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Cuzco, Peru

Cuzco, Peru.

Cuzco or Cusco, in the Southern Sierras, is a fascinating city that was the capital of the Inca Empire. Cuzco is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is one of Peru's most visited cities as it is the largest and most comfortable city from which tourists can begin visits to Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley of the Incas, and other Inca sites in the region.

The city is the center of indigenous Quechua culture in the Andes, and walking the streets you see the layers of history. Spanish colonial buildings erected directly atop Inca walls line the square. The city is surrounded by a number of ruins, the most impressive being Sacsayhuaman, the site of the 1536 battle in which dozens of Pizarro's men charged uphill to battle the forces of the Inca.

Nowadays, Cuzco is known for its indigenous population—often seen on the streets in traditional clothing—and its substantial tourist-fueled night life.

In and around Cuzco, lots of places and landmarks have multiple spellings: often a Spanish spelling and a Quechua spelling, and sometimes two or three of each! The name of the city, for instance, can be "Cuzco", "Cusco", or even "Qosqo", depending on where you look. Get used to confusion and extra searching when trying to find the name of a place, especially if looking online.

Climate

Has two defined seasons. The dry season: from April to October, with abundant sunshine. The wet season lasts from November to March (in February the Inca Trail is closed).

Tourist office

More information on Cuzco is available from the official Tourist Office: Directur, Portal Blankets 117 (near the Plaza de Armas), +51 84 223701.

Get in

By plane. The airport is at the edge of the city (taxi ride). There are daily internal flights to and from Lima, Arequipa and small jungle airstrips in the Amazon basin. Lan Peru has the most flights between Cuzco and Lima, followed by LC Perú and Avianca. It is best to book the earlier flights to avoid weather delays and overbooking.

The closest major international airport is Lima. The cheapest one-way flights to Lima cost around US$70. LC Perú generally has the cheapest flights. Frequently, bad weather conditions can cause flights to be canceled, often up to two days on end. If you are flying straight into Cuzco, beware of altitude sickness for the first couple of days.

With only 5 gates and a few off the main terminal, this airport is fairly small but because it sees thousands of tourists a day, it has a lot of facilities. There are a few restaurants before and after security and some shops too. Massage facilities and communication services are also available. There are a few ATMs in the check-in area. If you have time, look across the parking lot for last-minute shopping. Moderately slow and somewhat unreliable WiFi is available (US$5 for two hours as of December 2017).

The market rate for a taxi from the airport to the Plaza de Armas is around S/15 (soles), not S/30 or more as the 'official' airport taxis may try to charge you. As a tourist, it's best to use the unofficial cabs outside and expect to pay around S/10-15 without much trouble. To find these taxis, exit the airport through the main gate and go to the street that is in front of the airport. Head right on the right-hand-side of the street for around 50 m until you hit the taxi stand.

The airport opens at 03:00 in the morning, so if you have to leave early in the morning, do not arrive before 03:00, if so, you will have to wait outside the airport (and it is pretty dark).

By bus.

— The Terminal Terrestre is about a 20-minute walk from the centro down Av. Sol. You can also take a taxi for a few soles. The toilet in the terminal is S/1 at the first level, in the second level is free.

Buses are plentiful to and from other Peruvian and Bolivian cities like Lima (about 22 hr), Puno (6-8 hr), Arequipa (10 hr), Nasca (14-16 hr), Copacabana (9-12 hr, S/60) and La Paz (12-15 hr, S/90) but are quite long and slow, although the views can compensate. The main roads are mostly quite good, but some can be bad, making trips take longer than expected.

Buses in Peru are not operated to first world standards, especially the cheaper ones. The drivers work long hours and poor maintenance is common. There are frequent accidents, often with fatalities. If you are of nervous disposition, stick with the more upmarket companies.

Peru Hop offers high-end buses to Puno, La Oaz geared, Arequipa, Lima, and places in between. It geated towards tourists, with stops where you can choose to hop off for sightseeing along the way to Cuzco and back.

Also, make sure your bus has a bathroom or that it stops for bathroom breaks every couple of hours before you buy tickets. There are Puno-Cuzco buses that have/do neither, and that can mean a very long 6–8 hours.

— Expreso Los Chankas, Pje Cáceres 150. One of the only companies to offer direct service from Ayacucho to Cuzco. S/55 for a 22-hr ride on a semi-cama bus. Buses at 06:30 and 21:00.

By rail. Cuzco is connected to Machu Picchu and Puno by rail. Rail service to Arequipa has been discontinued. Service is operated by PeruRail and Inca Rail.

Get around

The center of Cuzco is small enough to walk around, although you will probably need to catch a bus or taxi to the bus station, Sacsayhuamán or airport. Beware about walking around at night alone and/or drunk, robberies have often been reported.

Taxis are very common in Cuzco. Officially they cost 2-4 soles depending on distance. Call Alo Cusco Taxis. Often many drivers are not locals. Beware when using taxis at night; robberies have been reported in collusion with taxi cab drivers, at certain times radio taxis may be the safest option. The driver might also try to extort a hefty sum of money (S/15) for a short ride if you don't haggle before - which is likely if you're just arriving at night at the bus terminal and want to avoid the hordes of touts. Just pay S/5 and leave it at that.

Do not get in any taxis which already have a passenger. Do not get in a street taxi by night: order one by telephone.

If you are staying in Cuzco for a long time, the combis are a cheap and reliable form of transportation. These are the Volkswagen vans and small buses with names like Imperial, Batman, or Zorro. It costs about S/0.60 to ride them. If you are unsure if a combi will take you where you want to go, just ask. They will call out the stops as they go and if you want to get off, you just yell "Baja!", as in, "I want to get off!" They run until 22:00. But if you are a fan of lots of personal space, this may not be the best option for you, as they tend to be quite full. Carry your backpack in front of you.

For large groups, a tourist bus can be very convenient to get to places like Pisac and Ollantaytambo. Check with one of the many local travel agencies.

What to See in Cuzco

• Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo. In the Municipal Palace at Plaza Regocijo, this museum has exhibitions of contemporary art. Admission with the boleto turistico.

• Museo Historico Regional. In the home of the Inca historian Garcilaso de la Vega, this museum has many paintings from the 17th and 18th century.

• Machu Picchu Museum (Museo Machu Picchu, Casa Concha), 320 Santa Catalina Ancha. M-Sa 9AM-5PM. The largest collection of Machu Picchu artifacts in the world. These artifacts were collected by Yale University researcher Hiram Bingham beginning in 1912 and returned to Peru in 2011. The museum is housed in a late 18th century house. Foreigners S/20, international students and Peruvians with ID S/10, Peruvian students S/5.

• Museo del Centro de Textiles Tradicionales de Cusco, Av Sol. No. 603. A beautiful (and free) museum inside El Centro's textile store featuring a gallery containing displays of traditional Quechuan and Andean textiles. The museum explains the historical significance of textiles and the techniques by which they are made. A must-see, and visitors can buy the traditional textiles as they come in. A large majority of the money goes to the women who produce them, and the textiles are of much higher quality than the synthetic and machine-woven textiles found throughout the city.

• Museo del Sitio del Qoricancha, Av Sol. With information about the different pre-Columbian cultures and fragments of ceramics and textiles of the Inca culture. A very small museum, the showcase room includes three mummies and skulls modified by the Incas with holes or sloped foreheads.

• Museo de Arte Popular (in the basement of the OFEC office). Displays a collection of popular art.

• Galleries; the stunning scenery of the Cuzco area are often very well depicted by local artists. It is possible to find cheap prints that are of surprisingly good quality if you're prepared to shop around.

• Santa Catalina Convent. A collection of religious art. Admission with the boleto turistico.

• Qoricancha (The Sun Temple), 4 blocks from Plaza de Armas on Av. El Sol. The central site of worship for the Incas. It was severely devastated by the conquistadores who built their Christian church, Santo Domingo, on top of the ruins. Yet most of the bottom part of the temple is fairly well preserved and makes the site worth several hours of your time. The site is one of the best in Cuzco, or Qosqo in the Quechua language, containing both Catholic and Inca heritage with stunning views of the surrounding area.

Looking at the outside from Avenida del Sol, you get a perfect view of the church standing on the temple and you see the differences of the Inca and the Spanish way of building. Qoricancha also is the starting point of the yearly processions at Inti Raymi, the Sun Festival, in the remembrance of the Inca tradition of celebrating the winter solstice. This procession then moves all the way up to Saxayhuamán. In order to understand, especially the remarkable remains in the Inca section, a guided tour is advisable. S/15.

• ChocoMuseo, Calle Garcilaso 210, +51 84 24 47 65. 11:00-19:00. A shop ("museum") explaining the history of cacao (free) and offering chocolate workshops (not free) as well as cacao farm tours (not free). Different recipes from around the world are available all made with chocolate from the factory inside the cacao and chocolate museum. Great artisanal and organically sourced hot chocolate. Free.

• Museo Inka, Cuesta del Almirante 103, +51 84 237380. M–F 08:00–18:00, Sa 09:00–16:00. Extensive museum of pre-Inca, Inca, and colonial artifacts. Labels in English and Spanish, though the descriptions in English are sometimes pretty different from the ones in Spanish. S/10.

• The stone walls of the city are Inca, particularly near the Plaza de Armas. Unlike the colonial walls, they typically have stones with very straight lines and no mortar.

• Piedra de los doce ángulos (Twelve-angle stone), Hatun Rumiyoc. A large stone in one wall has 12 sides and 12 angles. This one has become almost a symbol of Cusco and is a striking example of the precision of Inca architecture and stonework.

• Monumento Pachacuteq. Down Av. Sol, is a statue of the Inca warrior King Pachacuteq. The statue is placed on a cylindrical base and the total monument is over 22 m high. The cylindrical base can be climbed, but views are disappointing because the monument is in a lower part of town. Admission with the boleto turistico.

• Cusco Cathedral (Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin). The biggest church in Cuzco, in front of Plaza de Armas. As a tourist the entrance is S/25. If you go in a "misa" (mass) between 06:30-09:00, it is free. S/25.

• Palacio Inka del Kusikancha (Dirección Desconcentrada de Cultura de Cusco), Calle Maruri 324. M–F 07:15–13:00, 14:00–16:00. The ruins of an Inca palace, the home of 15th-century Inca emperor Pachakuti Inka Yupanki, which you can walk around in. The Inca and colonial stonework and architecture is interesting. No admission fee, but the attendant who lets you in and shows you where to go expects a S/5 tip.

What to Do in Cuzco

• Walk around the Plaza de Armas; the square has churches, shops, restaurants and bars backing on to it and is a great place to spend an afternoon.

• Get a massage. You will invariably be propositioned by young ladies handing out flyers advertising massages, especially near the Plaza de Armas. These are legit, only cost S/15-20 for 1 hour, but are not done by trained masseuses. Still, for the price it can't be beat.

• Plaza de San Francisco. Which is a few blocks southwest of the center, and is a great place to visit one of Cuzco's many great coffee shops. Next to the Plaza is the main market, which is fairly traditional and is a worthwhile visit. The market has a mix of stalls selling food and other household items as well as clothing and souvenirs.

• Play Sapo, a traditional bar game played in chicharias all over Peru. The game involves throwing small coins, called fichas, at a table with a bronze sapo (toad) attached. You get points for making it into holes on the table, and a ton of points for making it into the sapo's mouth. Best played while drinking chicha (corn beer) at a local dive. Ask old men to show you the correct throwing form, as it's difficult to master.

• Talk to local store owners, curators, waitresses and bartenders. They typically know a little English if your Spanish is not good, and are generally happy to share interesting information about the city not found in guidebooks. This is also a great way to find the best places to try cuy, alpaca, and chicha.

• Once you are accustomed to the altitude, go for a jog. It's a good way to explore. Head east or south of the plaza for the safest places. If you're a woman out exercising, you may get a few cat calls, as this is common in much of Latin America.

• Take a Salsa class, or three. Salseros Cusco is a fabulous little salsa school offering private and group classes at minimal price in two central locations. Ask for Franshesco Efernetti if you want private classes.

• Plan trekking or other excursions in the area. The wealth of agencies and tour companies make Cuzco a good place to gather information and compare prices.

• Ladies in traditional clothing carrying baby alpacas will come up to you and ask if you want a photo. They will charge you S/5 for this. They might charge double if you take a picture with more than one lady. Beware, some of the supposed baby alpacas are actually baby goats or sheep.

• Day trips from Cuzco. Most day trips from Cuzco follow the following format: between 07:00 and 09:00, you are picked up from your hotel or you meet with your group in a public plaza very near to Plaza de Armas, or at the front door of the agency with which you booked the tour. Then you drive for 1–2 hours to your destination.

The day ends back where it started, at 15:00-16:00. In practice this means that you can do only one day trip per day and that it will most likely occur during the beginning part of the day. An exception to this is the day tour of Cuzco which starts later, around 13:00. For all these trips, ask in your hotel if you want them to call travel agencies.

• Day Trip City Tour or the Four Archaeological Ruins Tour bus around S/25 (Sacsayhuamán, Qenko, Pukapukara and Tambomachay) from 13:00 to 19:00. Alternatively, a local combi (bus) goes between the city and the four sites and costs S/1 to ride. Look for the bus that says "Huerto".

• Sacsayhuamán. The closest and largest of these ruins is the amazing Sacsayhuamán, the ruins of an Inca fortress high above Cuzco. It is a steep climb from the Plaza de Armas up Plateros street which changes to Saphi. Look for the long staircase on the right, follow the paved curvy road up to the next cobblestone pedestrian path and follow this climb past the first closed control point to the second control. No need to take a cab if you can handle it. Be careful, as robberies have been reported in mornings and evenings.

There is a charge to explore the ruins at the second control or present your boleto turistico. Those on a budget can get a sense of the ruins without paying by walking up the hill and up to the entrance. You can then walk to the adjacent hill with the big Jesus on it and look down on the city. The sheer size of the stones that were moved and the importance of the battle there make it worth entrance fee.

Even though only 20% of the fortress remains, the ruins are huge—budget at least two hours for exploring them. They include a dark tunnel you can walk through and a sloped rock that kids love to use as a slide. Read up on the battle beforehand as the guides don't discuss it. Also, a view of the circular base of the former tower as shown in many of the photos is not possible due to the protective ropes.

• Qenko (Q'enqo). The second site up the road from Sacsayhuamán. Take the combi shared buses up the hill for S/1 or take a walk of about 0.5–1 km up a gradual incline to visit the site. Its name means "Zig-Zag" in Quechua, and probably refers to the Zig-Zag channels carved into a rock.

Explore the pass through cave and view the altar on which llamas were sacrificed. The large erect stone shown on the boleto turistico is a solar calendar. On each side of the stone is a square wall two stones high. Each stone is representative of a number of days, the total is the total days in the year. Opposite the stone are the familiar windows in which mummies and human remains were discovered. Adjacent to the site is the smaller archeological site Q'enqo Chico. Accessible with the boleto turistico.

• Pukapukara (red fort). Named after the red hue of the hillsides nearby. The third site along the route, even heartier walkers will find the walk a bit long and a bit steep despite the paved and well traveled road. However, the views along the walk are great and small mud brick bars are intermittent between the sites. Hire a taxi or take a combi shared bus up from Qenko for S/1 to save time and energy. A larger site than Q'enqo, the guides have more to say about this site. It was likely a checkpoint or military control. Offerings of coca leaves among other things were received here. Accessible with the boleto turistico.

• Tambomachay. The most distant ruin on the route from Cuzco. It is a small site with an ornamental fountain whose source is unknown as reportedly archaeologists lack the tools necessary to determine the source without damaging the site. Likely it is an underground spring. In several Incan sites such as Ollentaytambo water sources were covered or underground to protect the water supply from poisoning. Accessible with the boleto turistico. Bathrooms are free with the boleto. Take a combi all the way back to Plaza de las Armas in Cuzco for 1 sole.

• Guides and tours to all four sites in one day. If interested, pay/negotiate for a guide at the second control at Sacsayhuamán to tour you through all four sites. Ask the guard at the ticket control which guides have been through the government training. Expect between S/60-80 depending upon the season which is S/15-20 per site. Allow 4-5 hr for the trip when taking the combis (shared buses). Pack a snack although water is available along the way.

Bathrooms (clean and well maintained) are only available at the final site Tambomachay. A boleto turisitico is recommended as control points exist at three of the four sites and are carefully monitored.

• Day Trip Sacred Valley (Pisaq, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero) tour bus around S/35 from 08:00 to 19:00. Ollantaytambo is the most impressive ruins (after Machu Picchu, of course), it's a must see. There is lots of touristy stuff to buy, you can bargain, but the prices won't go down much.

• Day Trip Chinchero, Moray and the Salineras de Maras tour bus around S/35 (plus S/10 the entrance of Salinas) from 08:00 to 15:00.

Moray was the agricultural laboratory of the Incas. Several concentric circles up to 150 m deep caused temperature changes of between 2-4°C. Seeds were developed here and spread throughout the empire. 67.5 km (42 mi) from Cuzco. Accessible with the boleto turistico. On the same trip you should visit the Salineras de Maras, terraced salt ponds and also Chinchero.

The Chinchero market is on Sundays and finishes early in the afternoon. Take the Cuzco-Chinchero-Urubamba bus from Av. Grau 525. Get off at Chinchero first to catch the market then head on to Moray and the Salineras afterwards.

• Day Trip Valle Sur (Tipon and Pikillacta) tour bus around S/35 (plus S/10 the entrance of Salinas) from 08:00 to 15:00.

Pikillacta is a little further from Cuzco than Tipon. Tipon has nice terraces, water channels and long staircases its believed to be a part of the Incan royal estate. Here sits the largest irrigation system built by the incas (much of it still functioning) as well as an Incan cemetery. 22.5 km (14 mi) from Cuzco. Both sites accessible with the boleto turistico. Bus Av. De La Cultura 1320, Cuzco to Urcos (Tipon-Pikillacta-Andahuaylilas).

Cuzco and its vicinity have many other smaller and less popular but still interesting Inca ruins, ranging from reasonably well-known (Amaru Markawasi/Templo de la Luna) to very obscure and difficult to find (Chuspiyoq).

• Cochahuasi Animal Sanctuary. A must see, one-of-a-kind rehabilitation center started by a family of biologists, which provides shelter to animals injured or victimized by poaching. It's a happy place where animals get better and those able are re-released. Condors, llamas, alpacas, vicunas, macaws, pumas, an unusual furless Peruvian dog, local deer, all very friendly.

This is the best place to see pumas, condors and vicunas up close. This is on the road from Cuzco to Pisaq. You can get there by motorcycle or there is usually person working for this refugee at corner of Plaza de Armas and Calle del Medio, which will organize transport for you in refugee's van for S/20 per person.

• Whitewater rafting, but not in the Sacred Valley of the Incas where the water is very polluted and the rapids are relatively tame. Instead head upstream to the Chuqicahuana or Cusipata sections of the Rio Urubamba/Vilcanota where the water is much cleaner and the rapids are excellent fun up to class 5 depending on what time of year you are traveling.

• Inflatable canoeing. On the Piñi Pampa section of the Rio Urubamba you can paddle your own canoe, fun but not frantic class 1 and 2 rapids.

• Rio Apurimac-rafting. Try and raft the 3 or 4 day Rio Apurimac - the true source of the Amazon and one of the top ten rafting rivers in the world. Class 3 - 5 all in the most amazing 3,000-m deep canyon. Go with the experts as accidents have occurred and in Peru you pay for what you get, so saving on the costs may seriously reduce the quality and the safety of your trip.

• Rent a motorcycle. There are several shops on Calle Plateros, just north of Plaza de Armas, that rent motorcycles for the day. You do not even need a motorcycle license, simply any kind of driving license from your home country. Prices are typically US$40/day which includes two helmets, gloves, and jacket. Sacred Valley Moto Tours, at Calle Plateros #399 (corner of Siete Cuartones), has new bikes in good condition.

A loop of the Sacred Valley, taking in the market at Pisac, lunch in Urubamba, and several Incan sites, can easily be done in one afternoon. The drive from Cuzco to Pisaq is a string of gorgeous switchbacks - and a great way to see the four Inca sites above Cuzco, the aminal sanctuary, and Pisaq on the same day on your own schedule.

• Downhill Mountain Bike Tours are available either across the Chincheros plains, past Inca ruins and down through the spectacular Maras Salineras or the 75 km downhill from Abra Malaga to Santa Maria and onto the totally awesome hot springs of Santa Teresa (and easy and cheap access to Machu Picchu from here too). Again go with the experts as there are a lot of cheap bikes out there totally not up to the job.

• Go paragliding over the Sacred Valley. The scenery is gorgeous.

• Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca). A challenging early-morning, high-altitude hike to a beautiful multicolored mountain.

Buy

• Mercado San Pedro ([San Pedro Market]) (1 block west of Plaza San Francisco. It's on the block bounded between Calle Hospital & Calle Nueva and Tupac Amaru and Cascaparo just east of the train station for Machu Picchu). The largest market close to the center. Though it's becoming more tourist-oriented it still has plenty of genuine local colour, a nice change from Plaza de Armas. You can find all manner of fruits, vegetables, cheeses, chocolates, honey, meats, household items, clothing, gifts, fresh fruit juices, and even tailors to repair your clothes while you wait. Watch your belongings.

• Casa Ecologica, 393 Triunfo, +51-84-25-5646. Good for fair-trade textiles.

• T'Ankar Gallery, 121 Calle Palacio, +51-84-22-8936. Good for well-made but pricey indigenous weavings and pottery.

• Mercado de San Blas, a lovely place to enjoy a delicious breakfast before starting a journey.

• Artisan Market (Mercado Artesanal) (intersection of Avenida del Sol and Tullumayo). If you don't want to go so far away, but still want touristy stuff, go to the big red building near the fountain. Also try the main market by Plaza San Francisco. This market is almost exclusively tourist-oriented goods. There are a few restaurants inside as well.

• Pisac, a town outside Cuzco, has a very big market. It is about 30 minutes from Cuzco by bus. The bus station is on Tullumayo street a couple blocks from Limacpampas. The fare is very cheap, and you can see the Incan ruins at Pisac.

• Sacred Valley, (Valle Sagrado), includes the towns/ruins of Chinchero, Ollantaytambo and Pisac. There is lots of touristy stuff to buy, you can bargain, but the prices won´t go down much.

• Centro Comercial El Molino, Urbanizacion Ttio. Another market, you have to take a taxi and it costs S/2 to get there. In this market you can buy pirated merchandise including DVDs and CDs. A good quality copy DVD is S/3.

• The indigenous women at El Centro Bartolome de Las Casas have a store in which they sell homemade handicrafts and weavings. You can often watch them work, though they often don't speak Spanish, and rarely speak a word of English. It's a few blocks from the plaza on Avenida Tullumayu.

The further away you get from the main square, the cheaper things become. In the San-Pedro market where a glass of combination juices starts at S/3, and they give you a couple of refills. Don't go too far from the main square at night though, it can be dangerous.

Alpaca sweaters are not like they used to be. The only good ones are in upmarket shops. The best places to buy the cheap (i.e. alpaca-synthetic blend) sweaters are Arequipa and Cuzco but if you know where to look, you can find them at a good price in Lima as well at certain markets. Make sure you come to Cuzco with room in your suitcase, you will need it.

In Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, prices can be double what they are in Cuzco.

Eat

The Cuzco area has some extremely good international food with tasty options for all budgets. Be sure to try an alpaca steak (don't forget a llama/alpaca is normally kept and used for its wool - so only old animals will be slaughtered). You can get alpaca pizza as well.

The soups are amazing. Try sopa de zapallo, a type of pumpkin soup.

If you are looking for traditional Peruvian food try lomo saltado (beef tips stir-fried with tomatoes, onions, and spices, over a bed of French fries and rice), aji de gallina (chicken in a very good yellow pepper sauce with olives and hard-boiled eggs), or papa rellena (stuffed potato with beef, olives, hard-boiled egg, vegetables, and spices).

Cuy (guinea pig) is the absolute traditional holiday food of the region. You can buy a whole cooked cuy in many of the restaurants around Plaza de Armas. In 2018 cuy cost S/60-70 at all these places. There are also dedicated 'cuyerias' that serve much cheaper cuy.

Chifa is the Peruvian version of Chinese food. The neighborhood of Wanchaq has many Chifa restaurants.

As far as drinks, try Inca Kola, a bubble gum/tutti-frutti-flavored yellow soda. This drink outsells Coca-Cola in Peru (which is why it was bought out by Coca-Cola in 1999). Also, chicha morada is a Peruvian specialty. It's a spiced non-alcoholic drink made out of purple corn.

When leaving Cuzco, there is a place called Boing Appetit (in front of the airport, just if you want to have breakfast or a sandwich before take the plane to Lima) its the only place that provides a free internet connection in front of the airport.

• Los Angeles (close to Ukuku's and near the Plaza de ArmasIf). For late night food after clubbing, a very good fast food-type restaurant.

Budget

• Ajjla Wasi, Sta Catalina Angosta (just off the Plaza de Armas). Traditional 3-course meals with a glass of chicha for S/7 and a comfortable upstairs setting. It is frequented by a mix of locals and tourists.

• Chifa Status, Av. La Cultura (close to El Mega supermarket). Good quality Chifa. Dishes for S/2-3.

• El Balcon. Soup, main course, and desert (no drink) for S/10. If you're looking for good quality food for not a lot of money, this is the place to go.

• El Cholandes, Choquechaca 188b. Dutch-owned and -run bar and restaurant, with typical Dutch food such as 'patatje oorlog' and 'bitterballen' (both for S/8 each, May 2012) and also other choices including local specialties.

• El Encuentro. Reasonably priced vegetarian restaurant with huge portions. The S/8 dinner and includes soup, main course & mate. Free salads with lunch. They also do soy meat very well. There are two of these restaurants but the one in Calle Leon near Plaza de Armas is at least S/1 cheaper for exactly the same menu.

• El Fogon, Plateros 365 (Just off of Plaza de Armas, top floor), +51 84 233596. Nothing fancy but great cheap food: for S/10 you get a meal deal that includes a plate from the salad bar, a selection of soup, a selection of main dish, a dessert and a beverage. Or splurge with their more expensive menu offer for S/20.

• El Mercado (in front of the train station). A roofed market where they sell delicious local bread, herbs, juices, souvenirs, DVDs and other items. If you want something truly more local, very cheap, and are willing to take risks of not the best methods of cleaning dishes, then head over here. At the end of the market are the food stands, where they serve local food. For S/2 you can get soup, an entree, and juice.

• Prasada, Qanchipata 269 (sit-down restaurant; lunch & dinner) & Choquechaca 152 (alley-way; lunch) (about half a block from Jack's Cafe, a bit hard to find in a small alley walkway, and is only marked by a small blackboard outside listing the daily specials). Cute local vegetarian friendly spot. For S/5 you can get plates like "falafel tacos" and "Mexican veggi burger". Also, they have lassies (a yogurt drink from India), and tasty desserts for a few soles. At the sit-down restaurant they do a daily menu (drink, soup and plate) for S/8. US$3.50.

• Victor Victoria, Calle Tsesequocha (just off Calle Tigre). Friendly service. Great salad bar buffet included in all main dishes. Gorgeous garlic trout with rice or potatoes for S/10 (including the salad bar buffet and lovely fresh bread) but only for lunch. Great value breakfasts. Regular glasses of freshly squeezed juice for S/6. Also they have a proper espresso machine for good coffee in the morning.

Mid-range

• Bagdad Cafe (left of the cathedral). This small restaurant seems to produce everything themselves. Local food is extremely good, in the evening small performance groups enter the restaurant and give excellent performances. The prices are mid-range, but it is sure worth it. The daily menu lunch special is more like a snack.

• Jack's Cafe, Choquechaca 188 (on the corner and near the South American Explorers clubhouse), +51 84 254606. This is a great place to get a big breakfast complete with eggs, bacon, avocado, toast and fantastic thick shakes. Very popular with tourists. Try the homemade lemonades.

• Maikhani, Av Del Sol (second floor in little mall before you get to Plaza de Armas). Great Indian food served as an all-you-can-eat buffet for S/15. You get mineral water, salad, chutneys and fruit included but it is extra for chapatis, beers or similar. S/15.

Splurge

• Emperador, 172 Granada. They have a 13-page menu with all sorts of foods from around the world. Try the pisco sour tall.

• Encantasq'a, Choquechaca 131. A nice place to have a break with coffee and a snack. Especially the chocolate cupcakes are delicious and make up for half a lunch. They also have fresh cakes, quiches and juices.

• Green Point, 235 Calle Carmen Bajo, +51 84 431146, e-mail: greenpoint.vegan@outlook.com. Vegan restaurant popular with tourists, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Various international dishes, and some Peruvian food. Gluten-free and raw options. Menu in English and Spanish. Wifi available. S/35–50.

• Inka Grill (On the Plaza de Armas). Well-known and frequented by tourists but not a trap. Excellent food. Good place to try cuy (guinea pig). Try the appetizer tiradito de trucha. Alpaca also on the menu.

• Restaurant Inkazuela, Plazoleta Nazarenas N 167 (8 m from Hotel Monasterio (2nd floor)), +51 84 234924, e-mail: restaurantinkazuela@gmail.com. This place specializes in stews. Well chosen music and a fireplace create a romantic atmosphere. Appetizers around S/15, mains around S/28.

• Tunupa, 233 Portal Confituría, +51-84-25-2936. They offer some of the best guinea pig or alpaca dishes from the local Novo Andino cuisine as well as other local specialities. Lunch entrées US$9–17.

Supermarkets

There are several supermarkets close to el centro:

• Gato's Market, Plaza de Armas (across from Norton Rat's Pub in Portal Belén 115). Small and a bit pricey.

• Mega, has several locations: the most central is on Matara, just north of Ayacucho. A larger one is at Plaza Tupac Amaru, on Matará 271 at Av Garcilaso. They have a home-furnishings store next door as well.

• Maxi, Ave Grau (just west of Matara).

For larger supermarkets, take a combi or taxi a couple of kilometres south on Av. La Cultura.

• D'Dinos Market, Av La Cultura 2003. Open 24 hr, takes credit cards, offers delivery.

• La Canasta, Av La Cultura 2000-block. Well-stocked.

• Mega (a few blocks further past La Canasta, on the same side of Av. La Cultura). This is the largest supermarket in Cuzco.

Drink

There are many clubs and pubs in Cuzco. Most are open until 03:00 at the earliest and 17:00 at the latest.

• Mama Africa. On 3 levels. Snacks, a cafe on the rooftop, restaurant with a good cheap menu, 2 discos, the latest movies on DVD. Some of the decorations and paintings are by the owner/artist. Lots of people, good music, good atmosphere and free salsa lessons. Salsa starts at about 21:00 and goes until about 23:00. On the corner of Plaza de Armas.

• El Muki. Across the street from Mama America. A place with more locals than the Plaza de Armas. It has a unique cave-like interior and is one of the city's oldest discos.

• Caos, La Avenida de la Cultura (next to the post office). If you want to get away from the tourist crowd for a while and dance the night away with the locals, head to this very nice large club with a great mix of music and exotic drinks.

• Paddy's Irish Pub, 124 Calle Triunfo (on the eastern corner of Plaza de Armas). The night-brother of Jack's Cafe. Not exactly traditional Peruvian fare, but an excellent atmosphere among fellow travellers in a cozy upstairs pub setting. Purportedly the highest 'Irish-owned' pub in the world at 3,400 m, it offers a good selection of pub food (think cottage pie, casseroles, mash and gravy), local and international drinks (even had cider and Guinness), and a useful "No Gracias" T-shirt for sale.

• Garabato's. If you want to dance meringue and salsa all night, head here. Features a live salsa and meringue band most nights. This is where the salsa crowd goes after 22:00-23:00 when the other clubs stop playing salsa.

• The Tea Room, Avenida Santa Teresa 364, 2. Nd floor. New to Cuzco is another chill place chock full of wall, furniture, and sculpture art, not to mention creative cocktails and funky chilled out music. Bring a group to chill and converse and enjoy their creative tea mixes and pastries. Free wifi. 12:00-00:00.

• Le Nomade. 2nd floor, cnr of Choquechaca and Cuesta San Blas 207. Bar/lounge with live music every night. Reggae, Latin, cubano, afro-Jazz, blues, bossa, funk, soul, rock and española. No cover. Friendly staff.

• The Lost City Bar (turn left out of gringo alley, basement bar on the left before Calle Tigre). nights. Small basement bar one block from the plaza de Armas. Very friendly place to watch American football or basketball and chat to the regulars and owners. Great pizzas and paninis, cheap happy hour cocktails and beers. A real bar for locals, expats and Cusqueños.

Sleep

Loads and loads of options in Cuzco to suit all budgets. Most won't need to be booked beforehand. San Blas, many new hospedajes/hostales have opened in this area 4 blocks up the hill from the Plaza de Armas.

Budget

• Hospedaje Amanecer, 216 Choquechaca, San Blas District (From the Plaza de Armas, head towards Plazoleta de las Nazarenas, walk down 7 Culebras, turn left and its on the right hand side, its white with a blue door). A quiet place, private bathrooms, TV, wi-fi, hot shower. Twins S/40.

• Hostal El Arcano, Carmen Alto 288, San Blas District (Go up Carmen Alto and it's almost all the way at the end (the road terminates at a T)), +51 84 232703. A great little hostal overlooking the city with a variety of comfortable, affordable rooms. ~S/30.

• Pisko and Soul, Carmen Alto, San Blas District (Go up Carmen Alto and it's all the way at the end (the road terminates at a T)). Really nice for a hostel. Very friendly staff. Hot water, continental breakfast, free wifi. ~S/35.

• Hospedaje El Artesano de San Blas, Suytucato 790 (straight up from the Plaza San Blas), +51 84 263-968. Well-kept place with good-value rooms around a colonial courtyard, hot water, common kitchen, helpful staff, wifi. S/20-40.

• Taita Home, Suytucato 759 (straight up from the Plaza San Blas, there is no sign on the door). Dormitory beds in a freaky, chilled out and friendly atmosphere with a sunny garden, fireplace, outdoor kitchen and gas hot water. S/15.

• Hostels Cusco Samanapata, Siete Angelinos (Las Blas), e-mail: hostalsamanapata@gmail.com. Hostel in San Blas area of Cuzco, about 3 blocks from Plaza de Armas. Free wifi, 2 free computers, free breakfast, all rooms have cable TV. Very friendly staff, rooms cleaned daily. Much cheaper than similar places. from S/25 per person.

• La Casa de mi Abuelo, Nueva Alta 785. A new guesthouse near the Plaza de San Francisco run by a kind local lady that offers extremely clean and comfortable rooms, ensuite bathrooms, cable TV, and excellent breakfasts. 7-minute walk to Plaza de Armas US$20 double, US$13 single.

• Pirwa Hostel Colonial Cusco (Pirwa backpackers hostel), San Francisco #360 (San Francisco square), +51 84 244315, e-mail: info@pirwahostelsperu.com. 24-hr hot showers, movies, in-house bar, pool (game) table, attentive staff, free breakfast, free internet, pick up service, and comfortable beds. From US$7.50/person.

• Pirwa Bed&Breakfast Posada del Corregidor Cusco, Portal De Panes #151 (Main square), +51 84 244315, e-mail: info@pirwahostelsperu.com. Movies, safe and relaxed environment, traditional meals, good view of the main plaza. From US$10/person.

• Yamanyá Backpackers, San Andres 260, +51 84 224473. In a beautiful and funkily decorated colonial home with two patios and a back garden (complete with giant heated jacuzzi for 20 people), good beds with feather duvets. Hot showers, free wifi and internet, cable TV, DVDs, big screen high-def LCD, free breakfast, big guest kitchen, bar with great activities and weekly pub crawl. Good staff and helpful tour agency. Two blocks from the Plaza de Armas.

• Casa de la Gringa, +51 842 41168. Each room has a different theme and features original international art. Comfortable and colorful. Free wifi, cable TV and DVDs, common rooms, a beautiful garden, and good staff.

• Hogar Clinica San Juan de Dios, Avenida Manzanares 264 (Urbanizacion Manuel Prado), +51 842 40135. Private and double rooms and windows that look onto the mountain range. Good service and daily egg breakfast. Non-profit hostel supporting the children's hospital next door.

• Casa de la Gringa 2, Carmen Bajo 226, +51 842 54387. Small friendly hostel is the little sister to Casa de la Gringa, and run by the same helpful owners. Long-term prices available. Can organize tours and special trips to the mountains. Rooms a bit small, wifi, no TVs. S/40 includes breakfast.

• Flying Dog Hostel, Choquechaca 469, +51 842 53997. Great hostel with a wide range of rooms. Free wifi (in lobby, not room), breakfast, lockers, and coffee and tea all day. Check out their bar, and ask them to arrange tours for you. Friendly staff.

• The WalkOn Inn, Calle Suecia 504, +51 842 35065, e-mail: cusco@walkoninn.com. Has very beautiful rooms with private or shared bathroom and two small dorms. The place has a nice patio with a fireplace, it's completely clean and there is another sitting room with TV and cable and a computer with free internet on which to burn your own CDs or DVDs. Free wifi, laundry service, breakfast available. 2 blocks from the main square, close to the centre of 'fiesta'. Pressurized hot water available around the clock.

• Hostel Sweet Daybreak, Calle Pasñapakana 133, Mirador de San Blas, +51 842 225776. Panoramic views, showers with hot gas-heated water 24 hr, cable TV, wifi, laundry, cafeteria, free tourist information, a lovely garden, dormitories, private rooms with or without bathroom. Comfortable and safe, a 2-minute walk from the Plazoleta San Blas, 4 blocks from the Plaza de Armas (Main Square).

• The Grasshopper Hostel, Calle interior 3, Hospital 842, +51 842 242125, e-mail: frontdesk@thegrasshopperhostel.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. A relaxed backpacker hostel with dorms, private rooms and a super friendly staff.

• VIP House Garden Hostel, Calle Tambo de Montero 219. One of the cheaper hostels in the city, but surprisingly nice. Wifi, free breakfast, inexpensive dinners available some days, bonfires in the evening, and a view of the city from the upstairs kitchen/dining room. (The affiliated VIP House Hostel is around the corner.)

Mid-range

• Piccola Locanda, Resbalosa 520, e-mail: info@piccolalocanda.com. Very quiet, beautiful rooms, clean and cozy, 2 block from plaza de Armas. The Locanda contributes to the financing of 3 projects dedicated to children and has an internet cafè and a travel agency. Quiet, rooms are decent sized and have private or shared bath facilities and TV. US$30–55/room depending on type of beds, occupancy and season.

• Amaru Hostal I, Cuesta San Blas 541, e-mail: amaruhostal@speedy.com.pe. Quiet and cheap option about 3 blocks from the Plaza de Armas. Rooms are decent sized and have private or shared bath facilities and TV. US$30–55/room depending on type of beds, occupancy and season.

• Amaru Hostal II, Chihuampata 642, e-mail: amaruhostal2@speedy.com.pe. Quiet and cheap option about 2-3 blocks from the Plaza de Armas. US$30–48/room depending on type of beds, occupancy and season.

• Hotel El Balcon, 222 Tambo de Montero. Awesome interior design, delicious breakfast and moderate prices. From Plaza de Armas, follow Plateros a block and a half or so. The hotel is in a lane up the hill. About half a block up, look for the door on the right. The sign is above the door, so you may not see it unless you walk on the opposite side of the lane.

• Hostal Frankenstein, San Juan de Dios 260 (2 blocks from main square). Clean, friendly and helpful German chef, a lazy iguana, creative interior, cosy atmosphere. Double costs around US$20 (the one on top is quiet and offer view to Ausangate mountain).

• Hoteles Garcilaso, Calle Garcilaso 233-285, +51 842 233031. There are two of them on the same block. Good location on the block between the Plaza San Francisco and the other small plaza that is one block from the Plaza de Armas. As in a lot of places, the inside rooms may be the way to go because they are quiet at night. Double US$75/night, however it is worth more like US$30–45/night.

• Orquidea Real, Calle Alabado 520, e-mail: orquidea@orquidea.net. The colonial building has original Inca walls and exposed wood beams, and the rustic accommodations are simply decorated in a cozy mountain lodge aesthetic. All rooms are oriented toward Cuzco below, offering panoramic views.

• Madison Hostel, Av Pardo 721, +51 842 25995. Friendly, family-run hotel on a quiet, safe street four blocks from the Plaza. Rooms include cable TV, big buffet breakfast, Wi-Fi, and views. Children under 12 stay for free.

• Ninos Hotel, Calle Meloc 442, +51 84231424. Hotel with charitable purposes: all procedures from room booking and in-house restaurant go towards running an association that gives support to local unprivileged children.

• Hostal Rumi Punku, Calle Choquechaca 339. Rumi Punku means "stone door" in Quechua: the entrance to the hotel leads through an ancient stone door, obviously of Inca design. The doorway is all that has survived of an Inca palace. The door is considered a historic item by the city of Cuzco.

• Casa San Blas Boutique Inn, Tucoyeros 566, San Blas. In the historic artisan's quarter 2½ blocks from the main square in a neighborhood of narrow, cobbled streets and whitewashed colonial-era houses. Friendly staff. US$110 a night for a single.

• Koyllur Hostal, Calle Carment Bajo 186, San Blas. Richly decorated and a nice place to splash out for a few nights. Big buffet breakfasts. Ask for room at top floor in the front - has skylights, lots of room, nice furnishings. CablebTV, wifi. US$20 in off-season.

Splurge

• Tierra Viva Cusco Saphi, Saphi street. Many of the rooms on the second floor have high ceilings with white-painted wood beams visibly charming. The hotel is organized around two interior courtyards. Breakfast is included. The staff speak great English, and can help you make reservations. 2nd floor rooms are preferable. 24 hour desk so it's easy to check out for those early Inca Trail departures. Free coca tea in the lobby a great way to warm up at night.

• Libertador Palacio del Inka, 4 Bustos house. The hotel was part of the Koricancha temple and during colonial times it became property of the conqueror Francisco Pizarro.

• Hotel Royal Inka I or II (in front of the Plaza Regocijo, about 150 m from la Plaza de Armas). Royal Inka I is a renovated house while Royal Inka II is more modern with a spa (jacuzzi and steam room). Breakfast available.

• Hotel Marqueses, Calle Garcilaso 256, +51 842 264249, e-mail: info@hotelmarqueses.com. The official hotel of SAS travel. Good staff and comfortable rooms. In the tourist district, 2 blocks from the Plaza des Armas.

What to Wear

• June–August. Cuzco can be very hot during the day and quite cold in the early morning and late at night. If you get cold easily, you might want to carry a hat, gloves, and several layers in your day pack to use at night, that you can peel off during the day for complete summer mode

• Shoes. Cuzco is somewhat dusty and you will be very happy wearing a boot and sneaker mix such as Keens, rather than for example flip flops.

Stay safe

Law enforcement related to drugs is very severe in Peru - that is, years in prison and no pleasure.

Although Cuzco is, in general, relatively safe, as in any urban area, muggings and petty thefts do occur. Use common sense and you should be fine. Don't wander alone away from the Plaza de Armas late at night. Don't flaunt your valuables around. Be conscious of what is going on around you. Pickpocketing (especially by children) is a major problem.

New scams are being thought of all the time. For example, be wary if you are approached by people trying to sell you stuff in the streets and try to strike up a long conversation. It's possible that they are distracting you while someone else is pickpocketing you. The markets, bus station and other crowded areas are the epicentres for these activities. Often targets are distracted by some strange going on (e.g. fight or dispute) whilst another person performs the robbery.

Only take taxis that are well marked, and if you are taking a taxi alone at night, write down the number and call a friend saying, so the driver can hear, that you are coming home in taxi #... Also, try not to set yourself apart as a clueless tourist by wearing expensive or flashy clothing or revealing clothing in a particularly conservative region of Peru (the locals do not wear shorts and tank-tops around).

Watch for the feral dogs that hit the streets at night, rummaging through trash. Peruvians love dogs, and most of the time the animals are friendly. Just use common sense and project confidence and you shouldn't be bothered. If you feel threatened let the dogs see you pick up a rock off the ground, or if there are no rocks simply act like you picked one up. The dogs seem to know what this means and they'll slowly back off.

There are a number of beggars in the streets of Cuzco, most of them children. They will tell you the money is for schooling. Giving to beggars is a moral decision each individual can make. If you don't want them to follow you around, a stern 'no' will suffice.

Stay healthy

For most travellers, at 11,150 feet Cuzco is the highest point on their trip (or any trip for that matter) and altitude sickness is a big problem - you may become winded after even minor exertion (other symptoms include headache and nausea). If you've had trouble at high elevation in the past, arrive a day early to acclimate. Remember on the first day to take it slow and stay away from the bars the first night.

Most hotels offer coca tea (coca leaves are the traditional native remedy for altitude sickness) and finding products made out of coca like coca candy is easy to find in Cuzco, but their effect is doubtful. If you expect to get drug tested upon your return home, however, avoid all products with coca, drink plenty of water and look into Diamox Sequels in USA or Glaucozol in Peru (drug: acetazolamide) (available at a pharmacy) to help deal with the adjustment period.

Acetazolamide is a diurectic (so, you will be peeing every 2 hours, quite annoying). Another option (probably the best) is the famous Sorojchi pills (drugs: Acetylsalicylic Acid, Salofeno and Cafeine).

To avoid upset stomach doctors recommend that you drink only bottled water and avoid uncooked vegetables and fruits that you haven't peeled, even in hotels.

At this elevation and not far from the Equator, there's a risk for serious sunburns. According to a study Cuzco is the city with the highest average level of UV-radiation in the world. Protect your skin and eyes!

• Clinica San Josè, Av. Los Incas 1408-B, +51 84 253295. Should you get sick this is an excellent private clinic, also advised by locals, providing general and specialist assistance with all the modern medical diagnostic apparels. Usually they provide a private room with two beds, one for the patient and one for an accompanying person but be sure to carry a travel insurance with you otherwise be prepared to pay a lot of money. They'll get in contact with your insurance company to arrange things in order to have the latter paying directly the clinic on your exit. Personnel speaking English is generally available and they are prepared to assist foreigners.

• Hampi Land. A clinic on Choquechaka Street just a few blocks away from the Plaza de Armas, and about one block away from "Jack's Restaurant".

• Hotel Doctor Internacional is a service that will dispatch a doctor to your hotel room usually within 10 to 15 minutes. For a very reasonable price the doctor will come equipped with medications and provide the traveler with the proper insurance forms for reimbursement. They are available 24 hours, 7 days a week at +51 17 085586 or by cell phone +51 9953-74658, US tollfree 1-800-869-4713. English and German spoken.

Go next

• Pisac, Colorful marketplace, climb up to the expansive ruins to the religious site and cemetery behind. 32 km (20 mi) from Cuzco. Accessible with the boleto turistico.

• Ollantaytambo, Religious center that doubled as a fortress during the Spanish conquest . A great place to visit on the return from Machu Picchu or an alternative if you don't want to visit Machu Picchu. Great place to stay too. 77 km (48 mi) from Cuzco. Accessible with the boleto turistico.

• Lake Titicaca, PeruRail connects Cuzco to Juliaca and Puno, and the journey is one of the most spectacular rail journeys in the world. The journey should take 10 hr, but there are often delays. The 'scenic stop' included at La Raya is a bit of a waste of time, though it's included anyway. Prices are high, and the cheap backpacker train no longer runs this route, having been sent to the Poroy (Cuzco) - Machu Picchu line. The trip from Cuzco to Puno runs about US$220 each way now.

There are several buses that travel to Lake Titicaca, which are much cheaper and take less time than the train, while passing much of the same scenery. The more expensive buses stop at 5 or 6 interesting spots along the trip, including the "Sistine Chapel of South America".

• Machu Picchu: the atmospheric ruin perched below the Andes and above the jungle. For the best experience, walk there on the Inca Trail or one of the alternative trails. There are numerous tour companies which organise such trips, costing US$365–450 with all travel costs. There are lots of companies offering a 4-day "Jungle Trek" as an alternative to the Inca Trail, or 2-day, one-night trips for US$260-270 (Mar 2018) including hostel accommodation.

A one-way train trip (Jan-Apr, it's a bus to Ollantaytambo and train to Aguas Calientes) on Inca Rail or PeruRail starts at US$65 each way. Prices rise depending on time of day, demand and class of train. Both companies can sell you tickets to the Machu Picchu site (for a $5 surcharge), tickets for the bus from Aguas Calientes to the site ($24 round-trip). This trip takes just under 4 hours.

The trains begin and end at Poroy - you must take a bus or taxi from Cuzco to Poroy. You can also get to Machu Picchu from Cuzco in a "cheap" way, first a minibus for round trip for S/95 (May 2015) to Hidroelectrica, then walking 3 hr to Aguas Calientes or just take train for US$28 (May 2015).

• Choquequirao: like Machu Picchu a big Inca ruin area at the edge of a mountain with great view. It offers much bigger area and terraces but less housing. Not as fabulous as Machu Picchu but definitely worth a visit. Only accessible by trekking (possibility to continue to Machu Picchu). Very few visitors are brave enough to make the trek. BTW, it's cheaper.

• Puno: visiting Lake Titicaca is the perfect way to complete a journey to the Southern Andes. It is possible to travel from Cuzco taking a direct 30-minute flight, traveling by train or by road, which allows stopping at various interesting sites on the route such as Andahuaylillas, Piquillacta, Tipon, Huaro, Raqchi or Lampa as well as witnessing stunning landscapes.

• La Paz (Bolivia): there are overnight buses direct from Cuzco to La Paz that pass through Desaguadero. The duration seems to be about 15-17 hr long. Or go from Cuzco to Copacabana, Bolivia, (about 10 hr) and from there onto La Paz (about 2 hr).

• Machiguenga Center for Tropical Research: 100% indigenous owned rainforest lodge in the Amazon. Macaw clay licks. Immediately downstream from the Pongo de Mainique canyon on Rio Urubamba. It seems like you have to go through a tour operator packages include flights in and out.

There are several smaller bus terminals in Cuzco that travel to other destinations around the Sacred Valley of the Incas.

• Av. Grau 525, Cuzco—Chinchero - Urubamba.
• Calle Puputi 208, Cuzco—Pisac - Yucay - Urubamba.
• Av. Tullumayo 207, Cuzco—Pisac - Calca.
• Av. De La Cultura 1320, Cuzco—Urcos (Tipon - Piquillacta - Andahuaylilas). (Wikivoyage)

Sacsayhuamán.