

A much faster way of simply getting from Split to Dubrovnik by car is to take the A1 highway to Ploče and then continue via Opuzen and Neum to Dubrovnik.

By bus.

The main bus station is in Kantafig, near Port Gruz and the Tudjman bridge, 2.5 km northwest of the Old Town. Local bus 7 operates between this station and Babin kuk, and bus 1 serves Old Town.

Direct buses run to/from Zagreb (205-234 kn, 11 hr, 7 daily), Korčula (100 kn, 3 hr, 1 daily), Mostar (100 kn, 3 hr, 2 daily), Orebic (100 kn, 2.5 hr, 1 daily), Rijeka (400 kn, 12 hr, 3 daily), Sarajevo (160 kn, 5 hr, 1 daily), Split (100-150 kn, 4.5 hr, 14 daily), Zadar (200 kn, 8 hr, 7 daily). In the high season, there is also a daily bus leaving at 11:00 going to the Montenegro cities of Herceg Novi, Bar, Kotor, and Budva. And at 15:00 to Prijedor and Banja Luka (10 hr) in Bosnia. A one-way trip to Budva costs 128 kn or €10. The return tickets are much cheaper and advisable, just look out for the choice of the bus company.

When coming by bus from Split or cities further north, police officers may board the bus and you may be asked for a valid identity document when crossing the Neum corridor which belongs to Bosnia and Herzegovina. While the bus companies list trip duration of approx. 4 hr, be prepared for a ride of closer to 5.5-6 hr, including Bosnian border checks.

When travelling into Montenegro and the airport sit on the right hand side (not behind driver) for best views, and vice-versa for the return. Travelling to Bosnia, sit on the left hand side (behind the driver) for best views.

A departure listing for the international bus station is available at the website of the city bus operator. Further details can be found online. On all intercity buses you pay a separate fee of €2 or 10 kn to the driver for luggage. So keep some change ready.

By boat

Cruise ships.

Many cruise ships come to this port of call, typically docking at the Port of Dubrovnik (Port Gruz) across from the main bus station, 2.5 km northwest of the walled old town. The easiest and cheapest way to get from the main bus station to the Old Town is by using the local buses number 1, 1A and 1B, which circulate almost constantly. Some cruise ships anchor offshore just east of the Old Town and tender the passengers directly into the Old Port.

Ferries.

Jadrolinija

From Rijeka Ferries run up and down the coast. Calling at Split, Stari Grad, Korčula and Sobra on the way. Journey time is up to 20 hr, so consider getting a cabin. The restaurant serves up some decent food at surprisingly reasonable prices, but the 23% tax is not included on the menu. While the journey is scenic there is nothing in the way of entertainment. Come prepared with a good book or just sit on the deck and watch the Adriatic Sea go by. This is more than enough entertainment for an afternoon.

From Bari in Italy. The dull engine vibration or the swaying of the boat from high winds are likely to keep you awake. Cabins are strongly recommended. Although you can sit comfortably enough inside with the cheaper deck pass, interior temperature is 16⁰C or below and makes for a chilly night even in the height of summer.

Get around

The Old Town can be comparatively difficult to navigate on first appearances, as it really is a warren of little streets. There are however signs at the entrances to many of these streets advertising what businesses, shops, restaurants and accommodation are to be found in that direction.

Some of these signs appear to be either intentionally misleading or woefully out of date. For example, there is no office of any bus company within the Old Town, despite what the signs may say. The city is completely pedestrianised and easily small enough to get around on foot, some of the streets are a little steep though.

By sea taxi

The sea taxis (like a motorboat) operate from the bay area, and go to the castle, they accommodate about 3-4 people and are a generally good option. Not expensive, but not cheap either. Still, it's a worthwhile choice for families.

By bus

If you are not staying in Old Town, it's relatively simple get there by bus, as just about every one leads to the Old Town. However, it might be advisable to get a timetable just in case. It costs 12 kn for tickets bought at any kiosk, or 15 kn bought on the bus; ticket valid for 1 hr. At selected kiosks (including the international bus station) you can purchase a day pass for 30 kn. This pass is valid for 24 hr of unlimited travel on the city bus network, starting from the first validation. The easiest way to get from the Main Bus Station to the Old Town is by using the (mostly modern and air-con equipped) buses number 1, 1A and 1B, which circulate almost constantly. These buses can be boarded from the bus stop just outside the Main Bus Station. Apart from this, there is another bus service which comes inside the bus station and drops you directly at the Old Town. Schedules are available at the information counter of the Main Bus Station.

Car rental

• A Marker Car Rental (Airport Shuttle Service Dubrovnik), Svetog Djurdja 6-Pile Gate-Old Town, +385 91 739 75 45, fax: +385 20 418 730, e-mail: info@carhiredubrovnik.com. Airport transfers, car, motorbike and scooter rental. From €32 per day.

• Kompas Rent a Car, Kardinala Stepinca 52, +385 20 436 541, fax: +385 20 436 571, e-mail: reservations@kompasrent.hr.

• EasyRent, Uz glavicu 7, +385 98 1952 114, fax: +385 20 773 953, e-mail: info@dubrovnik-airport-carhire.com. Cars from €22 per day.

See

Old Town

• Roland's Column (in front of the Bell Tower). A slender stone flag staff of the legendary knight. Also known as Orlando's Column. Ever since its foundation in 1950, the Dubrovnik Summer Festival is opened by raising a flag carrying the city's motto Libertus on Orlando's staff.

• Bell Tower (after the Ploče entrance to the city). On top of the tower are the famous 'Zelenci' (The Green Ones), bronze statues which strike the gigantic bell every hour. They have been replaced with copies and the originals are in the atrium of the Sponza Palace.

• Sponza Palace (West of the Bell Tower). Daily 10:00-22:00. Gothic Renaissance palace, one of the few buildings that has maintained its form from before the catastrophic 1667 earthquake. Hosts historic archives. Memorial room of defenders. 20 kn.

• Rector's Palace, Pred dvorom 1, +385 20 321 437. The former palace of the Major Council houses a museum dedicated to the city's history.

• War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6. Daily 09:00-21:00. An exhibition centre of war and conflict photography. Exhibits change during the season. Stunning images by world renowned photo journalists.

• Pile Gate (Vrata od Pila), at the western end of the Placa Thoroughfare (Stradun) (Old town). A convenient starting place for your stroll through the Old Town is the Pile Gate. Before entering the Old Town, Fort Lovrjenac, the first among many sites worth seeing in Dubrovnik, provides a good view of the Old Town and its wall.

• Placa Stradun (Old town). The Stradun (Placa) is the central street of the city of Dubrovnik and is the place where the old city comes to life. During the day, explore the shades of the perpendicular streets and alleys on its sides, and during the night, take walks up and down the Stradun with an ice-cream in hand. The uniform Baroque architecture of the houses in Placa, with shops on the street level and their 'knee-like' entrances, got its present-day form in the restoration of the City taking place after the disastrous earthquake in 1667, when a large number of luxurious Gothic and Renaissance palaces had been destroyed. The architectural design of Placa reveals effective solutions and the business sense of the Dubrovnik Republic in those difficult times. Today, Placa is still the shopping centre and venue of major events.

• Big Onofrio's Fountain. In the western (Pile) entrance of the old town, The fountain stairs are nowadays a favourite meeting place for local youth and where both the tourists and pigeons take rest and refresh themselves with cool water.

• Old Port. The eastern part of the Old Town of Dubrovnik; some cruise ship passengers are tendered to the Old Port.

• Fort Lovrijenac. Daily 09:00-17:30. The monumental fort rises above 37 m high rock. It changed roles in the course of history. The main purpose of its construction was defence, and the main idea was to protect the freedom of Dubrovnik. Not much remains in the way of historical artefacts but the fort gives spectacular views back upon the walled city. 30 kn, or free by showing your City Walls ticket.

• Aquarium. Daily 08:00-21:00. 30 kn.

• Visia Dubrovnik 5D Theatrum, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (in the Convent of St. Clare, on the right side at the beginning of Stradun through Pile gate), +385 20 324-714, fax: +385 20 324-714, e-mail: info@visiadubrovnik.com. Daily 09:00-20:00. Virtual reality technology guides visitors to Dubrovnik through the history and cultural features of the city and wider Croatia.

City walls

Walk on the walls around the old town, great views. It is highly recommended to visit the walls during the early morning hours or the late afternoon hours during mid-summer months as it can become hot.

Dubrovnik is surrounded by City Walls which are 2 km long and for which it is famous all around the world. There are 3 entrances to the City Walls: on Stradun by the Pile gate, by fort Saint John’s and at the Custom’s House gate.

Within the City Walls you will see Fort Minceta and Fort St. John’s on the south-eastern side. Also, within the City Walls are Fort Lawrence at Pile and Fort Revelin at Ploce. The main entrance to the City Walls is by the Inner Pile Gates.

Minceta Fort is one of the most beautiful cultural attractions in Dubrovnik. It is situated on the northwest side of the city inside the City Walls. It was built according to the design of Renaissance builder Juraj Dalmatinac. St. Luke’s Tower you can see walking along the landward side of City Walls up to Ploce Gate. St. Luke’s Tower has protected the entrance to the Dubrovnik harbour throughout the history of the city.

St John’s Fort was constructed in 16th century and it is really worth of visiting- on its ground floor you can visit the Aquarium, and on first and second floor you can visit Maritime Museum.

Bokar Fort is situated on the seaward of City Walls. It was designed by Florentine architect Michelozzi in the 15th century.

Hours: 08:00-19:00 summer, 10:00-15:00 winter, daily. Entrance fee to the walls: 150 kn for adults, 50 kn for children and 50 kn for students with a valid student card.

Churches

• Franciscan Monastery, Placa 2, +385 20 321 410. 09:00-18:00.. This beautiful monastery with Baroque Church, houses a Romanesque cloister and the third oldest pharmacy in the world.

• Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, Kneza Damjana Jude 1, +385 20 323 459. M-Sa 08:00-20:00, Su 11:00-17:30. This impressive building is in the Poljana Marin Držić. Supposedly, the original church was built with money donated by Richard the Lionhearted who survived shipwreck on his way home from the Third Crusade. The current Roman Baroque cathedral dates from the 18th century.

• Church of Saint Blaise (Crkva Svetog Vlaha). Baroque Church dedicated to the city's patron saint.

• Church of St. Ignatius and the Jesuit College (On an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town). Mass held in English daily at 11:00 in the summer. Ornate Jesuit church, approached via a romantic baroque staircase modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). Built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits.

• Dominican Monastery. Daily 09:00-18:00. This is an exceptionally valuable historic complex, which, besides its religious purpose, also represents the important artistic treasury of ancient Dubrovnik.

• Church of St. Sebastian (by the Ploče gate). 15th-century church built by the Ploče gate since St. Sebastian is the saint protector against plague.

• Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons (Pravoslavna crkva i Muzej ikona). Built from 1865-1877, stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. Houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan. Museum next to church has extensive icon collection. Church admission: free; Museum admission 5-10 kn.

Museums

Some museums offer a discount ticket if you visit more than one museum. For example its 40 kn for the Rectors Palace, 45 kn for Rectors Palace and Ethnographic museum, and 50 kn for Rectors Palace, Ethnographic museum and Maritime museum. You can use these tickets on multiple days.

• Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac), Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, +385 20 478 646. Tu-Sa 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00-20:00; Su 16:00-20:00. Includes works by Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922), one of the most famous modern Croatian painters. Part of the house is devoted to exhibitions of works by young artists.

• Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej), Androvićeva 1, +385 20 324 888. M-F 09:00-16:00. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens dates back to 1872 and may not appeal to everyone.

• Franciscan Monastery Museum, Placa 2. Daily 09:00-18:00. Houses artifacts from one of the world's oldest pharmacies. 30 kn.

• Sigurata Convent Museum, Od Sigurate 13, +385 20 321 467. Upon request. 10 kn.

• Synagogue and Jewish Museum, Zudioska 5, +385 20 321 028. Daily 10:00-15:00. This synagogue built by Sephardic Jews is supposed to be the second-oldest still in use synagogue in Europe today. The synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.

• Dominican Monastery Museum, Sv. Domina 4, +385 20 321 423. Daily 09:00-18:00. Paintings and artifacts from Dubrovnik's past. 20 kn.

• The Sponza Palace Museum (Museum of the State Archives). 20 kn.

• The Rector`s Palace Museum, Pred dvorom 1, +385 20 321 437. Daily 09:00-18:00. Artifacts, paintings and furniture dating from the time of the Dubrovnik Republic. 40 kn.

• The Treasury of Cathedral, Kneza Damjana Jude 1, +385 20 323 459. Daily 09:00-18:00. The Treasury has 138 reliquaries which are carried around the city during the Feast of St Blaise. 15 kn.

• Maritime Museum, In St. John Fortress, +385 20 323 904. Daily 09:00-18:00. Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. 40 kn.

• Home of Marin Držić, Široka 7, +385 20 420 490. M-Sa 09:00-13:00 and by appointment. Memorial house of Marin Držić, a famous 16th-century Croatian playwright from Dubrovnik.

• The Etnographic Museum (Rupe Granary), Od Rupa 3, +385 20 323 013. Daily 09:00-18:00. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated. 40 kn.

Beaches

• Lapad Beach. A car-free, sandy beach area on the Lapad Peninsula, approximately 3.5 km from the old town, where you can relax in the shade of the numerous trees. At the end of a long pedestrianised street full of café bars and restaurants you will see many popular pebble beaches known as Lapad beaches. Walking further along is an excellent local fish restaurant - ideal for ending the day. The walk back is not particularly well lit, but perfectly safe.

• Banje Beach (near the Old Town). A well-located pebble beach. There's a concessioned part with an entrance fee, but also a public part which is always livelier and more relaxed. Great way to beat the heat in the middle of the town. Amazing view to city walls, Old Town Dubrovnik and the island of Lokrum. Beach volleyball, mini football or water polo. You can also enjoy lying on deck chair and having a drink.

Other

• Stradun. Take a walk and enjoy a drink at a cafe on the main thoroughfare of the old town.

• Mount Srđ, For a great view of the town. There is a fortress on top which contains a small museum describing its history. There are several ways up:

- Walk up the winding footpath to the fortress and large cross on the hilltop 400 m above Dubrovnik. Walking up from the old town takes about 90 min. The path is quite rocky so use suitable footwear.

- Take the new renovated cable car and you will get from Down station to Mountain Srđ in less than 4 min. Round trip ticket 120 kn.

- Go by car via Bosanka village. Follow Jadranska cesta (D8) towards Mlini and drive past Dubrovnik. Turn left to Bosanka village and follow the road up the hill. There is also the bus number 17 from Pile to Bosanka.

• Visit the Fortress Lovrijenac. It was an essential fortification for defense of the city from both ground and sea attacks. In order to prevent mutiny by the commander of the fortress, the walls facing the city are only 60 cm thick compared to those exposed to enemy fire which were 12 m thick. Above the entrance to the fortress is an inscription that says "Non bene pro toto libertas venditur auro" which translates to "Freedom is not sold for all the gold in the world".

Do

Sailing and boat trips

Dubrovnik is an excellent starting point for exploring southern Adriatic coast primarily Elaphite islands, Korčula, Pelješac and Mljet. There are many charter agencies where you can charter a sailing or motor yacht which are based in Dubrovnik. Majority of them operate from ACI marina Dubrovnik (42°40,3’ N 18°07,6’ E) which is based in Komolac about 2 nautical miles away from the entrance to the port Gruz, and 6 km away from the old town. It is open throughout the whole year.

• AYachtCharterDubrovnik.com operates from Komolac and offers a unique selection of yachts and other type of sailboats great for a family vacation.

Dubrovnik is characterized by Mediterranean climate and generally light NW winds, making a yacht charter holiday very popular with couples with younger children and less experienced skippers and crews. A strong north wind known as the Bora is more usual during autumn and winter.

When you charter a yacht through charter agency and arrive to designated marina there are a few things that need to be done. The most important thing is the yacht check-in (usually Saturday around 16:00).

Don't neglect the grocery shopping because the sea is unpredictable and you don't want to get stuck on the boat without anything to eat or drink. You can do the shopping in a marina however the prices are usually much higher there, or you can order from yacht provisioning services who usually deliver the products to the marina at no extra fee.

- Marina in Dubrovnik. The only marina in Dubrovnik (formally in Komolac city) designed for sailing yachts and touristic catamarans, which start cruises in Dubrovnik. It is about 5 km from the city centre of Dubrovnik, in Rijeka Dubrovacka.

- In Jam Yacht Supply. Online provisioning catalog where you can order from a large selection of groceries and other products months in advance and everything you order awaits for you in the marina. This is convenient because it takes the load of you and the things you must do when you arrive at the marina for your sailing holiday.

• Lokrum, Take a ferry to the Island of Lokrum which houses a monastery, a fort with great views of Dubrovnik, botanical gardens and a naturist beach. Preserved as a nature park this small island is reachable in 10 min in boat-time from the old city port. It offers unparalleled serenity, beauty and peace.

Festivals

• Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Music and theatre festival held since 1949 from 10 July to 25 August. Famous nationwide for its exquisite selection of drama, plays and concert of chamber music with more than 2,000 artists from 30 countries during 47 days of festival. Be sure to book in advance and don't miss a chance to see some of the open-air performances.

• Libertas Film Festival. Film festival held from August 25–30.

Cable car

• Dubrovnik Cable Car, Petra Krešimira 4. bb, 20000 Dubrovnik (The easiest way to come to the cable car is from the Old Town of Dubrovnik. On the northern side of the town there is Buža Street which leads you towards the exit from the city walls. From there you need to keep climbing towards the fireman station. Once you are at the fireman station, you need to cross the street on your right hand side and keep going straight. After few moments you will see cable car station on your right hand side.). Daily 09:00-24:00. There is a small shop at the top and Restaurant Panorama with new outside terraces, restaurant with best view. Directions to the Cable Car are difficult to find in the Old City. 120 kn round trip.

Buy

Croatia's official currency is the kuna, denoted by the symbol "kn". Although many tourist business owners may accept euros, they are not legal tender in Croatia. Any amount of kuna you have left at the end of your stay can be converted to euros at a local bank or exchange office.

Prices are around 10% to 20% lower than most other EU countries. Tourist destinations and articles are much more expensive.

There are many local artisans who specialize in domestic crafts. Popular purchases include: handmade tablecloths, linens and napkins. Many merchants claim that the necktie was invented in Croatia. Another local specialty is little dolls dressed in local garb.

The Pharmacy, at the Franciscan Monastery creates hand creams and other toiletries based on ancient recipes. The pharmacy is one of the oldest in this part of Europe. It has been operating from the time of its foundation to the present day.

While wandering around the Old Town, you will come across many shops that sell Croatian goods such as wine and textiles.

If you have transport there is a Lidl (German discount supermarket) 5 km east of the Old Town near the village of Čibača - this is where the locals shop to avoid steep Dubrovnik prices.

• Magnolika, Marina Getaldiceva 7 (3rd St. to the right in the Old Town), +385 98 195 4040. Small gallery with unconventional art and cool jewellery design.

• Clara Stones Jewellery Store, Naljeskoviceva 8 (5th street to the left of Stradun if you go from Pile Gate), +385 20 321706. Unique handmade adriatic coral, pearl and gems jewellery with certifcate of authenticity.

Bicycle parts and service

Some car parts shops in the Dubrovnik area sell bicycles; they are easy to notice, as new bikes are standing outside in front of the shop. These shops may also carry some bicycle accessories and spare parts, but they don't do any bicycle repair. There was one person, Tonći Kera, who works as a bicycle mechanic in his spare time.

• Tonći Kera, meštar za bicikle, P. Zoranića 1 (ask at the garage), +385 20 436-776. This is not a regular bicycle repair shop, however the operator of this local garage offers a service.

Eat

There is a wide range of restaurants in the Old Town, mostly offering a very similar menu of local seafood and some meat dishes. The cuisine may not be very imaginative, but it is usually of good quality and very fresh.

Restaurants can be crudely separated into (slightly) cheaper tourist-trap places, and more expensive but first class gastronomic restaurants. There are a few pizzerias, mostly wood-fired and quite acceptable. The Kraš chocolate sold at stores is delicious. Dubrovnik, more so than the rest of Croatia, is well aware of its status as a tourist hot-spot. Rents for restaurant premises are high and consequently the prices on the menus reflect this.

In the off peak season of November–March nearly all the top-end restaurants close, leaving only a handful of desperate tourist trap enterprises operating and still charging high prices. You can however still eat well and discounts can be negotiated.

Dubrovnik cuisine is characteristically not very spicy and is famous for traditionalism. Many popular meals are characteristic of Dubrovnik such as zelena menestra (it is the name for many sorts of cabbages and other vegetables with meat), the meat dish pašticada and the famous caramel-based dessert dubrovačka rozata.

Since Dubrovnik restaurants are quite popular, many mid-range and high-end establishments provide the option of online reservation. English-language menus are found everywhere.

Budget

Foodstuffs to prepare your own meals can be bought at Zoro, Ulica od Puča 7 (in the heart of Old Town). Daily 07:00-23:00. edit.

• La Luna, Andrije Hebranga 60, +385 20 419 736. Daily 09:00-24:00. Large portions. Really good pizza with fresh ingredients. Best to have a medium pizza for 1 person or large if you are really hungry - a large can be split in half for not that hungry couples. Only pizza is served before 17:00, for pasta or other dishes you will have to wait until 17:00. 45 kn/medium pizza.

• Lokanda Peskarija, Na ponti bb, +385 20 324 750. Traditional Dalmatian appetizers and meals, you get your meal in a large black fisherman's style pot.

• Mea Culpa, Široka Street. One of the best pizzerias on what is becoming a 'pizza street'. Go for pizza or a coffee and brandy and exchange banter with the staff. 70 kn/pizza+bottle of water.

• Nishta, Prijeko 30 (At the top of the first set of stairs on Palmotićeva, which is the 3rd street on the left when walking from Pile gate), +385 92 218 8612. Dubrovnik's only vegetarian restaurant, with vegan and gluten-free options available upon request.

• Pekara Zlatno Zrno patisserie, Petra Kresimira (outside the city walls near the fire station), +385 20 412153. Nice patisserie and bakery that stays open late. Expensive, but cheaper than those within the city walls.

Mid-range

• Arka, Gundulićeva poljana (in the Old Town). Dalmatian cuisine in an excellent location. Has some good vegetarian options. The baked moussaka especially is worth a try.

• Domino Steak House, Od Domina 6, +385 20 323 103. One of the best for a variety of ways of serving steak. Also serves traditional Dalmatian fare.

• Dubravka 1836 (welcome@dubravka1836.hr), Brsalje 1 (Pile Gate, Brsalje Sq at entrance to the Old Town.), ☎ +385 20 426 319. Variety of pizzas, meat and seafood dishes, quality domestic and foreign wines, cocktails, homemade ice cream and desserts. Pizza 60 kn, mains 70-160 kn, dessert 30 kn..

Splurge

• Gils Cuisine & Pop Lounge, Sv. Dominika bb (Near the Ploce gate), +385 20 32 2222, fax: +358 20 32 2220, e-mail: info@gilsdubrovnik.com. A rather over the top venue located in the Old town of Dubrovnik with stunning views of the old harbour. The restaurant offers ultra modern French cuisine and a wine and digestive cellar. A lounge bar has fresh cocktails and funky DJ music. 500 kn/person.

• Nautika, Brsalje 3 (just outside the Pile gate to the Old City, on the waterfront), +385 20 44 25 26. Great views of the sea and Old City. Pay attention to the menu prices which switch from kuna to euro throughout. Try the €17 "Mediterranean Lunch" special; otherwise start at 200 kn.

• Porat Restaurant & Terrace (Restaurant in Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik hotel), Marijana Blazica 2, +385 20 320-320. Spacious terrace, just outside the Pile gate. Offers international and Croatian cuisine.

Drink

The most popular hard alcohol in Croatia is home made rakija. This is a very strong distilled drink made from a variety of fruits. Examples include šljivovica, made from plums, loza, made from grapes, and orahovica, made with walnuts. All are quite strong.

There are many excellent local wines from both the Pelješac Peninsula and Konavle and it is often less expensive than soft drinks like Coca Cola. However, be careful when purchasing wine from unlicensed dealers. Though the price is very attractive with some being as low as 10 kn or €1.5 per litre it can sometimes be of low quality. Croatian beer is also good and popular, though none is made in the Dubrovnik region.

Cafes

There are numerous cafes throughout the Old Town and the entire city with prices varying according to the location (particularly, those located on the Stradun are by far the most expensive but you are paying for the ambiance and people-watching as well). Most cafes serve a wide variety of drinks all day.

Bars

Walk towards the sea from Stradun near the Ploce gate, and you'll hit a tiny square with outdoor seating by 4 or 5 different pubs, with live music playing, and large cocktail pitchers with very low alcohol content.

• Cafe Buža, Iza Mura (Follow a sign that says ‘cold drinks’ and enter through a hole in the wall on the south side of the Old Town. Just wander up the stairs (on the right side of Stradun coming from Pile gate), until you hit the city walls, and then walk all the way down.). This is lovely in the evening, when the sun is setting and you gaze over at island of Lokrum. Eclectic chilled out music plays unobtrusively in the background. There isn’t much in the way of shelter apart from some palm leaves so Buža won’t open in bad weather. Higher price range.

• Casablanca (On one of the streets to the left of Stradun walking from the Pile gate). Look for flashing red and blue lights. This is an interesting, slightly bizarre bar with seating outside on the city stairs, techno music, and may have erotic dancing.

• D'vino Wine Bar, Palmoticeva 4a (Coming from Pile Gate they are on the third street off of Stradun on the left.), +385 20 321 223. D'Vino Wine Bar has a selection of over 100 fine domestic and imported wine available by the glass, bottle, and in tasting servings. Largest selection of wines by the glass in Dubrovnik with a very intimate, romantic atmosphere, which is a change of pace from other bars in the city.

Clubs

• Capitano, Pile. Various kinds of music from studio 54 to Croatian music. Low prices.

• EastWest, Frana Supila bb (At the Banje beach at the Ploce gate), +385 20 412 220, e-mail: info@ew-dubrovnik.com. Beach club and night club. In the day you can have drinks in the lounge chairs, at night you can party in the nightclub. Amazing view, various kinds of music, popular Djs and beautiful atmosphere. Free entrance until midnight.

• Factory, Put Republike (Gruz, 1 km from the centre. Bus station is situated just 20 m from the club.). Various kinds of music, many popular singers and DJs.

Sleep

Private rooms are a good option for those on a budget, starting from around €10 per person for comfort and privacy exceeding those of hostels. The downside is that they may be far from the Old Town, so make sure you check the location. Owners letting out these rooms accost buses at the bus station, so you can ask around and even bargain a little.

Budget

• Camping Solitudo (Catch bus #7 from the main bus station (every hour) directly or take bus #1 to the Old Town Pile station and change to bus 6 (6 and 7, direction: 'Babin Kuk')). A large site with one large amenity block in the middle, so if you are on the edge there is a reasonable walk to the toilets. 400 m walk to two beaches. Most of the pitches are dirt or gravel so not great on lightweight groundsheets. Bar and food on site. 2 people in a tent: €47.

• Hostel Marker Dubrovnik-Old Town (in Old Town-Pile Beach, 25 m from sea), +385 91 739 75 45, e-mail: apartmentslovrijenac@yahoo.com. Marko the owner is a friendly and obliging guy with a local philosophic attitude. He also offers holiday-apartments with their own kitchen and private bathroom. €15-40 per person.

• Hostel Villa Micika Dubrovnik, Mata Vodopica 12 (in Lapad, 200 m walk to the beach. Take Bus #6 from Pile or the bus station to Lapad post office), +385 20 437 332, e-mail: info@vilamicika.hr. Funky, clean, character rooms, dorms, big shared terrace. Free Internet with WiFi. All rooms have TV with local and international channels, air-con and bathrooms with shower cabin and WC. €15 low season-€38 high season.

Mid-range

• Hotel Adriatic Dubrovnik, Masarykov put 9 (at the foot of Petka Hill, by the Adriatic Sea), +385 20 433 609, e-mail: sales_adriatic@hotelimaestral.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Park and sea view rooms. The city centre is reachable by bus.

• Hotel Komodor, Masarykov put 5, Lapad Bay, +385 20 433 673, e-mail: sales_komodor@hotelimaestral.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Swimming pool, complimentary breakfast, free parking for hotel guests and free Wifi in public spaces.

• Hotel Neptun Dubrovnik, Kardinala Stepinca 31, +385 20 440 100, fax: +385 20 440 200, e-mail: sales@importanneresort.com. Renovated in 2008. 9-story tower with 79 rooms and 12 family suites, all have air-con, a balcony with sea-view and free WiFi.

Splurge

• Ariston Hotel, Kardinala Stepinca 31, +385 20 440 100, fax: +385 20 440 200, e-mail: sales@importanneresort.com. 115 luxury sea and garden view rooms a few miles from the Old Town of Dubrovnik along the Adriatic Sea.

• Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, Marijana Blažića 2, +385 20 320 320. 5-star hotel near the entrance of the Old Town and overlooking the ancient city walls and fortresses. It was built in 1895 and has 139 rooms and 8 suites.

• Hotel Bellevue, Pera Čingrije 7 (1 km from Old Town.), +385 20 330-300, fax: +385 20 330-100. 5-star hotel on a clifftop overlooking the Adriatic, 93 rooms on 5 levels. Rooms have a modern nautical themed decor with wooden flooring. Private beach, spa and sauna.

• Hotel Dubrovnik Palace, Masarykov put 20 (4.5 km from Old Town), +385 20 430 777. 5-star hotel on a Lapad peninsula, below the park of little Petka woods and with a view to the Elaphite islands.

• Hotel Excelsior, F. Supila 12, +385 20 35 33 53. 5-star hotel of 146 bedrooms and 18 suites. Built in 1913 and completely renovated in 1998 overlooking the Old City. Walking distance to the beaches and Old City 2,000 kn.

• Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens, Na moru 1, +385 20 361 500, fax: +385 2036 1503, e-mail: reservations.dubrovnik@radissonblu.com. 5-star beachside resort, 15 km from the centre of Dubrovnik.

Stay safe

Dubrovnik is a very safe city, though the usual precautions should be taken to protect yourself from pick-pocketing.

The streets in the old town can be quite slippery as they've been smoothed down for centuries by people walking over them. At night, avoid the smaller old town streets and stick to the more modern ones with street-lighting (Victorian gaslamps on brackets).

When entering a port, it is international protocol to hoist a flag, meaning "Ready for inspection by Customs".

In Croatia you must always have your headlights on while operating a motor vehicle including all cars, motorbikes and scooters during winter daylight savings time. Headlights are no longer required during the day in the summer months, although many motorists still leave them turned on.

Connect

• Dubrovnik Travel Corner, Obala Stjepana Radica 40, +385 20 492 313, fax: +385 20 492 314, e-mail: info@dubrovnik-travelcorner.com. Summer: 08:00-22:00, winter: 09:00-15:00. You can book tours, go online, leave your luggage or make international calls.

Go next

• Many destinations in Croatia can be accessed from Dubrovnik with popular attractions including Split, the Plitvice Lakes National Park, and the capital, Zagreb, which is approximately a 10-hr drive away (6 hr if you travel outside the tourist season and take the new highway). Check out the timetables at libertas Dubrovnik.

• A popular shopping destination for locals, Neum in Herzegovina (Bosnia and Herzegovina) offers many cheap goods for frugal travellers. Buses heading between Split and Dubrovnik will often stop for a short while here to collect various supplies.

• Montenegro Daily buses operates from Dubrovnik through to Kotor, Budva or Herceg Novi.

• Ston is known for oysters and old salt ponds still in use and the longest stone wall in Europe (5 km long).

• Trsteno 15th-century summer residence with renaissance garden.

• Mostar in Bosnia is about 3 hr away by bus, and makes for a good two day trip. The city has a much stronger Turkish feel as opposed to Dubrovnik's Italian.

• Sarajevo is worth visiting as it is considered by some as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.

• A boat trip to the Elaphiti Islands (Koločep, Šipan, Lopud) is well worth while, with plenty of places to swim, fish or relax.

• Međugorje Visit the Shrine of Međugorje for a religious experience.

• Mljet island. Green island with lakes and monasteries.

• Go on a wine tasting tour to Pelješac peninsula. (Wikivoyage)

Beaches of Uvala Lapad in Dubrovnik.

Old harbour, old city of Dubrovnik, Croatia.